How to fix door slamming????

Don't Karate kick it closed. LOL!

 

I know, I'm just bustin your balls.

Mine does the same thing. It has to do with the spring rate in the locking mechanism, and the door seals. I haven't ever bothered to try and fix the issue with mine. I'm just careful when closing the door.

 

NO, don't call the dealer, do the job yourself man! It isn't hard.

I would start by adding some padding to the door, right where it meets the door seal. You don't need to change the locks out. I think it's the spring in the lock that is weak. I would maybe try swapping out the old spring for a new one. But, like I said I haven't really tackled this problem yet so I really can say for sure.

 

Where my ts is parked in the garage, with the nose pointed slightly uphill, I can open either door about 18", to just before it catches on the first detent, then let go of the door, and it fully closes by itself with just a pleasant "clunk". No effort at all, no slamming, no rattles.

 

Oh that's EASY! They sell you all brand new door locks, and door trim seals, then charge you up the wazoo to put it all in.

 

If your doors don't close well, there are a number of possibilities - in no particular order:

1) The door is hung crooked.
2) The striker pin is loose or misadjusted.
3) The latch is damaged or sticking.
4) The seals are damaged or loose.

On item #1, I have seen cases where people (particularly large people) tend to lean on the door when they climb in and out, and the door then hangs low in the back, and the latch doesn't line up with the striker.

First thing to check - just squat down so your eye level is even with the back of the door, then slowly push the door shut. When the door encounters the striker pin, it should move straight onto the pin. The door should not lift up or drop down. The crease lines on the door and the fender should be level, or very close to level, and faces of the door and the fender should be even, or very close to even.

Second thing, look at the striker pin on the rear shut face. Does it look like it has a groove worn into it? It shouldn't. Is it screwed on tight? Can you see any marks on the paint to indicate that the striker has moved from its original position?

What do you see?

 

Just bear in mind, if you're having to slam the door, the question isn't if the door ENDS UP aligned properly, the question is if the door is actually HANGING properly, so that the latch lines up with the pin when you close the door. The pin will pull the door into position, but that isn't how it's supposed to work if it's straight in the first place. Make sense?

 

My doors are easy to shut also.
I don't think there is any thing wrong with the doors.
I don't want it to take both hands & a shove to close the doors.
but thats me.

 

i tihnk what he is trying to explain is the door has no back spring pressure.. i have to tell everyone to "drift" my door shut, dont slam! its just the nature of the design...

 

Since the car is one state, one door is in another, and one is AWOL...I have absolutely NO problems with my doors(or should that be door?) shutting......

 

perhaps it just needs adjusting so the lock arm drops it open...none have a spring they are just big ol' swinging masses of plastic and metal.get used to it ...! but you shouldnt have to pull the door open other than using your fingers under the lip of the door handle

 

Sorry that my earlier confusion over the word "slamming" was unhelpful.

What happens when you manually work the latch like this with your finger? Can you feel spring resistance? And when you then operate the outside door button, does the latch "spring" open like it should?
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i know what you mean about it sounding like it is slamming.
when i close my doors on my 348 i almost have to "place' the door closed instead of shutting it.. they close really easily

 

Scott - OffTopic: 8.25mm was the number you were looking for last night....