308 V12 conversion begins

I cleaned some parts a bit today, which wasn't particularly fun. Wifey has a strick no solvents in the basement rule, so I has to go outside and finish everything off with soap and water before bring them back in. By the time I finished a couple hours later the light rain had turned to light snow....time for a drink or 2 to warm up.
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ok, ok, you were right.

you don't happen to know the stud pattern on the SOHC block do you? I'm wondering is the right way to build this engine is a SOHC 364 block, 400 crank and TR heads

 

I don't want any models to feel left out of the fun.

I do, a cad file would be great!

 

It looks like the studs were move on the 400 block to get them out from under the exhaust cam, the SOHC engine wouldn't have that concern. Knowing how much engineers like symmetry, I’ve got to believe they rows would be straight at least and maybe is a useful placed.

This stud issue is really bothering me….I’m just not in love with any of the options I’ve got to fix them. I ordered taps, dies, and material to make plugs, but I’m ¾ leaning toward welding them shut at the moment.

It I weld them I could order from column D and get 348 liners and have a 5.3 liter or get the 89mm liners form the 4.0 liter 308 project and have a 5.8 liter. That’s close enough to 6 I think to call it a 6 liter. Oh, or it’s close to 5.7, I could tell people I put a 350 in it

 

I know.......but I just keep seeing the big picture through my rose colored glasses including a big v12

 

Then I could just go buy a TR that comes with TR heads, my wife reminds me of that every other day or so. There is going to be a lot more modifying here then I would have preferred but at this point I can still say I’ve had worse and it’s still no Fiadilac (500ci caddy engine in a fiat X1/9 I did years ago).

When I do stuff like this there are a few rules and this doesn’t break any yet.

1) Don’t ever under any circumstances modify a normal where item.
2) No bodywork required because I s*ck at that.
3) Don’t modify 2 parts when 1 will do.


Now on this project unfortunately, it looks like I need to modify a lot:

1) The block needs the studs and oil holes moved and it may be best to alter the mount flange, which might save modifying the bell housing.

2) The heads will need the one end altered to clear the timing chain and mat with the chain cover

3) The cam covers need to be altered to mate with the chain cover, probably narrow them and certainly add a “Ferrari” to them.

4) The timing chain cover has numerous protrusions on the front that are of no use to me and just get in the way, so they will be cut off. Also the spacing of the holes for the cams is wrong and will need correcting.

5) The trans casting needs the oil sump part modified to match the new engine.

6) The Trans/engine end cover needs to be altered to fit the engine and move the idler gear, see 7.

7) The trans input gear will need to be extended. I am planning to swap the engine and trans gears to get a better drive ratio for the high torque engine, and that means moving the idler gear a bit.

8) Modify the drop gear cover the move the idler gear bearing and add an outer bearing to support the trans input gear.

9) All new exhaust.

 

We can. I've been using the DRO on the mill because I have it at home and know how to use it, but I do have access to a CMM at work if required....I'd just have to get a a lesson or help to run it.