1997 355 compression test numbers: 1)185, 2)180, 3)180, 4)177, 5)170, 6)165, 7)185, and 8)180 Obviously # 6 is a concern but overall do these numbers look good?
These are the results I just recd on my PPI I opted for a tear down......new valve guides etc etc. Thankfully the seller is flipping the bill. The rule of thumb is 10% across the range.....Im sure more knowledgeable people will chime in. These are the results I just rec'd for the compression test: Motor cold open throttle. Do these #'s sound acceptable. 1. 242 2. 227 3. 210 4. 222 5. 240 6. 225 7. 190 8. 225
Both those tests have more than 10% difference. Read into that what you like. Here's what i think..... Buy it, drive it, enjoy it, if it breaks fix it, repeat. Simple.
Open throttle means when they crank the car you get the higher end numbers. There is be a difference of 35% between the two tests. All numbers should be within 5% of each other. 10% applies to cars older than say 15 years. OENGUS number 7 concerns me, and rennspeed number 6 could be a future indicator. Another variable that will make a difference is altitude. You should ask what brand of gauge they are using, and it should coincide with what Ferrari uses. It does make a difference.
ive always gone with the range /spread of the readings. there is no way that one guys gauge will work at the same temp -same altitude -same humidity -same temp of engine etc.. consistency is the key IMO.
rennspeed, for what it worth, my ppi comp. #s were almost identical, with one reading at 165, while most others hovered around 180. Since buying I have put 2500 miles on the car, and recently took it to 150mph with no problems. I drive the car regularly (almost everyday), and so far so good. Like that other guy said, "Buy it, drive it, fix it, etc." You will LOVE this car.
When they remove the heads and before they clean anything,take some pics of the heads and cylinders and post please. Be sure to have them clean and test the spray pattern of the injectors...I personally use RC Engineering for fuel injectors. BTW, I have NEVER heard of doing a CT or LDT when engine is cold.
I agree Fpassion, thats why I opted for the valve guides/valves to be done..........again the seller is paying for the work so it was a no brainer. Otherwise I would have just purchased the car........drove it a dealt with it when it was a real issue. Bobileff in San Diego performed the PPI etc etc
Since brake fluid is hydroscopic, meaning it will absorb moisture from the air, it should be changed at least every two years. I believe if one checks the recommendation from FNA, that the table has the fluid changed or flushed sooner than that. Once the fluid absorbs moisture the insides of the calipers and master cylinder start to corrode. The best way is to use a pressure bleeder and flush new fluid down through the reservoir and through the entire system. Some even use different color fluids to indicate the fluid has indeed changed. Now is the time! Over time springs and frames will sag somewhat. It is best to have a four wheel alignment when first purchasing, unless maintenance records with the Ferrari state that it has been performed recently. It is surprising how much it can change over time. You will be surprised how much better it will drive, not to mention how much it will help tire wear.
My #'s were similiar on a '96 F355 Spider. I bought it...runs great. Will do valve guides with next major in 4 years.....if it needs it sooner will do at that time. Car has done 150+mph with no problem!! Buy it and enjoy!!
