308 main seal replacement

Do a clutch job,,, then mark and remove the flywheel locking tab washer, then mark and remove the flywheel, then mark the crank shaft.

Pull the seal, it is a 100 X 80 X 10... SKF makes one at NAPA for $ 28.00 usa
( I have the part number at home.)
Use a seal puller, or a trick I know.
(Drill a 1/16" hole in the seal, thread in a drywall screw and use a claw hammer to yank that seal out. (Don't damage the crank shaft...! PM me.)
Grease up new seal with black moly grease.
(This will prevent it from leaking.)
Press in the new seal.

Finish clutch job.

(anybody know of steps I left out..?)

Good luck,
Edwardo

 

It's not that bad of a job. If you stay on it, it can be a weekend job. Tear-down (removal of drop-down case, drop-down gears, bell housing, clutch, etc.) Remember to properly mark the flywheel because the flywheel bolts are not uniform. If you don't mark them, you'll spend some time getting them lined up properly again.

 

Check your crankcase vent system first, excess pressure can push oil out there.

 

Did the leak recently occur? If so it could be your oil. My 328s (Fcar & BMW) are pretty tolerant, but I have had trouble with certain oils leaking past the main seal in our Chrysler cars. Our Durango leaks Mobile 1 out of the seal, but the same viscosity Quaker State Syn stays-in? I retried Syn oil because to improve the duration of oil changes.
You may want to post what oil you are using and see what others use for your model/year.
Could it also be a temperature caused problem--from extra summer heat? or an oil pressure problem.

Sometimes an oil change can cure a seal leak.

Mark

 

had mine replaced in 3 hours by my mechanic and the seal cost $30, the disclaimer is that I had the car up on my hoist, wheel and inner guard taken out waiting for him to pull the bell housing off, clutch assy and flywheel

We found that the flywheel had some minor hairline fractures so replaced the flywheel ($1200), clutch and pressureplate were good, car had done 44,000 miles