No Reverse after changing Shaft oril seal

I had the same problem.

Eugenio Installed a new Shift Shaft Bearing (See pic.)

Now she runs through just fine.

Jeff
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Chris,

I am at the same place you are having upgraded my sump baffle, and replacing the shift shaft seals. Here is a link to follow that expalins the adjustment process. I am working on this and will report my progress. I'd like to hear how it goes for you.

Dan

http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=114406&highlight=shift+shaft+alignment

 

Dan,

I hope you're upgrading to the QUAD-RING® Seals when replacing the shift shaft seals:

http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/showpost.php?p=135474269&postcount=66

I did this two years ago and no leaks so far. The shifter is just a bit stiffer, but not objectionably so.

Barry

 

It's a bushing, rubber sandwiched between a pair of steel sleeves. The FPC calls it a SilentBloc.

You may want to consider these as an alternative:

http://ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=173230

Either shift system alignment, or a bad shift bushing can cause the 'no reverse' problem.

 

Are you saying that you can get 1st gear but not reverse?

 

Barry,

Yes, I went with the quad-ring seals. I like the "stiff" feel. They sent something like 10 seals in the order. Now I am reading and working on getting the shifting alignment correct. There are some good posts, but the tools Verell mentioned would sure help.

Dan

 

Dan, Send me your address & I'll get you a pair of bushing & shift alignment tools out ASAP to get you out of this bind.

I've got to pull a tranny apart before I can design & make the 3rd tool, so it'll be a few weeks.

 

Dan,

Good to hear. With the Quad-Rings, it will be a long time until you'll have to replace them again. They're a much better design than the stock O-Rings. The stiifness will ease a bit after 1,000 miles or so.

Barry

 

Well I gave up trying to adjust the linkage so I took the car into Gary Bobileff in San Diego. He did the major and a few other things as well as the shift adjustment. In the past two weeks I may have put about 200 miles on the car. This past Friday I took the wife out for a ride and hit every red light. About half way through the drive the car stalled at a light. After some time I realized that 1st and reverse are gone. I will call Gary tomorrow. It seems the shift bushings were fine when I replace the seals on the shift shaft but maybe this is the cause for the adjustment to go out so soon?

Veryl I am still interested in those adjustment tools if and when they become available. Thanks so much.

Dan Cookson

 

What special tools do you need for this?

I know lining up the internal mechanism takes some special kit but external shift linkage adjustment is pretty straightforward . . what's going on?

Sean

 

I wish I knew. Went by and talked with Gary. He said bring it in and they will check it out..... once it's adjusted it should stay adjusted. The bushing on the shift shaft connector seems like new. No cracks or looseness observed. I will report what is discovered tomorrow. I did read a post last night that outlined a through procedure to adjust the shift linkage. This is assuming the internal adjustments are correct.

Dan

 

THE ONLY WAY to check this all out is to remove the tranny oil pan.........be careful with the 3 detent springs , 3 balls and one spacer that will come out with the pan...........have a good look at the shifter forks...........once you have it off , have someone go inside the car and place the car in 2nd gear, look at the position of the main shift fork, it should be right in the middle of the 3 shifter linkages, if it is not, you will have to undo the locknuts in the shift linkage, you will have to remove the gas tank cover to access this........this can take some time to get it just right, you want the shift fork dead in the middle of the linkage, once it is done, go to 1st , it should grab it dead in the center, then go to reverse, should be the same, try 4th and 5th , should be the same, the adjustment is very finikey, it's not NASA work, but once you look at it , it's a piece of cake, make sure you put the balls in with grease to hold them into the holes, with the springs, the spacer goes in the first hole nearest the starter, again not rocket science .........I just did it myself .............

 

Hopefully you don't have an internal problem . .. next time bring your car up here and we'll look at it. I've been thru a few 308 gearboxes .

In another thread someone mentioned to check for broken motor mounts. FWIW I upgraded to some polyurethane motor mounts 'cause I could tell my car was harder to shift during heavy cornering at the track . . . the mounts helped but it can still be challenging going 3-4 or 4-3 under heavy cornering loads (actually shouldn't be down shifting in the middle of a corner anyway but sometimes people spin in front of you ) . .. on the straight she shifts like a dream even under full power.

Sean

 

Sean,

Thanks for the offer. I want to get up your way just to show you the car.

I dropped the car off at Gary Bobileff's this morning. He found the problem almost immediately, fixed it, and also caught a potential disaster (the electrical lead to the fuel pump was hanging on by a thread). The amazing thing was it turned out to be something I caused and not Gary. I have to tell you, he is one stand up guy. He wouldn't let me pay him anything. He just asked that I post on it on F-Chat due to several people calling him and questioning his ability to adjust the linkage on a 308. Gary has been nothing but generous with his time and helpful to me.

Apparently when changing the shift shaft seals (prior to taking it to Gary for the major), I neglected to tighten the nut holding the wheel fork to the shift shaft when replacing the parts. The nut had worked its way off the bolt, and it was in the process of falling out completely. Thank God for guarding angels and Gary Bobileff.

Dan Cookson
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That's totally cool of him.