Mike, what year is your Dino? The one in the photo is a mechanical unit the is used up the Series 2 cars (L &M) - the later cars (after '71) use a regulator with a larger red cover - that is "transistorized". If you do not change the alternator with a modern unit (with it's own regulator) I would stick with the original regulator. A friend of mine tried to upgrade the regulator to a modern type and had problems. Yet John Corbani has had great success with a "DELCO" unit (I think). Pietro
Mike, I would wait for a few other experts to chime in (to confirm) but I believe that is the case.. Pietro
My Dino is a 1972 Series E Euro coupe, # 04092. It has a mechanical regulator, with a black case. Last year the ammeter was indicating over-charging, so I removed the case, cleaned the contacts (looks like distributor points) and reset the gap. Has worked perfectly since then. The regulator certainly appears to be original, so once again the "rules" for Dino parts progression seem to be a little fuzzy.
Bob - so your regulator (like mine) is located on the fuse box, correct? I think in later cars (with the red box) the regulator was moved somewhere else. Pietro
The later cars had a red one mounted under the dash between the steering column and the centerline. Euro versions had them mounted on the circuit card fuse block holder. Both are three wire voltage regulators Vintage ones use contacts with mechanical relays that can get dirty and modern use tranistor switching. Can be interchanged but the field, sensing and power wires must line up.
Any safe way to try this one in my car to see if it works? Mounting it seems pretty straightforward. (Take old one off, put new one in)...I really don't know anything about this, but would prefer to have an "original" part in the car if possible and no detriment to performance. On the other hand, if putting in a completely "wrong" part will be more reliable and run better, to hell with "original"!
Mike, If the new one is electronic, of fairly recent manufacture, it will probably work forever. Doesn't matter who made it or for what car. If it is the mechanical type it is probably 30 years old and will give trouble eventually if not immediately. Mine died at about 18 years old. All regulators do the same thing to protect the same 12 volt lead/acid battery that has been the standard for 50+ years. Provide 0 to 12 volts to the alternator rotor to limit the output voltage of the alternator to just under 14 volts. Charge currents are set by the design of the alternator. Looks like a number of regulators were used over the years and there were variations between Euro and US cars. You can't do any damage with any as long as the two wires are hooked up correctly and the regulator case is bolted firmly and electrically to the chassis. Those form the three wires that give the regulator its name. Good Luck. John
As always, the knowledge and skill sets on this site amaze me, as do the generosity of advice, time and resources! I think I'll give the modern one from the shop a try and keep the working old one around (with my busted original) in case I ever want to go to a show or a group of terrorists show up and point their Kalashnakovs at me and FORCE me to sell the car to an obsessive-compulsive purist (you know -- pry it from my cold, dead hands).
Yes, my regulator is just below the two fuse boxes. The black case is embossed "FIAT" in raised letters.
Bob - save that "FIAT" cover, it's original- the new ones say Magneti Marelli. If you ever have to change the vol reg , swap covers to keep the original look Cheers
In case anyone wants to see photos of where this goes in the early cars, I've attached two images. Good luck with your replacement. ...Keith Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Mike - you can purchase any modern 3 terminal regulator (Field, Plus, Ground) and use it on your original Magneti alternator. As John suggested, the regulator is simply a "black box" that regulates field voltage to the alternator. Brand and vintage are irrelevant. I used a late 1970s Dodge version that I picked out of a parts book at one of the local auto parts shops. Easy to find. Cost about $30. You simply have to look through the book for a 3 terminal regulator with spade connectors, or splice the regulator with 3 pigtails to your wiring harness. Jim S.
I got the regulator today... so what is it for sure... It says Marelli 15 - 67, and the red sticker says something in Italian! Image Unavailable, Please Login
It is the volatage regulator for the L and M cars. "Non scambiare i cavi 15 e 67" - do not exchange terminals 15 and 67. "Non applicare condensatori sul cavo 67" -= Do not use condensors on terminal 67 "Brevetto depositato" - = patent pending. Thanks for allowing me to brush off my Italian - Pietro
I decided to go with the modern replacement, and WHAT A DIFFERENCE! No trace of the rev problem, all the electrics work, and clearly the battery was never charging properly, but now it is. The amp meter on the dash shows slightly positive almost all the time, and minor stuff doesn't budge it -- the heater and fan had no perceptible influence. I was so happy I didn't check everything, but radio and directional signals didn't move it either. And, finally, I tried two hot starts, one with the throttle 1/2 way down, the other floored, and they both popped on the first try, with absolutely no hesitation on the lighter throttle turn! I may actually turn the car off at gas stations now. I may have overpaid to have the work done at a shop, but -- he found the problem quickly, seems to have diagnosed it correctly, and fixed it perfectly. He also replaced all the fuses, something I wouldn't have gotten around to in a million years (yes, he gave me back all the old parts, even the fuses)! No sikinned knuckles, no banging my head on something, no cursing or throwing things, or having my wife ask me what's wrong. Just a bunch of dead presidents incinerated as a sacrifice to Alfredino's ghost.
I guess you're speaking of the whole alternator, well done. Your next step: Remove the starter and put it somewhere safe, fit a modern gear reduction one, draws 1/3 of the current and is 3x as powerful. No purpose staying original on such ancillaries as long as you keep the old stuff and your car is a pleasure to use.
First chance I get I'm going to drive over to Tom's garage and fit one in, though I have to say the car has been 100% reliable for cold starts, and only stranded me once with a hot start -- which was really the battery leads and likely the regulator both needing replacement! With th enew regulator, I don't think starting should be an issue at all (famous last words and why I keep flatbed service numbers stored in my mobile)... The alternator and solenoid tested fine...
Congratulations Mike. Every day a new problem solved. Aren't old cars fun? No matter how well inspected before buying. When they are Dinos, you bet your life they are! John
