308 Engine Rebuild & CIS to TWM Throttle Bodies Conversion Thread!

be sure to protect all surfaces and edges. i used thick cardboard. mark the bolt locations for reinstallation. getting it adjusted properly is crucial or it will rub against the body or the latches could bind.

 

1+ to tatcat. "mark the bolt locations for reinstallation".
This save you for lots of work and save the paint when you reinstall it.

I am also going to change the synchros this winter.

 

It actually is that easy, except that you also have to unplug the wire to the license plate lites first.

Harald,
You DO NOT need to mark the bolt locations. Ferrari put a pair of alignment holes thru each hinge & the matching part of the bonnet lid. When the cover is reinstalled, you just put a pair of #1 phillips screwdrivers thru the alignment holes in the hinge & lid, then tighten the bolts down. The lid will be perfectly aligned 95% of the time, & the other 5% of the time it'll just need a small tweak to get it aligned.

 

When the transmission is out and you have access, are there "specs" to measure proper clearances and such to determine if your trans is good or not. My dilemma is that I have a good working trans out of my car (1979 308) that I had driven and basically worked fine, though it has about 90,000 miles on it. I also have a trans from a 1981 that to the best of my knowledge has about 50,000 miles on it (came from a burn car) and unfortunately the party I bought it from had very little knowledge of the car history. So rather than just assume the lower mileage car would be the better pick (at least I know mine is working correctly) I am interested in measuring clearances and such to help determine which is the better choice. Visually both look fine in terms of gear wear, no missing teeth, no weird wear patterns, etc.

So...(Verell and others) anyone help here on detailed specs or things to measure/look for?

 

+1!! I saw your car at Tim's when they were taking the motor out, I bet it looks awesome now!

 

Tim, did a great job as always. the first time they were going to fire it up after the engine was put back in, I just walked into the shop, sounded great.

 

You need a workshop manual. The transmission service section is one of the more detailed/better written sections. It has detailed specifications with wear limits, & drawings showing how to measure them.


BTW, as you would expect, most of the in-place measurements are axial clearances measured using feeler gauges.

To the best of my knowledge, the 308 GT4 transmission's specs are applicable to all 2V 308 & Mondial transmissions, however, I don't have a full set of WSMs, so can't do a full comparison all of the different 2V models.

The QV & 328 transmissions share specs, and those specs are generally the same as the 2V transmission's specs, altho there are some differences, most fairly small.

In your case, you're comparing 2 transmissions, and are looking for differences, so just use the 308 GT4 WSM measurement points.

 

That first pic makes it look like a pick up.

Oh, about the pizza...I'm too cheap to tip, so I'll just pick one up when I come visit yuse guys in the northeast.

 

Do you have smog or inspection in your state?

 

Quote:
Harald,
You DO NOT need to mark the bolt locations. Ferrari put a pair of alignment holes thru each hinge & the matching part of the bonnet lid. When the cover is reinstalled, you just put a pair of #1 phillips screwdrivers thru the alignment holes in the hinge & lid, then tighten the bolts down. The lid will be perfectly aligned 95% of the time, & the other 5% of the time it'll just need a small tweak to get it aligned.[/QUOTE




Thanks Verell. This is first time I have seen. This was good.

I hope you are going to take much pictures of the job. I am going to do the same with my gearbox this winter. My first Ferrari, and the first time I take out the engine in this car.

 

Chris, In the pictures it looks like there's a CIS system where the blower should be????

 

Unfortunately, it's likely to stay that way for awhile due to Chris's 308 budgetary priorities. Like the rest of us, he has to spend the money where it's most needed, not where he most wants it to go....

Chris,
What it takes to get some of those header nuts off is a 13 mm Flex Socket (A socket with a built-in flex joint), and a long (12" or 18") extension.

Flex sockets come in handy in tight places where you can't get at a fastener straight-on. Worth investing in.

Sears has them:
Craftsman 7 pc. Socket Set, 6 pt. Metric 3/8" drive $54.99
Sears item# 00934446000 Mfr. model# 34446

They also carry a 1/4" drive set, but I couldn't come up with an online description.

The 1/4" set should do the job tho.

Boy has the price gone up since I got my sets 10 or so years ago!

BTW, I've been replacing steel header nuts with brass ones. The brass doesn't sieze up under heat, even better than stainless steel. Learned that years ago when I found brass header nuts on an XK150 Jag I was rebuilding. Believe I've got a box of them stashed away. If so, you can have them for a small phenomenal fee...
;^)

 

Don't be surprised if I show up on your doorstep some day. I'd still like to do a 308 gathering somewhere in the middle, but that's another thread.

Good luck and keep us posted.

 

Absolutely a good idea. Actually I'm surprised they weren't used on the 308. My 328 has brass nuts to hold the headers to the head. In fact I lost one and when I ordered a couple new ones from an F-car parts supplier they were also brass so it must have come from the factory like that.

 

The Euro QV header will come out & go in w/o removing the hand brake. Took quite a bit of twisting around before I hit the right orientation.

However, I'm not sure that the US header will come out that way because of the extra bulk the insulation adds.

Probably best to just pull the hand brake pulley.

 

When I removed mine (79 308 GTS), I had to remove the hand brake assembly. Not saying it is impossible to do without, but the less obstructions the better in my view. Hang in there pizzaman! Just resign yourself to the fact that it is going to be a pain in the butt, rusted connections, etc, hard to reach, yada yada, but you will get it.

If you happen to have air tools the one thing that I found helped immensely was to have an air ratchet. Often you can get a socket and an extension/universal on a connection only to find you don't have any room to crank on it. With air, once you get firmly on the connection you just push the button. A 3/8 ratchet isn't terribly expensive and doesn't torque the heck out of things (and twist off old rusted connectors).

 

Yes, I was able to remove both front and rear headers from my car (328) with the engine in place (and I have the heat shielding on my headers also).

The rear one is very much like a puzzle as Verell implied. Up here, down there, left 9 degrees, tilt back etc.. Of course a 308 might be slightly different and there are variations from car-to-car. My rear header just BARELY came out when I got all the combinations right.

 

I pull mine out once I move the engine, and drop it in the same way. Raise the engine a couple inches and it comes right out, at least on a QV