Dang Door multi-pin Plug

http://www.the348.com/tech/348.html#Electrics

Scroll down to the "Door Wiring" section and click on that link.

 

I would just hard wire the stupid things and be done with it. Unless you are one of those purist guys.

 

^ werd

 

I did a rewire on this plug a few days ago and was amazed at the results. The right door glass worked again and so did the radio! Wierd. Anyway, you can get a tool for disassemply of the plug and new pins at the local electronic store. The tool, kinda like a hypodermic, was so expensive, I thought I was at the Ferrari dealership! Thirty bucks! Better than buying a new harness, tho.

 

Can anyone possibly provide any info as to where I can find the wire color diagram for the door plug since the link mentioned here is by now obsolete!

I've 'uncovered' my bundle....to find a complete mess just as you guys describe here!

Thanks in advance for any help.

Stef

 

My drivers side one lost most of the connections. I ordered the entire door wiring from Ricambi and slapped it in.
$1k just for the wire, plus half a day fiddling around to fit it. I love this damn Ferrari so much !

 

+100000

This is what I did, and now my windows even go up and down faster... those micro-pins are a big reason why the ground connection for the window motors is so inadequate. You can fix 1 or 2 pins now... but they'll keep breaking off as time goes on. The hardwiring fix is the only way to reslove the problem in one shot, and permanently!!
Remove the wheel, the wheel well inside cover, and the door strake panel. pull back the rubber boots from both sides of the connector. Cut all the wires off both sides of the connector, use a 5/8'' hole saw to drill thru the connector... this will conveniently remove all the pins too!
I had some old wiring harnesses around that I chopped up, so I could match all the wire colors... but you can use a roll of any 18 gauge wire and just do 1 wire at a time end-to-end.
Start stripping, soldering, and heat shrinking... its easy, just time consuming... each door took me about 1.5 hrs, start to finish. The end result is identical in appearance as stock (last pic) and I guarantee even a Concours inspection wouldnt catch it!
Image Unavailable, Please Login
Image Unavailable, Please Login
Image Unavailable, Please Login
Image Unavailable, Please Login
Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

Ernie that is so awesome! I gotta get me some better weather to try this. Imagine... windows that actually function faster than my beard grows.

 

umm.. thank you. lol

 

LOL!

Now THAT'S what I'm talkin bout.

 

Thanks Steve and all; I guess I'll follow your advice and go 'the long way' once and for all...once I have figured out well how to remove the wheel well inside cover, and the door strake panel!

Btw, on another note, Vince, are you Maltese or have Maltese relations since your surname (Vassallo) is so common here in Malta?

Merry Christmas everyone

Stefan

 

That's exactly how I did mine too. The inside of the connector was then very rough with plastic shards after the big paddle drill-bit went through, but a little sandpaper smoothed it right out.

 

The wheel well is held in with about 20,000 little screws. They get pretty covered with road grime,so use a flashlight to find them. (hint... some are directly overhead in the top of the well). The door strake has several Torx screws (all accessible from outside the car). It is VERY heavy. Have some towels on the floor in case you it accidentally falls. It is **not** something you want to deal with repairing, replacing, or repainting.

 

...... but what do you do every time you want to remove the door?

FFS, why did the factory even bother with that relatively expensive connector? It's not as if the connectors to all of the components in the door are even hard to access with the strakes off. The loom could have easily been simply fed through and connected up directly to the users.

Guess it was at the time Ferrari were learning about production lines

 

LOL

Try not to second guess Italian engineering.

 

Daniel, I used a hole saw (round hollow bit with pilot standard drill bit inside) not one of those ''big paddle'' bits as you explained. The hole saw made a very clean and smooth cut, but I did have to drill from each side because the hole saw isnt long enough to go all the way through the whole connector.

 

I considered using another type of connector as well... but then I figured that the odds of me ever removing the door were slim-to-none.
You'll notice that in the 2nd to last picture, I left a large loop of wire inside the door, so if I ever HAD to remove the door, there would be enough wire for me to just cut and re-splice them... even several times!

 

Thanks again to all for your help. Just one last (although probably stupid) question: why do you need to take off the wheel-well cover at all? I mean can't you just drill the connector, pull out that end of the bundle ... and go on from there?

 

The 'door-jamb' side of the harness can only be accessed from inside the wheel well.

 

I see - said the blind man

So I'll hopefully begin 'the attack' tomorrow keeping fingers-crossed, since to admit th truth, I've never even taken off a wheel so far!

Stef

 

Stef, this is not a big deal... its just a big curved piece of plastic, theres like 7 or 8 phillips screws that hold it in there.
You have to remove it to cut the wires off that side of the connector. Plus you'll be splicing at both ends... essentially making about 18 jumpers in place of the connector.
On the inner fender side, be sure and leave a ''J'' loop down, and back up to the hole in the connector, this will prevent water from flowing along the wires and into the door jamb like the factory setup does.

 

BTW, you DON'T have to remove the wheel or jack up the car to remove the wheel liner. You will need to put full lock on the steering in both directions to acces the screws, and you will need a very short stubby screwdriver for one or two of the screws.

Putting lock on the steering gives enough access to the connector plug as well (although maybe not to get a drill in). In any case, why dont you guys just remove the connector and put a grommet in the hole it leaves?

 

Correct, but if you plan on sitting on the floor splicing wires for an hour, wrapping yourself around the wheel and jamming your head between the tire and fender to see what your doing will make that time extremely uncomfortable!!

Yea, good luck with getting your drill in there too... and a flashlight! ::rolling eyes::

Are you serious!?! and just have a bundle of taped-up wires hanging in your door jamb?! This method keeps 100% of the factory appearance! You'd do a half-assed job like that ON A FERRARI just to save 40 seconds drilling a hole???

Did you have a few too many pints today Drew??.... geez man!