Dino DIY - Removing Alternator, 246GTS Euro version w/no fuel tank cutout

The alternator in my 1973 246 European version recently failed requiring that I needed to remove it for rebuilding and as JCorbani mentioned "the first time is h*ll, all subsequent times are much faster". So true, turning the nuts was the easy part but I wasted time on several "dead ends" and wanted to share the process to help others. The failure is possibly due to oil intrusion (looks like a failed cam end gasket or T-Chain tensioner O-ring, but I'm still diagnosing that)

Note: different versions of the Dino will require a different removal path and this worked for me but it is no guarantee it will work for you. I didn't have a cutout in my fuel tank which would have made the task easier.

Tools needed: 10mm, 17mm, and 19mm wrenches, screwdrivers - shorties are best for the tight access areas

First, securely and safely raise the Dino up and remove the Passenger's side rear wheel to gain access to alternator area
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From underneath the Dino, use a 10mm wrench, unfasten the two bolts that attach the heat shield to the exhaust
and remove the heat shield
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From the top of the car, reach into the engine compartment with a 17mm wrench and unfasten the Alternator retaining nut/bolt on the forked bracket.
Remove the bolt and nut and place them in a safe place.

BTW, you can see the lovely oil sheen that decorates the area, causing all this fun!
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From the wheel well area, use two 19mm wrenches (or sockets) and unfasten the Alternator pivot bolt/nut, then remove them. Be sure to retain the spacer.

This allows the alternator to slacken the tension on the drive belt. Slide it around the pulley and remove it.
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In any normal car, this would be the end of the task, But not in my Dino - the alternator is caged by the surroundings!
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Using a 17mm wrench remove the two retaining nuts that secure the Heat Exchanger bracket to the block.

Using two 10mm wrenches remove all four retaining bolt/nuts that hold the heat exchanger to the bracket, then remove the bracket assembly
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Remove the upper and lower water hoses that connect to the heat exchanger

I found that the top water hose needed to be removed from the thermostat housing first
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Rotate the alternator, move the heat exchanger out of the way to pull the alternator forward. Lift it up over the tank and out through the wheel well.

Success!
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GREAT write up and photos!!!

 

Congrats- I remember when I first tried to get my alternator out it was a huge pain. Now that I have put it in and out probably 20 times ( no kidding ) I have the hang of it! I am certain that your cam cover end cap is the source of your problems. It is covered with oil & looks to be leaking out of the bottom. I would aslo check the timing chain tensioner housing. However, DO NOT completely remove the housing as the spring tensioner will push the housing out when you try to put it back on the studs and it is VERY tough to get back on. Jim Selevan bailed me out of that one too ( he has done this many times!!). In any case you need to back the nuts off the housing to the very end of the studs and put sealant around the opening, wait until it cures and then tighten the nuts & housing back down. If you take the housing off ( it wont come all the way off anyway) you will have a terrible time trying to get it back down. Interestingly enough your pulley, water pump and crank pulley accomodate the larger diameter gates belt. On the US cars the belt is a polyflex 7mm x 900mm . I discovered that you can pull up the Gates website www.gates.com and you can input your belt dimensions(the width in mm by the outside length in mm...eg for US cars it is 7m900 and that is the item #). It is important to measure for yourself as different pulley configurations will affect the measurement. Now you have a decision to make ...a Delco replacement ( Jegs has a GM 60 amp model for about $100 bucks) or rebuild the old one? I think that you are fortunate as it looks like your set up will enable the stock pulley on the Delco unit to work on your car. If you have a US car you have to get the pulley machined to accept the more narrow Gates polyflex belt. I believe that with your set up you can just install a standard Delco model & not fool with the pulley & belt size. My Delco was externally regulated and in hindsight I might have been better off with an internally regulated unit. I had issues with my Ferrari regulator & one of the repalcements that I bought. It seems to run much better now that I straightened it out. Nonetheless an internally regulated unit may save you a lot of time. It is a lot easier from here on in. Good luck!!

 

Yes, it took 1.5+ hrs to figure out how to perform a 10 minute task...chuckle.

I took the Alternator to Carlo Durante, our local FCA Technical director's shop "Alfa of Tacoma" and am having it rebuilt. Carlo also mentioned that the Timing chain tensioners tend to leak as there is a lot of oil flowing through there. Since I see oil above the tensioner/housing and a definite oozing at teh cam end cover, I think I've found my source.
I knew the cam end caps are typical sources for leaks, but the funny thing is that I replaced that one just 2 years ago...che piccato - life with a Dino, but now I have two down for repairs!
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I've cleaned up all the oil in the area just in time.

