dry sump compare to wet

If u r in CA, make sure the car is CA BAR legal and passes smog, unless u live in a "blue sky" county. The car is a whole lot easier to smog with the US engine. I would avoid pre-1976 Euro cars unless I knew they were Federalized appropriately. A '77 is supposed to have thermal reactors instead of cats and they are nortoriously difficult to find, let alone freekin' dangerous.

 

A one distributor wet sump is an odd combo but the single distributor is an advantage..

What country of origin would that be?

The single distributor usually indicates a Euro Dry sump but I do know of some North American cars that were converted to use single......

 

Do you have a VIN #??

Also, try to search the site as the door plates are very different Euro vs. North American..

This car should be a dry sump if Euro unless replaced at some point.....any others have thoughts on that?

Euro 308GTBs were dry sump NON CAT thru 1980.........

 

can someone post a picture of an engine that only has one distributer?

 

The RH drive 'glass car in Vegas is a wet sump single distributor, IIRC...

Do you want to send me that old bumper, Dr. Tommy?

My car was damaged at the Art Car Ball maybe I could add the thing into bill at FoH next week.....

 

Look for an afire thread in Europe, his car is a single distrib also IIRC

 

Hi, this is a single distributor but the water protection shield is in de way so the distributer is not zo good visible but this is the only picture I have from my engine.
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No that's great we can see it, and I have always thought the splash shield was a fantastic idea....

We do not get them on dual distributor engines....

 

i live in Georgia where i am exempt from the emissions crap and even i know that you have to meet emissions on anything made past 1974 in California.

my red gtb *20433* was sold from San Diego specifically because they could never get it to pass emissions. i would ask the dmv before you buy!

 

1977 is NOT exempt!

1975 and prior only.

This car must have all equipment, and it must all work properly. And it must pass the test.

The tests (I undertstand) are based on an average reading for the best and cleanest of your "type" of car being smogged. And NOT based on all cars of a particcular type.

It's highly discrimanatory, and hugely unfair. But it's the path CA has taken to get older cars off the road.

I recommend avoiding this car unless you are drop-dead CERTAIN that it will pass a stringent smog test.

Remember: These are exactly the kind of cars they want to fail!

Want my advice?

IN Calif... Buy a '75 Series I GT4 instead.

It's more rare. It's more useful. It has better performance. And it has a greater potential for appreciation.

And (for the moment) it is exempt!

 

Dry sump is better for the track and or for hard driving.
You can have oil supply issues with a wet sump during hard cornering etc.
Dry sump cars seem generally more desirable. I have just bought a dry sump for the track.
Can't help you on the price and what it's worth in the US.
Your heart will rule over your head at some point, but we don't have those stringent emmission rules in OZ.
The general rule is also that a single dizzy engine is less trouble than a dual dizzy, but thats just what I have heard. My personal experience with carbs and single dizzy is just about to start.
Nevertheless, whatever you buy don't keep it in the garage, drive it as much as you can and enjoy what you have parted all that hard earned cash for.
I had a 308GTS QV for ten years and drove it to work every day. Only let me down once in ten years. The drive to and from work was the reward for all that hard work.

 

33k miles, dry sump and a STEEL car is not worth $55k. Sorry, its just not.

If it was a glass car then you'd have something but it's steel.

The single dist. is a bonus and the shield means it's also an electronic dist. so no points/condeners.

 

>>33k miles, dry sump and a STEEL car is not worth $55k. Sorry, its just not.

Agreed 100%. 60K in receipts doesn’t quite matter…

>>The single dist. is a bonus and the shield means it's also an electronic dist. so no points/condeners.

Nope. Points should be in this car. And the presence of the shield has nothing to do with that.

 

Sorry, thought you were looking at this to buy...

 

In the seven years of ownership (all on the road, I have not tracked my GT4), I have never experienced any issues with dropped oil pressure driving through fast, severe right-hand turns (which would theoretically slosh oil away in the pan from the pump pick-up tube).

The wet-sump oil pan design is excellent with windage tray, splash plates, trap-doors, etc... As close to racing design as you can get and over-engineered for road use.

 

Hello from Germany,

at least over here in Europe prices for 308s increased a little recently.
For a really good drysump ( Euro) 308 GTB with only 50k mls. $ 55k is a realistic price. Resina ( plastic ) or steel body doesn't make that difference any more like it did some years ago.

Of course this does NOT apply to the dead examples on ebay

Best Regards

Martin

 

Hi Sean, the water shield is not only voor electronic dist. because in my single dist. are still the two contact points and condeners.

 

Are the euro 2V injected cars dry sump as well, or is it only the carbed cars?

 

only the Euro carbed GTBs. The carbed Euro GTS' are wetsump.

Best Regards from Germany

Martin

 

I don't think so!

I'm not an authority by any stretch, but like others have suggested. 1977, 33K miles, Black-Black, Steel bodied etc.. The seller is dreaming……Dream on…..

It’s a shame that Michael's (Carreaper) 308 isn't Cali legal, he's done some nice refinements to it, and the price is right!

Just my $.02

Chris.

 

if it has drysump and therefore is a Euro version, re-importing back to Europe might be interesting for the seller.
Similar thing like the Mopar-Musclecar-Situation. All good cars go back to the US, because of the crazy prices paid there whereas only a fraction of that is obtainable over here.

Best Regards

Martin