GUYS! I can't stand it any longer! A Testarossa does NOT have a DRIVELINE, or a 308 or a Mondial or ANY mid-engined car. Call me anal but the term DRIVELINE is that tube that goes between the transmission and differential. The term DRIVETRAIN is the engine/ transmission/ final drive assembly......................................THAT'S the one you want to use. Er uh....sorry....................too much time on my hands................................. Mark. GREAT project!! It's always good to be flexible in your plans and designs but have you considered talking to someone about your OCD?
Yo Han, I think you might be getting a little too anal! Semantics. Everyone knows what I mean. I think of the driveline as the path that power takes from the engine to the wheels. (I always assumed it meant the tranny too, but apparently not). From Car and Driver.com's Glossary: driveline Everything in the drivetrain, less the engine and the transmission. Birdman
True. A drive shaft is between the tranny and the differential. A Torque tube is a "driveshaft" between the engine and the tranny, in the case where they are physically separated, such as on cars with a front engine and a rear transmission. So if I bought a car that had a 10 year warrantee on the drivetrain, that would be good, but if it only covered the driveline....they are only covering the driveshaft?? I have always sort of used drivetrain and driveline interchangeably...I'll have to stop doing that before I get blasted by Han Solo! Just goofing around Spasso. Birdman
So let me ask this again.... Did you guys decide that the TR drivetrain* would fit in a Mondial? Birdman *By drivetrain I mean the engine, transaxle and all the other crap so the car can go forward at a high rate of speed under its own power. And reverse. Though it does not need to go fast in reverse.
Yes, but you'll lose the trunk. Be quick about it if you want to be first, I got a call from another mondial owner the other day looking for details.....
FIRST? Hell no, I would rather be 12th....and let 11 other guys figure it out and write the manual first! I wouldn't do it to a perfectly good Mondial, but it would be great for a car that needed a new engine anyway!
The grinding is done on 1/2 the engine....I hate grinding. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
With the offending studs now out of the way on the one bank I could resist a quick test fit of the head. This engine is going to look SOOOO good…..and that head is soooo too long in front. The timing cover needs the block and heads to be flush. Moving the timing cover out to match the head is not an option since it would make the engine too long, so the head needs to get shorter. Most of the “stuff” is just bosses to mount covers, and engine accessories that I have no use for, so off they come. The cams stick out a mile, but I think I can cut them off and use the seal flange as the sprocket mount since I don’t need a seal. The biggest problem I see is that the front cam bearings are sticking a little proud for the block and I can’t cut them off. My plan is at the moment is to machine the cover let the bearing stick in and machine the head so that the timing sprocket fits over the bearing. That will let both the timing chain and the bearing be in the same place at the same time and actually takes a bit of load off the bearing, so everybody wins. I've got to belive there will never be 2 of these. Back to grinding Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Boy Mark, I sure hope you arent in over your head. In all seriousness, if I were ever to attempt this I would just use the stock 2V heads, or the SOHC heads. But I am watching and truly hope you can succeed. Maybe before you dig a hole from which you cant return, you could position the block to the gearbox with spacers, drop the 4V heads on, and try dropping the lump into the engine bay and setting it in position? Be a damn shame to bastardise the heads to fit the bastardised block only to find it wont fit in the car without cutting something. So far as I can tell your only out a 400 block, not a totally bad thing if thats all you eff up. A question though. Are the studs in the block offset, or are the TR heads studs offset. IOW, would SOHC heads be just as big a deal to fit to the 400/412 block?
It's the block. It looks to me like the 365 block is probably a match on the center 10 studs and off the same 2.5mm on the end. If it was jus the end studs that were a problem, I'd just have done an eccentric stud to get 1.5mm then re-drilled the head...much easier. I hope to finish the grinding tonight so I can move on to welding tomorrow. The thicker the metal, the harder it is to weld because aluminum conducts the heat so well. I'll warm the whole block up to 200-300 then give it a try. I've got a 400 apm welder, sooooo. If you want to use a 400/412 block it would be best to keep the 400/412 heads, it's cheaper that way anyway. It's fits, the goldsmith book is wrong.
The grinding is done! Tomorrow the welding begins and we find out if I can repair the damage I just did and turn if from scrap metal back into a block. On the second head the hole head stick out a tad too far....I'll need to think about that. Here's how it looks with 2 heads Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
I vote you chang your screen name from "mke" too "sofa king".... Because what you are doing is not just over the top, its "sofa king" over the top !! Go...you go !!! I'll stay tuned, because it's "sofa king" cool.
No need for defense. It's just the way I learned it. For me it prevents confusion. The important thing is , WILL THE RUNNING GEAR FROM A TR FIT IN A 308?
Mark, have you tried swapping the heads bank to bank and fliping them around? I was curious if the heads could be driven from the other ends.
Just thought I'd toss this out to the Mad Mechanic Mob out here http://www.eurospares.co.uk/breaking2.asp?page=62 <-- 1990 TR being parted http://www.forzamotorsports.com/photos2.htm <-- $11,000 Mondial 8 coupe
Yes, and the main casting of the TR head is about 1/4" longer than the 400 heads pear end....and that's 1/4" too much. I'll most likely most likely just mill the end of the head off, then weld in a plate to seal the water jacket back up.
I took a look, I don't think it would help for space and it puts the oil feed holes at the wrong end.
It's tucked in all warm and snuggly under 4 250W heat lamps. Ill give it a couple hours and it should be ready to weld. One of the smarter things Ive done in a long time was build an exhaust fan over my work bench. I built it a while ago, but just finished the vent line up this week. I have had carb cleaner, lacquer thinner, compressor, oil, wd-40 smoke going and I havent been in trouble at all .and Lanas pretty sensitive about that stuff. Normally all I need to do it reach for the carb cleaner and shes standing behind me whacking me in the back of my head. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
