Brakes

The front and rear pads are the same, and they are not unique to Ferrari, so they aren't hard to find.

The labor is easy, there is no trick to it, and it does not require any special tools. I would guess that most shops would charge about an hour to do the fronts and an hour to do the rears, just to replace the pads. It could be done a lot quicker. If the brakes needed bleeding, it would cost more. If it was necessary to get into the rear parking brake shoes, it would be more.

My guess would be $300 to do front and rear pads only. Am I dreaming?

 

The brake pads are ****EASY**** to change. If you can turn a doorknob then you can have your brake pads changed in less time than it takes to drive to a brake shop. Then there's no charge for your labor *and* you get to know your car a bit better (important for Ferraris!).

If you typcially drive on city streets (i.e. not a track car), then Axxis Metal Master brake pads are cheap, have no squeal when braking, and emit very little brake pad dust...all while braking quite well for street pads (significantly better than stock brake pads).

You'll need a metric lug wrench, a jack, pliers, and brake pads (bought in pairs).

Loosen the lug nuts. Then jack up the rear of the car. Remove lug nuts. Pull wheel/tire off together.

At that point you'll have easy access to reach your brake caliper on that side of the car. Squeeze together the black retaining wires and pull out the old brake pad. Insert the new brake pad, oriented just as the old (typically).

Put wheel/tire back on. Insert and tighten lug nuts hand tight. Lower car. Tighten lug nuts tight with lug wrench (not deathly "stand on lug wrench" tight, just tight with tool).

Repeat process for other side.



*you may have a single wire that goes into the old brake pad. That's your wear indicator. If so, simply pull it out of the old brake pad and insert it into your new brake pad just as you are inserting the new brake pad into the brake caliper.



Anyway, here's a more comprehensive pictorial:http://ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=25468

You don't have to make it that complicated, but that covers contingencies.

 

No, I believe an hour per axle is about right, add tax and I bet most independents would charge right around $275 with tax.

 

I'm not sure what an independant would charge, but I call Ferrari last week to see about getting my front pads done (just the front) and was quoted $710.00 plus tax I'm not going to have them do it, I was just curious.

 

The factory pads is a big part of that. Go with Porterfield from Daniel at Ricambi. Better pad, less dust.

 

I paid 441 euros (ex VAT) for the OEM pads last spring.

 

Buy a torque wrench.

 

ND's suggestion is spot on, easy peasy. I dropped my son off at the Ice rink, went to the back of the parking lot, replaced pads on 4 wheels, and was in the rink before he had his hockey equipment on (15 minutes). The only thing not detailed in his post was the need to pry the caliper pistons back to make room for the new, thicker pads. Not a big deal and easily perfomed with channel lock pliers or a decent sized screwdriver. Be careful not to slip. Don't want to scratch disc's, calipers, or gouge seals.

 

ok guys its quiz time for ya, what important step was missed on the DIY posts?

 

+1000

Measure the wear on the rotors and resurface or replace if too far gone...........

 

Ha!

That was just a quick write up.

But yes, you should use jackstands. Yes, you should use a torque wrench on the lugs when finished.

And yes, you should be careful to build up brake pressure before first driving. Likewise, the new brake pads need to be properly bedded in, but you'll have to do that on your own even if you hire out the work instead of DIY'ing!


Other "nice to have steps" are things like the proper application of brake disc quiet spray/wipe-on and brake bleeding at each corner (good time to change out brake fluid, for that matter).

 

sorry you still have missed it, only someone that has actually changed worn out pads and have changed/serviced their brake fluid regularly would know the missed advice.

 

LOL! You should tell that to Scott Memmer. Here's his write-up at Edmunds: http://www.edmunds.com/ownership/howto/articles/43787/article.html

 

As usual "no doubt" you repeat what you read somewhere else(and repeat it as if it was your idea) and think it is the only way. You give advice without actually doing the job. Oh, by the way Scott also missed the advice that should be given on properly serviced brake system.

 

You must have me confused with someone else.

We're just talking about changing brake pads.

 

Guessing: If not draining brake system to replace old fluid, Remove fluid from the master cylinder to avoid overflow from pushing wheel cylinders in to accommodate thicker new pads?

 

Not a bad step. Not mandatory, but no harm there.

You can also rub your brake pads on the road or concrete at a 45 degree angle to brake the corners prior to installation. Some people like to do that to aid with bedding in.

Others clean the calipers really well and then de-burr the castings anywhere that the metal part of the brake pad is likely to touch (use small files and 400 grit paper and just take away any obvious high spots).

I don't like it but some people will put the disc brake quiet on the actual pad surface itself to aid in first bedding in the pads, too...to somehow act as some sort of oxymoronic sticky "lubricant" for the pads.

 

LOL, Yeah that must be it. whats the matter can't find an internet site to answer the question for you.

huh...we're just changing brakes pads are we, no sense in doin' it right I guess. hahaha

 

Hey Rick I new someone that has done this before would know the answer. It can make a hell of a mess in the front compartment in 348s and 355s as well as other cars that have the master cylinder in that postion.

oh and yes this step is mandatory because you will continue to pump fluid out until the resovoiur empties itself down enough to stop it from overflowing.

 

That's symptomatic of someone who keeps their brake fluid topped up above the fill line. If so, then yes, you've got to remove fluid prior to re-installing new pads, but it's not an issue if your brake fluid on a 348 is below that fill line level. You're just pushing in two pistons at a time a fraction of an inch.

 

FYI: here's the MAX FILL line on the 348 brake/clutch fluid reservoir. It's the huge white ledge that runs down the middle of the tank, which may make you think that you're running only "half-filled" but this is the correct level to avoid making a mess inside your front trunk from doing various things to your brakes/clutch.

Most people (especially the non-mechanics who masquerade as pros on-line) wouldn't even realize that the correct level is displayed, but the factory did that much for us.

It's a hands on thing, I suppose.
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Sorry but you are wrong, it will happen if the fluid is at the stop line. If the pistons are in the postion where worn out pads would place them they are out about 3/8 to a 1/2 each(from new) that is 16 pistons. If the system is maintained properly a person will keep adding a little fluid on each flush/bleeding(to compesate for pad wear and pistons moving in), which should occurr once a year. Brake pads will last many years in a Ferrari and person will not even realize they are adding more fluid on each flush. Even if the system is not maintained properly the brake light will come on eventually because the reservior will be low(piston expansion) and then will be filled back the stop line to get the light to go off.

 

From firsthand experience changing my 348's brake pads, I can say that you won't make a mess if your fluid is at or below the MAX Fill line.

All else is theory from those who at best are checkbook mechanics.