Speaking of clearance, what is the proper clearance between the piston and the cylinder wall for a qv? Sorry if this been ask before. Thanks
Lets see the pistons skirts, running lean will cause the piston to grow and grab the cylindr walls. If you indeed had .003" clearance the piston grew from too much heat either from cooling issues or lean AFR or too much timing.
There was a 100 deg day when a guy with a new 997 turbo chased me up the moutain and my oil temp was 250-260 and water was probably 240 . .. I think things grew a bit during that stint Next time I'll have a boroscope and be monitoring it. So the scratch above the ring line is where a chunk probably got thru? Also, all of the above issues your mentioning have happened at one time or another dialing in the new fuel injection & timing with the high comp pistons. This motor is back in my car right now and is the one that made 210 hp at rear wheels so it's not hurt too bad . .. I'll leak that cylinder down and see how much worse it is now than the others . .. from memory was only 1-2% more leakage.
Just checked the top ring groove on the stock pistons and it's .0015 clearance on the land so really no wear here ... end gap was .004 big though. Maybe the 911 engines you've worked on actually saw more track days
Not that obvious in the WSM. First, the 4V sleeve is tapered .0005 Then I didn't see an actual piston to bore clearance called out, but piston dia metric is 80.923/80.947. 2V stock clearance is .02/.06 mm, max being .1 mm . .. might apply to 4V or it's just buried deeper in manual verbage. I'll look again later if you don't get a better answer.
These two were closer two .004" clearance . .. blurred one is #8 on same bank. Think I'm going to just bore this next sleeve set in my fixture with at least .004 clearance and make sure this problem doesn't recurr before worrying about .002" distortion from head tq. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Then you'll cause other problems if you run too large like the piston crown edge touching the cylinder wall and poor ring seal. The engines I build are running .0025" clearance with 20psi boost and they aint rubbing, engine management is your problem.
That's one of these motors with forged pistons? If so was that clearance with the sleeve out of the block? Also heard JE don't grow as much as Wiseco . .. these are Wiseco . .. next sets JE . . . what are yours? This motor's experienced more than one "bad tune" condition . .. once I get it apart again be able to show you guys more. When I've been tuning I've relied on a wide band mostly for A/F ratio . . . there's a thermocouple input available . .. would this tell me a lot in the future to prevent this from happening and/or fix it if there's still a problem? Unfavorable conditions are you going to see an increase in exhuast temp? Right now there's partial throttle conditions where it's still real lean . .. didn't think it mattered too much under these lighter load conditions . .. thoughts? Thanks, Sean
Chatting with sleeve Steve earlier I understand more now how the top of the piston can grow significantly more than the skirt. Never had to think about that I couldn't stop staring at the localized inteference above the top ring only on the intake side . . . no problem on the exhaust side . .. staring at it pacing around the living room it occured to me maybe the thin cross section of the piston in that area that Ferrari cuts away is getting way too hot. That is a real thin cross section on this set of pistons . .. will know when I tear it down. The fact that the exhaust side didn't show the same wear made me think the problem was localized some how . . . being on the intake side I would have thought the incoming fuel would cool that side of the piston a little more than the exhaust also. Thoughts?
Sean, It may also be worth a thing talking to the piston manufacturer. Some pistons grow more than others and thus need a different clearance. Get some specs from them. When using non-OE pistons, the engine manufacturers' specs are out the wndow. How many cylinders are actually showing this?
Just returned from reading the posts on cylinder distortion. The measurements were all taken on cold engines. Does anyone know what happens with the numbers once the engine is warm? It appears also that there is no consensus about finishing sleeves in or out of the block, maybe with a bias towards doing it in situ, but which IMO ties in with the above question; this all not to doubt the experienced opinions, but I'd like to know the mechanicals behind it.
I also think it should be finished as mounted in the block not in a fixture but how crazy do we need to get here? If he's pumping out 210 at the wheels what would he gain by going the extra mile? 3HP at 8000rpm? As for pistons, I use DSS, JE, Wiseco, Probe, the list goes on and I always go with the piston manufacturer's suggested clearance and yes they are always forged.
