Search has never been and continues not to be my friend. What brand/size/model number do you guys reccomend for the 308???? Thanks
I had loads of issues with my starter motor locking up with two batteries. I purchased an Optima 34r and have never had one problem since. Also buy a half decent battery tender to keep it topped up.
I replaced my DieHard with another DieHard.... They work great. If you want I can get you the specifics when I get home and can look at the reciepts...??
+1 I asked my Ferrari tech and he said no to the Optimas. Interstate was his recommendation. It's an MT34R for the 328, IIRC, with the terminals reversed. The Interstate dealer and website would have the right spec for your 308.
Optima has had some QC troubles.......I use the conventional lead/acid from the local NAPA. They scratch their heads over how I kill them so quickly...LOL! I guess three Tenders would be the way to go......
+2! Mine came with an interstate and it's been fine for the last four years. Probably need to check on it before too long but it fires right up even if it's been sitting for a couple weeks or more.
Lots of good threads to be searched regarding this topic - Optima Red Tops aren't good if the battery will have to 'sit' for any length of time. The 308/328 cars are 'leaky' and will drain any battery. Red Tops are not 'Deep Cycle' batteries, and will die prematurely - I suppose any non-Deep Cycle battery will do this, but Optima ads said their batteries could handle this treatment, and they can NOT. The Yellow Tops may be able to handle this, if you must buy an Optima, but.....there are better $$$ values. The size you're looking for is 34R, and only Interstate makes this size anymore, Sears does not. However, a 78/34 will also fit. Sears DOES make a 78/34 battery for Truck/SUV applications with CCAs comparible with the Optima Red Top, so that's what I went with a few weeks ago when my Optima decided to fail one weekend.....
Hmmm.. thanks for the info. Car has an old looking Interstate in it now. It's fine if i run it every 3 or 4 days but i noticed it started slowly after being out of town for a week. I drove the car for 20 min. or so and the next day it wouldn't start. Put the battery on a charger and it fired up but i fiqured i'd just replace it. Guess it's gonna go through any battery quicker than a normal car so i'll just go with the ole truck stop-esqe looking interstate again.
Interstate actually owns Optima I had a Yellow Top in my 308 for 7 years, with great results. Yes Optima did have some quality issues Just my 3 cents
Ha! It'd just be cool to have that black and red battery that matches my car under the spare. I'd know it's there and that's good enough for me. Gonna polish the aluminum pipes from the radiator too.
I put in an Interstate 7 years ago and it's still there with no battery tender and I park the car for maybe 1-3 months during the winter. Start it every week and drive it when I can.
I sometimes forget to plug in the battery tender...308 always starts. I don't start/drive it regularly...600 miles since Feb 2006. I know, I know...I need to drive it more. My Ferrari Technician already scolded me. Point is, Interstate battery does it's job.
I'm well into my fifth year with my Optima 34R Redtop. I've never attached a battery tender and my car starts even in single digit degree weather.
I've always been a bit paranoid about hydrogen out-gassing when charging in the garage, so I went for the sealed RedTop three years ago. It's down to where the 328 will drain it flat in two days, without the tender constantly attached. And when it does go flat, it's hard to bring it back. And it doesn't come back all the way. No more Optimas for me. The DieHard I had in my Alfa lasted over a dozen years, and didn't seem to mind being drained flat. Even at 11 years old, it sat for over six months, and then started the Alfa when Passport moved it. Of course, the Alfa doesn't even have a clock -- when it's off, it's *off*: zero drain. But I had a DieHard melt down internally in the engine bay of a ricer (near the turbo). I've had various results with DieHards, and it seems to relate to the battery position. They work well in the Alfa's trunk, away from the engine. They do less well in the engine bay. They don't like the heat. The 328's radiator does tend to warm the battery a bit. So I figure the next battery for my 328 will be an Interstate. (Maybe over the winter when (if) I finally get around to wiring up a permanent connector for the tender. If I do take the battery offline to do some rewiring in the car (e.g. new stereo), that will likely kill the Optima dead.)
It's down to where the 328 will drain it flat in two days, without the tender constantly attached. (Maybe over the winter when (if) I finally get around to wiring up a permanent connector for the tender. If I do take the battery offline to do some rewiring in the car (e.g. new stereo), that will likely kill the Optima dead.)[/QUOTE] DGS I guess I would spend the time to sort out the large short you have here. If you can drain a battery in 2 days then you have a major problem just waiting to get worse. I would think with a drain that bad you should be able to sort it out or if it is multiple shorts at least find the major ones.
I'm chasing something similar though not on the 308. My first test was to check current draw from the battery negative post to the battery negative cable. Measured 0.01mA. At a minimum the clock will run. Looking for tips on diagnosing excessive passive drain. Thanks, Seamus
I've measured the drain: it's 80mA. Mostly from the locator system. But, as I said: by now, the Optima isn't much of a battery. It doesn't store all that much power after it's gone flat a few times. Good thing the CIS car doesn't have to turn very much or very fast to fire up.
