Unobtainium Supplies: K-Jetronic (CIS) Plastic Fuel Line/Hose Restoration Kit

I'm pleased to announce that Unobtainium Supply Co. can now provide a K-Jetronic (CIS) Plastic Fuel Line Restoration Kit.

The kit contains sufficient lengths of the correct 5mm, 6mm,& 8mm black polyamide(aka Nylon(tm)) line to restore a 308/328/Mondial 2V or 4V CIS system. There is enough extra line of each size to allow for several mistakes while learning how to insert the metal barbs into the line. I had to specialy import the line from Germany as the correct size was never imported into the US before!

If you're interested in the extensive research and background details on this project, see this thread:
http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=13095

ORDERING INSTRUCTIONS:
To order send a $55.76 = $44.76/kit + $10.90 S&I to USA address) via PayPal to:

SUBJ: ORDER:Qty n Unbreakable Lever Bezels,Chrome Qty
TO: Orders(at)UnobtainiumSupply(dot)com - (Sorry, but I get swamped with spam when I use the @ & . symbols)

PLEASE:
1) Include your shipping address, phone # for shipping co. use, & Fchat member name in the eMAIL.
2) Remember to put the quantity in the subject as I track open orders using eMAIL folders.

If you don't use PayPal, Send eMAIL to the same address with the order information to lock in your order & that you're mailing your payment made out to:

Unobtainium Supply Co.
523 Longley Rd
Groton,MA, USA
01450

INTERNATIONAL ORDERS:
Please send eMAIL with your shipping address, phone #(shipping requires for quote). & I'll get back with S&I costs to you.

I'll eMAIL you order confirmation.

CAVEAT:
Some of the Euro models use SS braid covered line instead of the kit's plain black 8mm line. eMAIL me & I'll quote you a special price for a kit w/o the 8mm line. If there's enough Euro interest, I'll provide a kit with the SS line.

 

OOPS, as some of you have already figured out that should read:

SUBJ: ORDER: Qty 1 K-Jetronic Fuel Line Restoration Kit.

Also,
If ordering more than 1 kit, please replace the '1' with the number of kits you're ordering.

I"ll post the following in the next few days:
- Drawing of the assembly tool I built, & pix showing how it's used.
- Tips on how to remove the old line & install the new line.

The tool is NOT for sale. With 17 hours invested in it, I can't afford to make another one.

 

If you're planning to redo your fuel lines in the next few weeks, I suggest you place your order ASAP as I'm down to 3 kits.

When these are gone, I'll have to get more line from Germany. The last order from Germany was 'expedited' & still took 6 or 7 weeks with premium air freight shipping!

I'm working on the CAD drawing for the tool, & am writing up some old line removal/new line installation tips. The metal tool I built works great, don't have to heat or lube the tubing, just press the barb in by hand! I should have them available by this time next week.

 

you have an order waiting on paypal!

 

I just placed mine.. I'll need 2 kits
Thanks,
Will

 

Will wait till the next go round since demand is high.

The tip sheet or the tool w/tip sheet?

 

Those were the last 3 kits. I'll post when I've got more available.

Tool drawing & tip sheet.

 

Thanks a group!

 

REMOVAL PROCEDURE:
1)Measure & write down the line's length before beginning this procedure.

2) Do not cut the old line, or at least leave a 20-30 mm length beyond the barb's end until after the line is removed.

3) Score the line: Use a sharp knife (eg; eXacto) to make a shallow cut along the barb to weaken the line.

CAUTION: Do NOT cut deep, if you nick the barb, the new line WILL LEAK & you will need a new barb.

3) Weaken & stretch the line around the barb: Use a pair of pliars (I like the tip of linesmans pliars) to firmly squeeze the line against the barb working all the way around the barb. This will weaken & stretch the line so that it's loose on the barb.

CAUTION: Be careful to not crush or scratch the barb or the new line WILL LEAK & you will need a new barb.

