308 V12 conversion begins

Yeah, there are only a couple choices
1
2,4 or 3,5
3,5 or 2,4
6
2,4 or 3,5
3,5 or 2,4

It looks like the 400 is
1,5,3,6,2,4

and the TR is
1,4,2,6,3,5

If I could reverse the TR cam direction it would become
1,5,3,6,2,4

I thought the TR had a timing cover that reversed the cams just like the 400, 3x8, but maybe not. It doesn't matter though the cam doesn't match the crank in the direction I need to turn it.

 

Tonight’s project was to fill in the stud holes which I did and ground away the evidence.

Next up is figuring out exactly where the engine will go. To do that I need to know where the trans shaft is relative to the engine flange surface the calculate the front/back position to keep the drop gears spacing correct…..but nap time is over, so tomorrow.
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It's getting kind of long, but glad you enjoyed it.

 

It's a good price for new liners....but I can't afford new

 

The tired 400 engine was $4000
The TR heads were also $4000
Another say $1000 at this point for other stuff.

I think it will be about $15000 total before it's done and that will not be this year, spring 09 is my current target???
The money should be very close +/- to what I parted out all the QV engine and supercharger stuff for......unless things keep going wrong.

 

Tonight I changed course a bit. I've had the 3rd axis readout for the mill sitting around but never took the time to install it becasue it's a pain...but it would really come in handy now, so now is the time. I got about 1/2 way tonight.

 

Cams.

It looks like billet cams is the only real answer. Making billets would take forever on my lathe.....it's not really big enough but it could work and I don't have digital readout on it so all the moves would have to be done with dial indicators and a lot of measuring. Just not practical.

So....I had a nice talk with my friends in the machine shop today and it looks like a go. I need to find time to make drawings and need to settle on a material and they will knock them out for me. I'll still have to send them out for the gun drilling operation but that is pretty simple and therefore pretty inexpensive.

I noticed on 1 head in particular the cam journals at the drive end are not in great shape. Since I'm making custom cam billets I'm thinking I'll make then oversize and clean the head up to match.

Also on the while I’m at it list is converting to shim under bucket I think which will let me run more radical cams. I’ve got a line on some nice parts that are relatively inexpensive parts but require opening up the heads about .5mm to fit them….what the heck, it’s not like the heads are ever going back on a TR at this point I guess.

Then all I have left is deciding what grind profile to ask for, easy right?

 

It looks like it's going to be a 5.3 liter for cost reasons with an 85mm bore and 78mm stroke. No billet crank. No oversizing the already oversize (348) liners, just get them and put them in.

Back around post 133 I was playing with the flow and got the intake up from 108 to 120 cfm @ 10" H2O with the stock valves at .400" lift. I'm pretty confident that with oversize valves I can hit 130-135 without a lot of trouble. That will be enough to make the engine pull to 8200-8500....and that is where it needs to be to clear 600 hp I think.

There is some question about how much lift and how little duration is safe with the small ferrari cam base circle. I want at least .400” lift on the intake but I shouldn’t need more than 230 duration (at .050” lift). Extra duration will soften up the bottom end, but too little could damage the cams or buckets. I'm leaning toward just being safe and getting more duration than I would really prefer, like about 250 degrees at .050” lift on the intake side and on the exhaust side run something a stock TR intake cam with .348” lift and 222* at .050” lift duration.

I need to plug a the options I’m considering into my software and see what comes out.

 

The problem with the 90 degree thingy is you need to lock the spindle and use the knee.....so the quill readout won't work.

The Z-axis I'm mounting is on the knee where nothing is even remotely straight or square so it’s taking some time to make the spacers, brackets shims and such. I would like to get a quill readout too at some point, that and a speed nut on the quill stop.

 

The quill sticks down into the attachment about 3 inches to hold it on. Technically there is still 2 inches of quill travel but you really should lock the quill all the way up and jam the quill strop nut up tight.

With the 90* head, al the tool pressure loads are in different directions that machine really wasn't designed for. There's a torque on the quill key and the cutting loads are up and down instead or side to side which tries to pull or push the quill up or down....and it will move it you don't secure it at the top with the jam nut. If I'm just drilling or 1/4" end mil or something like that I will used the quill, but for ant serious milling it needs to be up and locked.

 

The shaft inside is an R8 and fits into the spindle.

You slip the shaft up into the spindle just like you would a collet and tighten the draw bar with the housing sliding loose over the quill. Then you snug the housing bolts to snug it up on the quill so you can indicate it to the direction you want it to point. Then finish tightening the housing bolts as well as 2 other jam bolts and you're ready to go.

There is also an arbor support that clamps to the ram dovetail to make it a true horizontal mill.

 

Here's a little tease from the simulation software
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