Changing Spark Plugs on a 308 GTSi QV

I just did plugs and extenders on my '78. It wasn't a 5 minute job but it wasn't that tough either. I probably had the whole thing, all 8 plugs and extenders done in under an hour.

 

How did you get to the front bank (facing the interior of the car)? Did you stand inside the car and look down (assuming you have a GTS), take the rear deck off, or just reach like crazy with the extensions?

I need to do mine in the next few weeks, the rear bank looks easy, but the front bank looks to be a b*tch.

James in Denver

 

I did the plugs in my qv last Spring, I did NOT remove the lid but that would of made the job 1000% easier. I did the injectors too. I'm pretty good at getting intimate with my 308.(mounting her to reach the parts) For the front injectors, I had to use a mirror to see them.
You can do it , just take your time and have the right tools.

 

How many turns after hand-tight is the proper "snug"? I'm thinking it was 1/2 turn, maybe 1/4? The oil filter shows 1 full turn after hand tight.

James in Denver

 

You need to drop this "Ferrari" Mechanic yesterday. In fact, if claims to be a Ferrari anything and thinks you need to pull the engine to R&R plugs, I would say that he knows less about these things than my 96 year old grandmother. Just think how bad he would be if something really broke...

 

i'm really hoping you misunderstood him....otherwise, that's pretty bad.

 

Actually, the best tool for getting at the front bank is the u-joint/extension supplied in the original tool kit --- used in combination with an open-end wrench. Changing all 8 plugs can be done in about a 1/2 hour with this tool and some practice...

 

I agree with finnerty other than the fact that I use a closed ratchet-type wrench (I think it's 14mm) similar to the one supplied in the original toolkit for screwing and unscrewing the jack. These are easy enough to find -- in fact, I have a set of these and use them all the time.

 

I use a 3/8" short extension with a 13/16 sparkplug socket with the rubber insert. The extension and socket is 5 1/8" long and when you insert it in the SP hole the extension sticks out about 1/4". This is just perfect and makes changing the firewall side a snap. I'll be changing the plugs over the winter. I haven't changed them since 2007 so although the car runs great it's time to do a plug read and see how the carbs are running. Haven't touched them since 2000 also.

 

New spark plugs in an aluminum head should be snugged down to the point you have to start to really use effort, then loosen all the way, then torque to specs. I would hope it's in the manual how tight they should be. It's important to not over tighten them as you can damage the head; of course too loose is no good either. Once you get used to the right torque you can do it by feel; at least I do! If you've never done it, get a torque wrench until you know the feel.

Off hand I'd say the oil filter should be a lot less tight than a spark plug!

Ken

 

How do you "drop" the engine on a 308?

 

Maybe turn the car upside down ? HAHAHAHAHAHAHa

 

Very carefully.

 

Try doing the front crank sensor on a 328 with everything in place. Did that one last night and it was all by feel with two U-joints. Hands are shredded but I did it!

 

+1

 

+1, I have changed plugs both with the factory tool (in the tool kit) and using various extensions, the factory tool was the simplest. Using lots of extensions and universal joints, they just seem to come apart each time you try to withdraw the tool, which makes things a bit frustrating, and adds time. Not a huge deal, but more time consuming. Do NOT try and do this from "over the top" on a GTS. I tried this, and used a couple large bath towels, with a sheet of cardboard in between (IIRC) and I still put some tiny dents in the metal . Took the car to the dent wizard and he made it perfect again...lesson learned. Just do it from the side, it isn't that hard.

 

And make sure you aren't wearing pants that have rivits in them (like Levi or Wrangler) or a metal belt buckle because you don't want any scratches. Actually, get the Mrs. to do it in her thong

 

am thinking about buying this one from baum..

http://www.baumtools.com/ferrari_catalog_2006.pdf

JAG1634 tool... anyone tried it?

 

I just thought I would add that a little bit of antisieze on the threads is a good idea , and I allways use compressed air or even a vacume cleaner to clean out or blow out the dust and dirt or even moisture the accumulates in the spark plug holes , this way it does not fall into the cylinders when you pull the plug,. This is really important.

 

Good point....if there's water it means your well seals are bad........or missing!

I think that's why you should never clean your car using water....LOL!

 

teveo.......I use a standard quality plug socket that incorporates a universal joint into the top of the socket....IIRC mine's PROTO or someone like that.....

 

Nobody has posted the torque specs for spark plugs yet? Someone has posted, somewhere, a useful trick of using a piece of pipe as a plug hand-starter. Plugs are to be hand-started, with anti-seize compound on the plug threads, because of the delicate aluminum threads in the block - ask me how I know...

 

Put your "string" of plug socket/UJs & short extensions together & then just put a bit of insulating tape around each joint & that will stop the thing falling apart on you - takes seconds.

I.