An alternative to using pliars is to use end-cutting wire cutters to work your way around the barb grabbing one side of the line.

4) Pull the line off: Grip the line about 12mm beyond the barb's end & pull the line straight off of the barb. It will usually split along the shallow cut, but in any case it should come off fairly easily. If it doesn't readily come off repeat step 3.

INSTALLATION TIPS:
1) Cut one end of a long piece of line square across using blade & anvil type shears such as garden or utility shears. I use these shears: Craftsman 2-1/2 in. Handi-Cut
Sears item# 00937300000

CAUTION: Do NOT pre-cut the line into lengths. If you pre-cut the line & mess up installing the barb into the first end, then you have to scrap the entire length. If you keep a long length, then you only scrap an inch or so. This is especially important while you are learning how to insert the barb.

2) Insert the first barb into the line.

3) Cut the line to length & insert the 2nd barb.

NOTE: The injector line lengths for each bank must be very closely matched or they won't stay together in a neat bundle.

I measured the following lengths on 2 Euro 308 QVs & 2 US spec 308 GTSis:

6mm lines:
Front Bank Injector Lines: 4 @ 310 mm
Rear Bank Injector Lines: 4 @ 300 mm
Cold Start Injector Lines: 1 @ 370 mm

5mm lines:
Warmup Regulator Lines: 1 @ 350mm & 1 @ 270mm
BEST TO MEASURE: Depending on your WUR the length may vary.
8mm lines:
Distributor Inlet Line: 1 @ 360 mm
Distributor/Frequency Valve Return Line: 1 @ 340 mm to 1 @ 400 mm
Distributor to Frequency Valve line: 1 @ 120mm to 1 @ 450mm
BEST TO MEASURE: Depending on your Frequency Valve's location, or if you have a Mondial these lengths will vary.

The 328 lengths should be identical to the QV's length except for the frequency control valve whose location seems to vary a lot.

The frequency control valve's location seems to vary a lot on federalized Euros, so your length may vary.

Unfortunately, I could not locate a Mondial to measure, so your length may vary. I would greatly appreciate feedback when you measure your Mondial line lengths.

If you find that your car's lengths are different, please assist others by posting your car's model & the lengths to this thread. This is especially important to help ensure I'm supplying sufficient length.

 

Dear Ferraristi,

You know Verell, you are really amazing !

I drive a 91 TR & Diablo VT R and don't need your specific kit, but had to write. You may want to make this kit available for TR's and Lambo CT's. On the Lambo boards, this is a commom " OMG, what am I going to use now?!? "

Your great work and dedication is appreciated !


Shamile

Freeze...Miami Vice !

 

Verell, you have to post some pics of the installation tool. (I got to see it last week and it's really slick.) The tool looks a little tricky to turn out in quantity unless he had a machine shop do a run of them to get the price down, but man, that thing will make quick work of assembling these. Take it from me, assembling them without some sort of tool is next to impossible.

Birdman

 

I just got word from CohlineUSA, my order will be in the next container from Germany, scheduled to arrive 2nd week of April. It'll take about 1 to 1-1/2 weeks to clear customs, get shipped to me & for me to make up kits.

 

That's great...I'm already on the list.

BTW...did you all settle on the install method? Sounds like the tips can be dipped in boiling water and then pushed in place and they will shrink to a snug fit...yes? I am also very leary about removal with a knife since any kind of knick or scratch will cause a leak. can they be heated or twisted off?

Thanks for all of your efforts!

 

OK, OK, I can take a hint.

USING THE BARB INSERTION TOOL:
The following pictures show the sequence of steps from removing the old line thru using the tool to install the new line:
- removing the old line

- installing the barb in the insertion tool's top half. The top is a sliding fit on the line & barb so it's easy to work with.

- The insertion tool's two bottom halves showing the lower smaller ID that clamps the line & the larger upper ID that provides room for the barb to expand the line. The tool can handle both the 6mm & 5mm lines just by switching sides. The top aligns the barb with either side.

