Skid Plates?

As far as skid plates go which ones are the best/
1. powder coated aluminium
2. plastic
3. titanium (very expensive)

Thanks
Chas

 

I would say it is a matter of preference. I have the black ones from the guy off Ebay---Very satisfied, came with all the hardware and instructions

 

My preference is for the plastic ones. Two reasons, the plastic (usually a nylon or ABS type material) has a bit of lubricity and also a bit of "give" to absorb impacts, that metal does not.

Plus, when made in black, are less obvious. Black metal ones will be silver after the first few scrapes...

 

Cool

Thanks guys!

 

+1 on the plastic ones.

You might want to check to see if a set is already on there. I was going to buy a set when I got the car but when I looked underneath they were already on there.

 

I'd say best choice is the thinnest one - anything you add down there in thickness just means you'll bottom out a little easier.

 

Check With Daniel @ ricambiamerica.com (our title sponsor), regarding the Hill Engineering black polyetheleyne (like iron) skid plates designed for your car.

 

Thanks Hank

Absolutely will buy from Daniel..........wouldnt' go anywhere else.
Just wanted to make sure which ones are the best.

 

+1 on getting the Hill Eng. Polyethelyne plates from Ricambi. You hardly notice them as they blend into the bottom and while they do not solve all the scrapes, they do take care of some of them.

 

I purchased mine off Ebay and they are aircraft grade aluminum. If you want something durable that will protect the figerglass bumperette then this is it.
I can't tell you how many times I have scrapped the plates entering drives, leaving gas station drives, ect and all I have to show for it is a couple of minor scrapes in the skid plate paint (they are painted black- easily resprayed annually).
You can only see the paint scrapes on the skid plate from below when the car is on the hoist.
The slight increase in depth to the skid plate also protects the front lower bumper edge from 'grounding out' on the asphalt.
I don't think thinner is better in this application.
The only down side? When it hits/scrapes.....it is loud ......but at least the bumper/paint is protected.

 

Here's the skid plates I installed.



http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Ferrari-355-Skid-Plate_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ63699QQihZ020QQitemZ300188446643QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

 

Hill Engineering black plastic from Ricambi have saved me more than once.

 

Hi Chris,

Question for you ------- what do you do after a scrape? I'm guessing that you are left with an exposed alum. scrape mark that you either disregard or you touch up. Black polyethelene is black throughout, thus requiring no attention after installation or subsequent scrapes. Is my thinking straight?

Cheers, Hank

 

I know the maker, seen his operation and attention to detail; those are as good as they get. I am sure if you email him, he will make them from whatever you want. He just has to load it up in one of his CNC machines.

If I didn't already have some plastic ones from IFS I would get the ones listed above.
Independent Ferrari Service/owner John Terrell
21 Hampden Dr Ste 10
South Easton, MA 02375
508-238-4224

John Terrell makes some really nice ones too.

 

I got mine from that guy also, as well as the fire extinguisher bracket he makes---both nice items with good fit...

 

There is no need to add any skid plates under there in my opinion. Every mm of thickness you add under there will push your front bumber up that much more causing that much more damage. The bumpbers already have a thickened area built into them and can easily be repaired and repainted black whenever you feel like. I bottomed out my nose going through an intersection last year and did no damage except for a small scrape in the front right factory built in skidplate. I hit so hard that if I had had an after market skid plate on there it would have pushed my front end body work up and done major damage. IMO these skid plates are aftermarket gadgets that we dont need. Remember the road and parking blocks are not going to give but your front end will so why reduce the clearance?

 

I can find a few very good reasons:

1) The IFS design has a forward beveled edge that covers the original factory pads rather sharp, 90 degree edge. This can allow it to slide over things rather than "catch" on them and hang up or gouge a chunk out

2) The added lubricity of polyethelyne or nylon allows it to slide more easily over objects than the original fiberglass pad.

