Hopefully not a repost - I couldn't find the answer using the search box. How exactly does the lowering process work??? I've read the worshop manual that says to loosen the nut, and I purchased the giant spanner from Ricambi to accomplish this... The spanner fits the smaller nut, which loosened easliy *BUT* the larger nut stays in place, is too firm to turn by hand AND doesn't seem to fit the tool. Do I need another, larger spanner? What am I doing wrong? Any help is appreciated.
The spring perch nut is often very tight - especially if there is still load on the spring. Maybe use some penetrating oil and a large 'C' spanner along with spring compressors. I found it easier to remove the whole shock assembly to loosen and clean up the threads on the bench and in the vice/vise. I replaced the shock bushings while I was at it.
You need to relieve the tension on the spring. So you are gonna need a good spring compressor. Without that spring properly compressed it is a PAIN to get that top one to move, especially on the front coil overs. NO flipping room to work with up there.
I purchased 2 C spanners and on my 355 I adjusted the front and rear suspension without any issues. I didnot remove the shocks from the car or relieve the spring pressure. The fronts require about an hour and a half to adjust and the rears took about 30 minutes. You just need the correct sized c spanners. The dealer quoted me about $400.00 for this simple task .....but of course I bought the tools from Snap-On and did the job myself. If the motion ratios are the same on the 348 and 355 to drop the car 1 inch will require 12 turns on the front and 14.5 turns on the rear. Make sure you count the rotations so you don't throw off the corner weights and the rake should be 20 mm for a street car. You will also need to have your alignement reset as well as the camber and toe-in can be effected.
When guys lower your cars, don't you need to do something to the alignment/toe/camber/whatever to adjust for the new ride height? Just curious?
Thanks. Any chance you would know the Snap-On part number for the larger spanner? I found they have some adjustables like: http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?item_ID=5840&group_ID=601 but I have no idea what size range to buy.
Correct spanner can be found at Hill-Engineering LNS-01 - Locknut Spanner - 348/355 Shocks - £28.00 each http://www.hill-engineering.co.uk/homemainferrari.htm
The 348 Shop manual describes the methods and the setting sto readjust the suspension etc. However a general guideline is at a change of 1 inch or more, you MUST do a realignment. Less than that and you usually don't need it. Of course that's my experience only and I either adjust about 1/2 inch for the street car and more than an inch for the race car. I'm usually not inbetween.
I had mine lowered last year. It looks really good, but handles crap at high speed. In my opinion, lowering a 348 should only be done someone who has experience in setting up suspensions. A friend of mine had his 355 suspension done and according to him the change in handling was significant.
Its interesting in the hillclimbs the guys who had fiddled with 355 suspension and lowered it have this year put it back to standard as it handles better on the limit.
No I'm a bit on low side Sy, came as is - as many brushes with ground testify! geo is all fine, haven't even changed the camber, decided to run it for this year to see how it goes. Next year I'm re bushing, when we can get some poly ones, corner weighting, bit more camber and may tinker with height now i have the measure of the car. Had a problem going round pardon at Prescott when hitting ground on this hairpin under late, hard braking. I think the best line but the graunching hurts...
If you want to use 355 poly bushes, I can tell you where to get them. Although QV told me it makes the 348 more skittish. I'm putting 355 rubber ones after the airfiled day next month.
this will acentuate bad alignment and poor chassis rake or other worn parts. I run solid bushings and the car tracks perfectly but the rest of the system is good too. It is all poart of a system.
Solid bushes huh? Sounds fun, think i need to fly out and try a set up like that! Now where do you live FBB??
Do you (or anyone) happen to know the correct size for the other spanner? I own the Hill Engineering spanner, which only fits the top lock ring.
How right you are !!!!The manuals SUCK!! No question about it . Skip many important steps & issues . It appears the manuals are to give you a general idea & the rest is for you to figure out or not to . Bottom line . They ony want their hands on their cars with you buying their parts .
I'm going to lower the 348 tomorrow. 1inch or just 1/2 inch? 14.5turns on the rear and 12 on the front? will pull it down 1 inch?.........and then it's off to have the suspension re-aligned.
Remember the shock location will act as a lever of sorts when adjusting the height. A 1/2" change at the shock location will cause more than 1/2" of lowering to the car. measure the distance from the pivot of the a-arm to the shock line, then to the wheel. This will give you the ratio of shock change to ride hieght (roughly). Take some before and after pictures if you can. BT
Hook ring spanners come in all sizes and can be bought specific or in ranges like 2.5 -3". You can get hook spanners most anywhere that will do the job even the cheap tool outlets or on the web. Just measure the od of the lock rings in question and do the math c=3.14 x D and buy in the range accordingly. OE shocks are 1.5 pitch threads = 1.5 mm per turn. motio ratio is in the WSM I forget like 0.70 and 0.75 or somthing like that. Do the math to get turns/inch drop wanted. Remember to roll your car back and forth after the change so you can see the real changes. You will need spring compressors to get weight off the rings to adjust them. The front upper a-ram needs to come loose at the kingpin and raised to get most compressors in there. Hope that helps.
