boxer went snap crackle POP!

When my Dinoplex joined the dearly departed, it acted similarly. The car started fine, then once it knew I was well immersed in traffic at 7:50am, it bucked and would shut off, resume, CRACK, POP, then die (laughing). I failed to see the humor in this. Not sure if you've noticed this, but tense drive-time commuters are not terribly sympathetic to semi-stranded Ferrari ownerrs.

It would restart after a bit, tach was nuts, and I limped home twice. Fortunately, I never had to call "the truck" either.

Once I did the MSD, none of that has happened again. I did however have to install a Dual Ballast resister with my MSD to keep it from running on, so that was a $3.99 option mine required. I mounted it on an aluminum plate next to the MSD.

Car starts so quickly now, idles great, and feels like it pulls harder. All those are likely mental justifications, but the peace-of-mind is real. Have fun!

 

My carbed car, with MSD, acted the same way when it had the green corrosion crud growing on the contacts inside the distributor cap.
Zip, zero, nada for power, backfiring through the carbs, backfiring out the exhaust, and stalled a couple times.
Holly Molly, was embarrassing to say the least! And yeah, no sympathy from grinning driver all around me!
John

 

Permatune makes a line of ignition boxes using the original Marelli cases and connectors (or provide your own) with their modern electronics inside. From the outside you can't tell it is not stock.
I've been using them in two of my cars for 10+ years and have been very satisfied as the spark plugs don't foul.

They all have their own webpage at their website, here is an example of one, not sure if it is for your Boxer:
http://www.permatune.com/ignition-Ferrari-aec-103b.html

 

I'd go with MSD, they really help V12 ferrari motors

 

Those are the exact same symptoms that occured when my Dinoplex went bad too. Backfiring and stalling out, no power.

My mechanic installed a MSD 6AL unit and it was been working fine for about three years now.

 

My old Dinoplex weighed about 5 pounds, 4 of which were some long forgotten crystallized plastic material that would've taken an air chisel, sulphuric acid, and MindFreak to exhume.

I considered mounting the MSD on the top 'half' of the Dinoplex (you'll see when you get yours that it could fit that way) but instead went the "exchange" route. Dinoplex on shelf; a lovely paperweight.

You can do a search for others who hollowed out the Dinoplex or some such approach and with your attention to detail, you may be able to do same. If you do, please take photos of the removal process and please wear protective eyewear.

 

Who cares about that Dinoplex... what's the little helper beverage you've got on the right there, making you think you can get rid of 25 year old Enzoplastic?

I say, finish the beverage(s), make an aluminum plate with the right holes in it for the MSD and call it a night. We can both put our deceased Dinoplexes on ebay in 2012 for vacation money.

 

BBis use non solid wires, BBs have solid copper core, I wouldn't be concerned anyway as the warning concerns feedback to the radio
don't know concerning the wiring, one is for the tach though

concerning the AL vs A you send it to MSD and they charge $30 to modify the limiter to work for the V12, mine is an AL but has never cut out at redline so must not be programmed as well

 

MSD suggests using spiral wound plug wire, and not solid core stuff. The guy there told me solid core wire would burn out the unit.
I used spiral, BUT I think Jeff has been using solid for a long time with no problems.
John

 

Hey Newman,

Found my directions which were kindly supplied by Samsaprunoff. The diagram from Bill Badurski for a 365BB using a MSD 6A has the...

1. MSD Green to to Dinoplex #2 black (Distributor ground)
2. MSD Violet to Dinoplex #1 green (Distributor trigger)
3. White NOT USED.

Does this help?

I don't know about the solid core issue - I'm using plug wires 'as is' on mine. Again, Samprunoff said he used MSD's wires, necessitating a 8 and 6 cyl kit for correct length.

 

I agree with that logic, if any applies to this hobby (!) My car used to semi labor in starting, maybe 4 revolutions - nothing serious - then awaken lazily. Now it lights off more quickly and healthily. It pulls furiously up to near the red zone (rev limiter is set at 7grand and I've not gotten there...yet) and idles evenly.

I was told by my car's former caretaker (Vintage Motorcars, Houston) that I should have my CO re-set since that mixture has undoubtedly changed with the MSD. Will do.

Also, got fuseblocks yesterday (yahoo!) to alleviate my 3 candlepower high beams, ghostly dash lights, and super hot fuse #7 and #8 right block (rad fans, in case you haven't memorized them). It gets WAY too hot for my tastes, so in go the new blocks.

After this, I think my 'current' situation (hardy har) will have markedly improved with the MSD and blocks. We'll see.

Newman, did you 'clean up' your installation? I bought a 6-pin Deutch connector that I'll do if I can ever borrow a lift. MSD sells 'em along with the 'normal' 6 pin connectors.

Also, do you plan on 'disguising' your MSD at all? I may paint my little red box aluminum or 'anodized'.

Either way, have fun. Happy 4th!

 

I'm sorry, Newman, but you may still sound like a a tool! This can keep it to a minimum though...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-MSD-IGNITION-Electrical-Wiring-Connector-Deutch_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33689QQihZ016QQitemZ260106394357QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

MSD also sells these, but this is the model you need. (I found it on MSD's site once, and then couldn't find my way back today. Okay, I'm having "TOOL" stitched across my shirt now!)

I think the prices may be slightly higher at MSD, but I guess it's wherever you can get it fastest.

Minor warning: Deutch connectors don't go together as easily as you'd imagine, but once you 'get it' they're incredibly well engineered. Considered full waterproof, used all over racing, and most especially in rally environs.

Hope this helps!

 

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