Gear select | FerrariChat

Gear select

Discussion in '206/246' started by Dino SA, Mar 17, 2008.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

  1. Dino SA

    Dino SA Rookie

    Mar 17, 2008
    16
    Yesterday my little black beast started to let me down. The gear selector in second and fifth gear was very stiff, in fact on some occasions I was unable to put it into gear. To get out of gear took a lot of double de-clutching and slowly easing the of the gear stick out of gear. Very embarrassing on a Ferrari run here in Cape Town. Has anyone experienced this before? Is it merely the gear selector, or is it something more ominous?
     
  2. John Corbani

    John Corbani Formula 3
    Honorary Owner

    May 5, 2005
    1,153
    Santa Barbara, CA
    Full Name:
    John Corbani
    If it were me, I would get the car up on a lift NOW. Might have slipped linkage at the universal joint by the transmission. Problem would be in rotation and a degree is significant. Use Search and take a look at my Dino Saga 060212. If it looks like the shift linkage is free, and has not slipped, bite the bullet and just drain the gearbox and look for metal. If almost no oil, and no metal, you might be lucky. You could fill the gearbox and try driving. Better is to just drop the gearbox cover. Make sure that you get all springs, detent balls and spacers on the left edge. Look at everything as someone else shifts. It is possible a shift lever has slipped on a shaft. Just for insurance, get a wrench on each clamp and make sure it is tight. A sudden problem like this is probably connected with something slipping or stuck rather than a synchro going bad. Good Luck.
    John
     
  3. synchro

    synchro F1 Veteran

    Feb 14, 2005
    9,294
    CHNDLR
    Full Name:
    Scott
    Check the gear oil level
     
  4. dan360

    dan360 F1 Rookie

    Feb 18, 2003
    2,669
    Boston
    Could also be clutch related - had similar symptoms on my 288 and it was a throwout bearing problem which was causing the clutch to drag. Not an inexpensive fix, but much cheaper than gearbox. Interesting the clutch plate was actually cheaper than the part for a TR.
     
  5. Dino SA

    Dino SA Rookie

    Mar 17, 2008
    16
    Many thanks John--we will have a look at it. Many thanks also for the very informative piece in Dino Saga 060212.

    Regards

    James
     
  6. DinoDriver

    DinoDriver Formula Junior

    Mar 14, 2005
    537
    Leesburg, VA
    Full Name:
    Bill Ebert
    #6 DinoDriver, Mar 22, 2008
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Dino SA,

    Whoa! Let's not assume the worse! If you had no warnings like sound or vibration prior to this "failure," first thing to check is the shifter box. The shifter rod is polished steel which goes through a bare aluminum hole at the front and back of the shifter box - no protective sleeve or lubricated grove. With time steel rubbing against the aluminum causes binding and possible damage to the aluminum. Try this first:

    1. Undo the small screws holding down the center tunnel plastic/fiberglass cover.
    2. Unscrew the two screws hold the shift pattern plate in place.
    3. Raise the tunnel cover just enough to be able to generously spray WD-40 or a penetrating oil on the shift rod where it goes into the shifter box at the FRONT AND REAR.
    4. Lower everything back into place, screw down the shift pattern plate, sit in the driver's seat, clutch in and try all the gears. If this was the problem, you'll know quickly that you don't have a serious problem.

    The picture below shows the lower half of the shifter box laying in place with the shift rod laying in the front and rear 1/2 holes. As I said - steel rod / aluminum box. Not good engineering! The upper half comes down on top of this to form what you will see as the completely assembled shift box when you raise the tunnel cover. Be sure you get lub on both the front and rear rod where it goes into and out of the box.

    Hope this helps,

    Bill
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
     
  7. synchro

    synchro F1 Veteran

    Feb 14, 2005
    9,294
    CHNDLR
    Full Name:
    Scott
    Hey, I tried to be helpful too!
     
  8. DinoDriver

    DinoDriver Formula Junior

    Mar 14, 2005
    537
    Leesburg, VA
    Full Name:
    Bill Ebert
    Nothing like trying the simplest things first. Bingo!

    Bill
     
  9. Dino SA

    Dino SA Rookie

    Mar 17, 2008
    16
    To Scott. My warmest apologies. In my mind yours was the logical solution--so I never printed it out. I did print out the other two replies. So in my post of yesterday, and in my gloom, I forgot to add your name. So apologies again!
     
  10. synchro

    synchro F1 Veteran

    Feb 14, 2005
    9,294
    CHNDLR
    Full Name:
    Scott
    No worries, no apologies needed.
    First thing to check when shifting becomes irregular is the lubricant.
    Transaxle fluid can get scorched too and will have a bluish (or worse) tone to it; then again Swepco 201 stars out as green which isn't tthat far from your stated "blue" color. (PS - my Euro Dino loves Swepco) Another gear oil that gets repeatedly good marks in Ferrarichat transaxle discussions is Redline 75-90W NS.

    I'd run either oil (Swepco or Redline) as my first choice over all brands out there, although some other good ones are on the market so I don't mean to be completely exclusionary.
     
  11. DinoDriver

    DinoDriver Formula Junior

    Mar 14, 2005
    537
    Leesburg, VA
    Full Name:
    Bill Ebert
    +1 on the Redline. No noticeable difference for about 100 miles, then the shifts get smoother and easier . . . even first to second on a cold day is improved. Not familiar with Swepco.

    Bill
     

Share This Page