Compression opinions

Those are leakdown values (in percent loss), not compression values (in lbs/sq^in).

The usual leakdown rule of thumb is:

10% = concern
15% = bad
20% = horrible

so I would definitely factor that into the price (and I wouldn't be so hopeful that they will improve/heal) -- JMO.

However, it is true that uniformity between cylinders is not such a concern on leakdown results (like it is on compression), but usually variation in leakdown results will also show up as a variation in compression results (no compression results made?).

How does it run and/or start? No operational smoking (accelerating or decelerating)? Your post focuses on the "top end" issues -- does that mean the mechanic audibly confirmed that it is the top end leaking most (it's just that I'd put a bigger $ discount on near-future rings/liner trouble vs valve trouble)?

 

I think cylinder 8 is the only one that got a passing score.

Was the engine warm when they did the leak-down? If not, have it re-done on a warm engine. If it was warm, I would pass on the the car or figure an engine rebuild in the price.

 

I walked away from a beautiful '85 euro in black/black because of leakdown numbers that were better than that.

A chance that you could solve it with the mechanic suggested remedy but also a great chance that is needs major work $$$$$$$$$$$.


Maybe have the test done again. Others may chime in but the test depends on lots of factors to be done correctly i believe

 

Pass on the car, there are plenty 308's out there but condition is the biggest problem. Sounds like this one needs a can of motor-honey, lol.

 

Are you saying that the Seller is representing it as "primo" and is asking a high price? How many miles on the Odometer? Is it otherwise in good/GQ appearance?

One thing I don't like is how you guys all jump back like the thing has leprosy -- every car has a fair price for a given condition.

Did you drive it/see it run?

 

I have never seen a mechanic do a leakdown on a warm motor, though I keep hearing thats how its to be done. The guys at LFSC told me they always do it stone cold, as no one is going to be leaning and working around a 180 degree motor (testarossa), waiting to get burned...

Really makes me wonder how many mechanics do this test right...

If that leakdown is correct...how did a 20 year old car get so much wear on its motor? Low oil? What?

You can get a 1970's nova with 100,000 miles on it with better leakdown numbers. And those things were lucky if they got oil changes every once in a while...

 

Steve,

Well said.

Rjay

 

...plus its only $900 to rebuild the engine

 

The only way to know the fair price is to have a crystal ball otherwise you have to factor in the worst case possible. Nowhere in the automotive community is it worse than in ferrari circles, most buyers shoot these cars down out of fear for their wallets. Once they own it, its the best car available but it was a complete turd when they were haggling with the seller.

 

It's an '82, so most likely a 2Vi. A possible explanation for the high leakdown is that the car was a garage queen for part of it's life, driven very infrequently & not enough to properly warm it up & drive the moisture out. The Carb'd & injected 2V engines had cast iron cylinder liners. If they're allowed to sit for long periods of time, esp. with moist oil or in a humid environment, the cylinders and/or rings will begin to develop a film of rust. Then when the car's finally was driven, the rings scraped the rust off & scraped it up & down the cylinders. Instant cylinder wall honing!!

Was talking to Bertocchi about a low mileage 2Vi with bad compression & leakdown. He said that he'd seen it happen to garage queens many times.

Lesson: These cars were meant to be driven regularly.

 

It would be wise to run from this car.

Dave

 

It is indeed a shame. Probably about half the $27K asking price or more to bring her back. A rebuilt engine from TRutlands is around $8K with a rebuildible core.

Even with the engine fixed, she probably would never sell for much more than the asking price (which is rediculously high given the engine's condition). IMHO, in a rational world, $15k to $17k would be a reasonable price given the engine.

Altho, the reality of Ferrari economics is that ANY 308 that looks pretty good has a minimum street price of about $20k. There's always someone on eBAY who'll pay that figuring they're getting a bargain & will drive it until it either gets really bad, or they can't afford the monthly payments. At that point, the car will either go to the breakers, or else a hands-on type, or shop, will buy it & bring it back as an act of love, or maybe just drop a used engine into it.

 

"Her hearta, shesa no gooda no more."

Find another car, those numbers aren't worth it.
Post the serial number here so others won't have to go through the expense of a PPI on her.

 

If that was an airplane it would grounded with numbers like that.