Custom chip tuning at Competizione for the 3.4 liter engine: results.

First, you are not drilling out the cap. STOP if you think this is so!

You are tapping a small hole through the plastic cap. Don't drill for oil, only drill to pierce it.

Use the smallest bit you have. Then take a small self-tapping sheet metal screw and screw it into the hole only as far as necessary to grip the cap. Then simply pull the cap off; it's a no brainer and terribly easy. Do not, however, drill like there's no tomorrow through the cap. At worse you will drill into the adjustment screw. Chances are that you will not mess it up since a small drill bit is not going to go in very far.

When adjusting the screw, turn it in 1/4 turn increments and note the direction of the turn and the resultant change in resistence.

When you are done, just replace the cap in the adjustment screw housing and that's it. Frankly, mine are still off. They are blue and don't really go with the car or engine compartment colors.

 

Yeah the aluminum ones are harder to drill but the same. Mine were like yours, keep drilling they are thick. The cap has a snap ring around the middle that is why you need to put a screw in it to give it a firm tug out wth a pliers. The cap spins freely inside the meter but wont come out? that is because of the ring around it. Keep going you almost there.

 

Dave have you checked your pm's?

 

LOL, My mistake. You have the "Don't mess with this part" version. Yep, do what Dave says. In this case, I might drill a larger hole than the ones I did for the plastic covers. I used a 3/32nds bit, I think.

 

So is that cap out yet ??

 

Nice job! Now that you've removed the MAF caps, you're probably laughing at all the big fuss. Some people actually buy new MAF caps and reinstall them, if you can believe that! Best to just leave the caps in the garbage pail, I say.

Also, you did well in removing the rear MAF screens. One such screen was about to cause you harm.



As for your idle, I'd suspect that you have a sticking throttle. Could be from your floor mat touching your accelerator pedal...could be from grease and gunk accumulating onto your throttle cable itself.

Simple cleaning of the cable and repositioning your floor mat might therefor solve your idle problem.

I'd suggest spraying WD40 onto your metal throttle linkage at each rear corner of your engine and underneath each throttle body.

After all of the above, I'd suggest a lower MAF resistance measurement. 384 ohms is lean. Even with everything in perfect operating order, you'll be slow returning to 1000 rpm idle with 384 ohms MAF resistances. You aren't going to harm anything at 380 ohms, and 375 ohms will likewise be fine in almost every conceiveable circumstance.

Do check that your air filter is clean (and air intake tubing free of major obstructions), as well. A dirty air filter can play havoc with an idle.

 

Hey ND,

How far a drive you think you are from Blue Ridge, GA ??? :") I need to bring mine over for the ND tune up !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

I think it may pay dividends to use a MAF sensor cleaner at this point. I have read that dirty sensor elements can dampen reponse time and even lower the elements sensitivity.

 

Yeah, Baby! You're just a couple hours from me. Get some good weather and send me a PM.

 

But then again I have better roads over here
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You're going to love your first night drive with the HIR lights!

 

You should post a few more pics of your car, it is absolutely stunning in person. Even though this is a 348/355 forum, a prestine Mondial T coupe is something to behold especially in such a great color combo.