On a carbed 308 (US or euro) there is no "low engine temp light" (that's only used on some of the injected 308) -- what OM are you taking this reference from? What is your "1980 308 carbed" -- a 1980 euro 308 or a 1980 US 308i converted to carbs?
Th reference is from the 1980 North America 308 GTS/Bi OM. My car is an NA car converted to carbs. The carb set is most likely from a GT/4. I need to figure out what it does so I can fake it out. There is exactly one loose wire in the engine bay. It runs under the carbs from the pass side to the driver side terminating about where the middle of the rear pass side carb is. It has a regular electrical connector on it. The two wires for the temp sending unit on the thermostat housing are in their correct location. There's also a cross connection in the middle of the motor that has four water hoses running into it. This has a temp sending unit in it also and it's wire is in place. I have good signals on all the gauges. H
Do you mean A) it is (and has) always been "on" regardless of coolant temp, or B) it used to be "on" only when cold and go "off" when warm, but now it is always "on"? I realize that you have some heavy modifications, but if you still have the stock 308i ignition system and cats it might be better to have this working. If B, the coolant thermoswitch mounted in the coolant expansion tank has probably failed; if A, just remove the bulb from the indicator assembly in the dash . Some questions about your set-up: 1. Do you have a thermoswitch mounted in the coolant expansion tank with two terminals (one terminal having two SN pink/black wires and the other terminal having two, probably N black, wires)? (This thermoswitch, if present, should be "open" when cold and "closed" when warm -- so you can simulate "open" by unplugging and "closed" by shorting the two terminals together in the unplugged cable). 2. Do you still have an air injection system? 3. Do you still have an EGR system? 4. Are you still using the stock 308i ignition system? 5. Do you have cats? Wire color? Do you mean it is just a single wire (i.e., literally only one electrical connection) or a single cable (with multiple electrical connections that may also have multiple wires in each connection)? This is actually a thermoswitch for the cold start injector (i.e., it goes open when "warm", thus ensuring that the cold start injector can't fire when "warm" regardless of any other faults/conditions). Normal -- this is where the coolant temp gauge thermister should be mounted (i.e., where the hot coolant exits the cylinder heads).
Thanks Steve, I have no air injection, no cold start air valve, no EGR, a different ignition system, the air ports are blocked off on the heads with brass plugs and the test ports on the headers are brazed over. I have various things unplugged and dangling on the motor. I'm not opposed to the modifications made to the car by the previous owner, I just need to tidy it up a little and understand the implications of some of the things a little better. I also noticed that the plastic cam pulleys are switched around. On the front bank both pulleys have the fence on the inside. On the back bank, both pulleys have the fence on the outside. It certainly made it easier to install the new belts, that's for sure. I think I'll just remove the bulb. I'll post more as I find more. My plan was to get it running and drive it around until I get a couple of other project cars done. After that, I'll have a much better idea of what this car wants to be. Specifically, a runner that just needs a little more fixing up, a complete restoration car for points or something in between. I'm leaning towards runner because it seems to run perfectly fine and I haven't even rebuilt the carbs, set the timing or changed the points. It pulls cleanly to 7000 RPM - after sitting for five years! And that's with the gas that was in it! I'll keep you updated.... I'm frankly amazed, so far. It has far exceeded my humble expectations. Hal
(With all these systems removed/modified) If you can find the cable that went to the coolant thermoswitch in the expansion tank, and short the two terminals in the cable together (simulating a closed thermoswitch), this should also turn the low temp warning light "off".
That ought to do it. That cable is right out in the open. I can also troubleshoot the thermocouple. The manual gives a temperature that it opens. I ca just pull it and stick it in a pot on the stove with a thermometer and see when/if it opens. Thanks! H