3) These will be sacrificial, and if they wear significantly, they can be more easily replaced than have to build up the fiberglass again. (btw, mine are 3 years old and suffered numberous scrapes and impacts and still very usable, after 19k miles of use)

4) The IFS design is more of a "cut out" design, so the forward edge may be 12 cm thick, it is only 5mm thick or so where it covers the original pad...so it is not adding that much overall thickness.

Personally I am not worried about parking blocks and curbs, I stay the hell away from those! But steep driveways and garage ramps are an everyday occurance, and knowing the pad is taking the abuse and not my bumper directly is reassuring.

 

++1...Exactly !
Skid Plates have saved my ass so many times.
I have heard it said before that they may even cause airflow/handling problems at high speeds, but last time I was at 164mph the car was like glue and straight as an arrow.
-Billy

 

I think you guys should differentiate between the 355 and the 348 as they are significantly different.

Rodney Dickman
1990 348 TS

 

Good point. I don't use them. If you must, take the thinnest profile you can and make sure that the trailing edge (nearer the tire) is either really thin, beveled or tapered to avoid the possibility of sliding over at barrier, then acting as an anchor when you reverse.

Yeah, since I have a 348, I was reading this from that perspective. I think the 355's are much less problematic in this regard (barrier anchor problem).

 

Can you describe these differences?

 

I'd prefer to have something closer to the front of the nose than back by the tire. By the time that scrapes, I've probably dragged the end of the nose across it already. Its all the way out at the end I have troubles with on speed humps or entry ways due to angle of attack more than outright clearance.

$0.02

 

That is where the typical skid plate will help you, out toward the front at the first point of contact.

 

In response to 'Hank Sound' (sorry for the delay in responding)
Yes you are left with a scratch on the bottom of the skid plate but this is NOT noticeable from street level......you have to put the car on the hoist to see the scratch. Once a year I take a spray can of black paint and spray the bottom of both plates.....takes all of 5 seconds.

I have a 355 and there are several types of skid plates out there.....there are the synthetic and metal (various types) plates as described so far however no one has pointed out that there are:

flat plates that just bolt on to the bottom of your bumper &
plates that are machined out so that they encapsule (I'm not sure of the spelling here) the little bumperette under the car.

The type I have encapsule the bumperette so that they are very supportive to the fiberglass panel and do not extend more than a few mm past the fiberglass. A superior design as far as I am concerned.

I should point out that prior to installing the skid plates I re fiberglassed the little bumperettes restoring them to their original mint condition . You do not need to do this but I wanted the car perfect (even if you can not see this under the skid plate) and to remain so.

 

The 348 and 355 are appreciably different as to their front bumper covers construction. The 348 needs a piece of 1/2” material to span it’s “Gap” , between the lowest level the front lip, and the rear most under part. The 355 has a 3/8” protruding lip where most skid plates attach.

Many of the 348 skid plates use a piece of ¾” material, which only puts ¼” of material directly in the air flow. I’m not sure this small amount would be noticeable in a wind tunnel, or any street car, but in fact may improve the airflow because it fills some of this gap.

Many 355 skid plates use a wrap around cover or a flat plate with tapered edges. While the wrap around covers look like they are ½” thick, 3/8” of them are cut out to fit over the built in fiberglass protruding bumps, leaving only 1/8” in the air flow. The flat plate style are usually only ¼” thick.

In my opinion, the best 355 skid plates wrap around, protecting the protruding areas, and help to prevent the bolts from pulling through the fiberglass if the unforeseeable disaster strikes. Opinions vary as to the best material; Aluminum, Steel and UHMW (Forget Ti it’s a waste here). Steel while giving the absolute best protection is not forgiving to the bumper cover (ask me how I know). Aluminum gives good overall protection; you will have several hundred scraps prior to replacement, touch ups once or twice a year are quick (if you care, after all it’s a sacrificial part). UHMW is color fast through, the softest material; it has a high level of lubricity. The UHMW pads are usually flat without the lip which increases your odds of ripping the holes completely through the lower section of the cover. Depending on the amount of bumping and grinding, you may be replacing the UHMW ones often.

These parts should be looked at like oil changes; there needed every so often.

J