Piston maker recommended .003 by email and .0035 on spec sheet. I would say they all show it to a slight degree with the cylinders that had almost .004 clearance way less . .. exhaust side not showing problem at all . . wouldn't this side of the piston be hotter? I doubt manufacturer could tell me anything 'til piston was out, but be worth sending them a pic .. . I really think that thin cross section around the intake valve pocket has something to do with it. Fact this isn't on the exhaust side of the sleeve isn't telling anything?
You run tighter that what the piston manufactuers call out for? On both set, JE and Wiseco, they called out for .0035 on the spec sheet. My map if anything was way rich at first . ... you think there's anything to fuel washing oil away? Without seeing the actual piston, I know it's speculation, but you're thinking the scuffing is happening at the top of the piston due to excessive head temp not the skirt? If you've seen this in the past did you see it isolated like this . . . something to do with wrist pin offset so the pistons always "cock" one way so rubbing starts on one side only? You don't think that thin cross section by intake pocket would create a hot spot? Ferrari trimmed this away. Thanks much for the input, Sean
My question remains: what happens with the liner-roundness when the engine is warm? And are they oval, or egg-shaped? It does strike me as strange that this occurred at the intake side, and it would suggest that there might be a hidden secret in the piston crown, but I suppose things may become clearer once the pots are out. Paul, what do you think, would the piston under lean conditions grow more on the intake side? My guess is it wouldn't. An over-rich mixture wouldn't cause this kind of damage either, it'd be much more even around the cylinder. On a carb engine the intake guides would be affected first, rather than the cylinder walls, but the injectors spray quite at the bottom of the intake tract, so I don't know if that would be much of a point. Also there is not much sooth on the crowns, so I think the rich condition can be ruled out alltogether. Somewhere in the thread detonation was mentioned, but is there any sign of that on the crowns? And wouldn't that rather occur near the hot exhaust valve? Just thinking out loud here....
Yep . . . it's back in right now running with stock cams and valve train . .. 50 hours so far with no problems but with stock valve train I'm not goint over 7700 rpm . .. was going to 8300 before. I wish I had a boroscope to look down in the cylinders to see if it's continuing to detoriate . .. need to get one. Not to get off topic on the shim issue, but cam failures are not as uncommon as I was originally led to believe . .. still not convinced it was lack of spring pressure causing valve float but that and lack of zinc in the oil is an easy answer . . . . got a couple different cam guys looking at this stuff one last time . .. not the people that make the cams . . . independent opinions.
I was really trying to watch things i.e. pulling plugs etc. to see what kind of damage the detonation was causing . .. at one time I saw a few AL specs on the plug and could see a little bit of carbon had been blown off the tops off the pistons. I've heard pinging plenty of times since then on crap gas when I've not added race gas or anything . .. always pulling the plugs out trying to gain knowledge, and have never seen specks on the plugs like I saw when initially tuning and sorting things . . . made me think I wasn't hurting things anymore. When I had the heads off the motor there was no signs of detonation/heat on the crowns themselves (no pits). edit: don't think anyone really knows what happens when it's warm . . . getting tempted to run hot water thru the block to see . . . pretty sure it grows even more in this direction when it's warm based on what I saw trying to simulate the distortion in my fixture.
No zinc in the oil, so, am I correct then to assume it was synthetic? Those are the only motor oils I know of that lack zinc. Can you say what specific brand and grade of oil you were running?? Your problem is rapidly beginning to look like a lubrication failure.
20/50 Castrol . . . I thought "they" had stop putting zinc in the oil due to catalytic convertor damage? regular non synthetic
I dont run less than the spec, this example im using is a ford 4.6 but an engine's an engine. You have to see the piston out of the cylinder to know then you can determine the cause. If your rings are stuck in the grooves at all from distortion and there's metal transfer from the crown edge then you'll know it was too hot. Yes the cut down crown for the valve relief will run hotter for sure. We're all guessing here until the piston is in your hand. If the wall clearance was right then the piston got too hot, most likely from the top side not lack of oil from the bottom. If you had a lack of lubrication the pin bushings would be scored and out of spec as well.