The alternator is back from being rebuilt and while I'm there I've gotten a new belt and 60 Amp fuse
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I made a new wire loom using an 8 gauge wire for the oputput and a 16 gauge for the field, surrounding them in full length shrink tubing

PS - lock washer on right didn't get in the photo, sorry, but it is there
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Install the mounting bracket.
Using a 15mm wrench reinstall the rear bolt for the alternator bracket then use a 13mm wrench to install the front two fasteners for the bracket
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Carefully slide the new alternator over and under, and around to its resting position
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Install the pivot bolt, its rear spacer and nylock fastener.
Tighten lightly with two 19mm wrenches but do not secure yet
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Using one 17mm wrench, lightly fasten the top positioning bolt
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Install the new belt and examine for correct alignment across pulleys - you're almost finished!
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Greetings, Scott.

I believe you are missing a Very Important Part: The alternator heat shield! For reference, I scanned from the Spare Parts Catalogue covering cars N. 2132-2766. It is shown in TAV. 37 as N. Fig. 17. As I recall, this deflector may have a slightly different design for your later car. I'm sure you know that it gets mighty toasty in the cramped engine bay. Your fresh alternator deserves all the protection it can get; you don't want to find out how much faster "all subsequent times" are!

Referring to TAV. 12, we can see in your pics that the shields for the forward bulkhead (2) and for the collector (26) are present. How about those for the starter motor (25--or 30 in TAV. 37) & for the right axle (6)?

I, too, thank you for adding to our corporate knowledge. That's one wheel I'd not like to reinvent!

Coop
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COOP - I see the heatshield installed. Looks correct to me.

Jim S.

 

Hi Guys,

I don't see It.

In the pictures in Scott's post #2, the alternator is in plain sight directly above the primary pipes (look between them) & I can only see the large front bulkhead shield (TAV. 12, N. 2) that's mounted to the tabs on the 'outside' of the headers, just touching the soon-to-be-removed collector shield (TAV. 12, N. 26). In #s 3 & 4, we can still see the primary pipes below the alternator. In fact, the mounting tab for the bulkhead shield is hiding in plain sight, below & just to the right of the spot where the red wire peaks out of the black casing! The other tab, just below the right edge of the fan, is the forward mounting point for the collector shield. In #8, the primaries are right there, with oil spatters on them.

I still don't see It.

Moving right along, in #s 14-16, the primaries are still visible. The alternator shield (TAV 37, N. 17) should obscure a large portion of the primaries. In #17 & 18, the pipes are still visible directly under the alternator. Of course, the collector shield has yet to be installed, but that will just cover the bend in the primaries & the point where they merge into the collector.

It may be/have been there all along, but It escapes me.

Jim, help me see the Light!
Scott, is It...or is It not?

Searching,
Coop

 

The heatshield over the lower exhaust manifold is there, but you're coorect that the alternator heat shield is missing. I see now it wasn't on the Dino when I bought the car - looks like I'll have to fab one up. Our FCA Tech Director has a spare Dino engine in his shop with the heat shield and I can use that as a template.

I did assemble it and it started fine with successful charging indicated, see photo.

Scott
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I love it when a plan comes together, Scott. 'nice reward for work well done. While you're in that neck o' the woods, have you recently checked the connectors on your ammeter to ensure that they are clean, corrosion-free and tight? Also check out your fuse blocks for clean contacts & minimal heat buildup. Don't forget the big honker on the engine compartment side of the cockpit bulkhead. Go back to this thread & refresh your memory and your gauge.

http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=117643&highlight=amp+gauge

As soon as I finish the CV change on our Austin Cooper S, I'll get back to the Dino & practice what I preach! I, too, am missing the alternator heat shield, as well as the bulkhead & right axle shields. The Dino's hibernating on a friend's lift, just waiting for me to get busy.

Good luck with the fab. It should be pretty straight forward with your friend's shield avail as a pattern. Let us know/see how it turns out!

Thanks again for documenting your work.
Coop

 

Coop - I may be mistaken. Then again, it may be semantics. The alternator heat shield appears to be in place. This separates the alternator from the sweeping exhaust header immediately above it. The heat shield that covers the exhaust manifold where it joins the muffler pipe is not in place. However, I believe that this shield is used to protect 1) the heat exchanger oil line that runs immediately above it and 2) the alternator belt. I have not thought of this lower heat shield, sitting on top of the junction of the manifold and muffler pipe, as a shield for the alternator.

Jim S.

 

Congratulations Scott. Was it the diodes? No heat shield might have let them get too hot. Those exhaust pipes get RED. Thanks for the pictures and the education.
John