- The tool inserted into a vice ready to insert the barb in the line. The vice jaws both clamp the line in the bottom half, and also provide the outer edges of the rectangular guide for the square alignment keys. The alignment pins also keep the tool from sliding thru the vice jaws. The square keys ensure the barb is kept vertical & goes straight into the tube.

- Side view just before insertion. Note that the tubing is slightly off-center in the clearance hole.

- Side view just after beginning insertion using finger pressure. Note that the barb has brought the tubing back to center!

- The tool in it's closed position, the barb is fully inserted. The 6mm tubing takes a tap or 2 with a plastic mallet to ensure it's fully seated. I can usually fully seat the 5mm line by pushing down with both thumbs.

Note that the allen screw isn't fully tight. I realized that it doesnt need to be tight as the keys will hold the top closed. The key is just loose enough for the tubing to slip in & out between the halves. This speeds up operation considerably!

- The result!!!
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RE: INSTALLATION:
Installation is to press in, requires a tool as shown in my preceding post. I'm drawing up the tool. The 6mm line requires too much insertion force to be done w/o a tool that both holds the line & keeps the barb aligned with the line as it's being pressed in.

Theoreticly 5mm line can be done by holding the line in a flaring tool & pressing the barb in by hand, but it takes practice. Birdman said he ruined a couple of meters of line while learning. The tool makes 5mm installation very easy.

In either case, no heating is required.

The 8mm line can easily be done by holding the line in a brake flaring tool & pressing the barb in by hand. It just takes some force & a little practice.

RE:REMOVAL:
See the removal tips in my earlier tips post & the removal pictures in my preceding post. The scoring with an exacto knife isn't necessary if you use end cutters.

If you use end cutters, catch as small amount of the side as possible.

DO NOT try to use side cutting pliars, you can't control the cut well enough to ensure you'll avoid nicking the barb.

 

Since a couple of people have already sent me money, I figured that to be fair to everyone, I ought to formally announce that the april kits will be shipped first come first served based on the date on your eMAIL order.

 

Are you going to make the tool available for sale?

 

I should frequent f-chat more often...

I did this whole job several years ago. I replated all the lines (had them replated, that is) with yellow zinc dichromate. I sourced the black polyamid fuel line from Winzer in Dalllas, TX (took several iterations before I got the right match, including one salesperson sending me a reel of windshield washer fluid hose!). I sourced the installation tool (pics attached) from Baum Tool. I went to their site tonight and put the part # in (P385) and it is still there. In 1999 when I bought it, the tool was $59.29 plus shipping.

-Matt
'85 euro 308
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As soon as I finish them, I"m going to send the drawings to a machinist for quotes. I'd estimate that i'll be in the $75 - $95 range. I'd need at least 10 & preferably 15 or 20 buyers to consider a run of them.

If you'd be interested in buying one please indicate so in a post.

BTW, my 1st take at a tool was something very similar to the Baum tool, It wasn't too bad with the thinner wall lines (the 5mm), but I ruined a lot of that 6mm line before I got a successful insertion. So far, this tool has inserted the barb cleanly every time!

 

I'm in Verell, depending on how fast you churn them out.

 

I'm in too!

 

Verell,

Me three !!!

 

So far doesn't look like enougn interest to tool up a run of the tools. Anyone have suggestions/ideas?

Am I jumping to a conclusion, are people out there waiting for the next batch of kits to be available b4 speaking up about the tool?

Mark, JW, & Maury what's your time frames? ie: How soon do you need a tool & for how long?

Inquiringly,
Verell

 

The car comes back next week, but I'm sure it'll take me a month or so to put it all back together. If you were to loan your tool I could use it and send it back whatever time works out best for you and everyone else. I'm guessing I should only need it for a day or so.

 

I know this is being discussed for 308's and Mondials. Will this kit work on a USA spec 87 328 gts?

Scott