I personally think that your torque numbers will be higher. I admire your commitment. It is tough to stick with a project at this level.
Lobe separation on mine was 110. 280 total and it was still a bit too big for how I had the car set up. I have seen an electrically driven vacuum boost pump on full sized Jeep Grand Cherokee. There is NO vacuum diaphragm in the traditional sense. Step on the brakes and you hear the pump. Mount it anywhere. Power brakes are nice, especially when you have to stop quickly from triple digit speeds with hot brakes.
I think the hump around 2500 is not real and will not be in the final dyno graph. I would expect the real graph to be a lot like putting ruler from the 2500 peak to tangent with the curve up top, so more low and mid range torque but I'll be very surprised if the peak torque is as good as the prediction.....470 ft-llbs is quite a lot of for a 5.3 liter engine.
I'm pretty sure these will handle it.....once I stencil "Ferrari" on them Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
What year and model are the brakes off of? Were they a direct bolt on? I could definitely go for a set of those. What are you going to do for the rears? Scott
Scott, The are Cayenne calipers, brembo rotors, custom hats and nothing like bolt-on.....come on, this is me...the cut a v12 up and weld it all back together guy The rears are 944 front calipers, brembo rotors and custom hats, also not bolt-on.
I just thought to peak out the front door and there was my 348 liner. So just like Christmas I raced down stair to open the box and discovered its iron ..who knew. I just ASSUMED everything 308 and newer was nikasil coated aluminum. That changes things a bit no need buy any more of these and try to adapt them when I just make new ones that fit ..and are an 86.5mm bore to give me 5.5 liters
Here's the engine at 5.5 liter if I let the computer tell me what the heads should be instead of me telling the computer what I think I'll get out of them......that's a lot of hp if I could get the head to flow what the engine wants. it also says I should pull some duration out of the cams to shift the peak down below redline. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Those will work!! Ironically, the "little" brakes are Porsche as well. If I remember correctly the front calipers are 914 units and the rear are 911 items (or nearly so)
I am a firm believer that any time you can hit max HP at a lower RPM the better. More longevity and reduced chances of catastrophic failure throughout. The less radical the cam the happier your valve train is going to be. This so cool!.
I know I should bite my tongue, but do you think you can realistically get that much HP out of the engine (referring to the last graph)? I like the brakes, and btw, you're doing some amazing work on the aluminum casing
Yes if its spun to 10,000rpm and has a complete overhaul using better rods, pistons, cams and heads = $$$$$.
Exactly.....so no, it won't make that much hp. I'm building a 8500rpm, 600 hp engine. That was a "just for fun graph". I know I won't get all the flow I'd like out of the heads so I added a bit more duration to compensate a bit. I also don't want to beat up the valve train too much so adding the lift I want also meant more duration to keep the cam ramps reasonable. With the under-flowing heads the extra duration helps it pull to 7500 and carry the power out to redline pretty well and make a pretty nice engine as seen in the first graph. But when the head flows what it should and allows the cam can act the way it should 240*@.050" lift in the 4V head is a 9000-9500 rpm cam......and you make gobs of hp at 9500.
That's right, no spinning it any more than required.....but it's going to be a 600hp engine if it kills me. The get the flow I need to open the valves to about .400" and that will mean going up to 240* or maybe 250* @.050" lift to avoid radical cam lobes that beat everythuing up.
Well, you could simplify things in your quest to hit 600 HP. ..............blower.............cough......cough.....................
You b*stard! I guess I could just through all kinds of hoops and try to live up to : You lost me at "It does not need 700 horses" - mk e Since I will have a 5.5mm larger bore and I already have to make cams I cam put the lobes anywhare I please so if I go to the slightly larger buckets as part of the shim under conversion I can increase the spacing between the valves and go up to say 34mm intakes without them interfering with each others flow.....that would let me get the heads into the 150-160 cfm @ 10" h2O range and that would let me make 700 hp......at 8500-9000 rpm. What a slippery slope hotrodding can be.....now back to finishing my z-axis readout so I can get the trans done.
I think a turbo could be packaged much easier, one hairdryer out of sight would make up for all kids of kinks in the inlet.
Been watching Ferrari dyno runs on youtube and the old 308,tr are very linear in their acceleration sounds while 355 you can hear 2 stages and a definite increase in pitch and scream going at redline,the the 360 sounds? like 3 stages,360s sizzle those dynos.430s scream even more.550s and 575s also sizzle. My question is how limiting is the space constaint on the design of your intake system? Could an intake be designed to give that "sizzle" on 308s or is the trick in the varicams? Thank you Mke
The trick is variable intake length, variable cam timing and variable exhaust back pressure. It all adds up to big HP from a small engine.
What Newman said. What you hear on the dyno is the 355 and newer all have a by-pass muffler design where a valve opens at higher rpm and has 2 different sounds. The 360 also has a 2 length intake tracts that shift at higher rpm and that is probably the 3rd sound you hear. All this variable stuff is about trying to make the torque curve wider. Without it you can tune to get power down low for daily driving but you lose top end hp or tune for top end hp and lose low end. The variable stuff doesn't give you more top end or bottom end then you can get without it, but it gives you more top or bottom then you would get it when tune for the opposite. That brings us to the V12 or boost. With the V12 the displacement is so big there is simply no way to not have plenty of low end for around town driving, so I can tune for top end and not worry about it. The other option is boost the stock engine. 3.0 is pretty small for a 3200lb car so my personal favorite is a screw type blower that adds boost right at idle and make a HUGE difference in the way the car drives in town and works even better on the top end. To next best thing is a turbo or centrifugal blower, they only really work in the top ½ of the rpm band, so you really want an engine tuned for low rpm power and let the boost fix the top end. I hope this makes sense its not an easy subject at all.
