Need help! Door lock and unlock buttons are not working on my 348

Look for broken wires on the AMP connectors in the door jambs... pull the rubber boot back and you'll probably find some wires that have broken off the pins. This is the cause for the vast majority of people who have had this problem... myself included.

 

Just to clarify - are you saying that the buttons do not work at all, even with the key, or are you saying that the buttons simply will not function using the console switch?

I suppose the first thing to check is fuse #4 in the step pad fuse box. This fuse is also supposed to be the power source for the radio, and you say that the radio is working, but it's entirely possible that the radio has been rewired through another power source. The control relay / ECU for the central door locking is a box which is located behind the step pad fuse box.

Do you any kind of a "clicking" noise when you operate the push button on the console, either from the doors or from the fuse panel area? When you lock the drivers door with the key, does the push button go down on either door?

Does your car have a remote locking button on a key fob?

 

I am sorry to hear this is happening I guess I got lucky by resetting the battery?

Fiddle with the fuse panel? I remember when I first got the car, I was down there (removing some aftermarked stereo amp) and noticed the alarm wires are "Scotch tapped" into the door lock wires. Perhaps soldering these connections would help. Maybe they are shorting or offering resistance to the door locks.

The wires in the AMP connectors are fine

 

Yellow flag #1. No 348 ever shipped with remote door lock/unlock. A previous owner has installed an after-market alarm or device. I'd start br tracking down boxes associated with that.


*My 348 has fob unlock/lock too... it is an aftermarket Clifford system I think, with a remote labeled "DEI". When I bought the car, it was totally dead. A new battery in the remote, and the whole thing came to life

 

Because the 348 has the "central locking system", it uses an ECU for the locks, therefore the wiring to the buttons is simplified. The 2 alarm system trigger wires for the door lock/unlock are simply tapped into the car wiring (1 wire to each button), essentially leaving the factory wiring in tact. Even the dumbest installer would have no reason to cut or otherwise splice the factory wires. Therefore, I'm confident in saying, the chance that the alarm has anything to do with your problem, are slim to none.
The buttons, relays, and fuses are all wired BEFORE the doors, so if you're positive that you'r relays dont click when you press the buttons, they you certainly have a power, or ECU problem.

Remember, this is a CENTRAL locking system... Try this test:
Make sure BOTH doors are unlocked, press the lock button, you should hear the relay click in the passenger footwell.
Make sure BOTH doors are locked, press the unlock button, you should hear the relay click in the passenger footwell.

No relay clicks.... no power at the ECU, bad connection at the ECU, or bad ECU
relays click.... absolutely HAS to be the AMP pins.

I am 100% positive about everything I stated above, I have done VERY EXTENSIVE work and testing to my central locking system and know exactly how it works. BTW, if you determine that the ECU is bad, dont go looking for the Ferrari one for $3000.00, its the same simple universal ECU circuit that is used in EVERY car with central locking. You can buy a central locking system kit on ebay for $30-$40, and use the ECU that comes with it!!

 

If i'm understanding this correctly, it sounds like maybe the driver door actuator thinks its in the locked state all the times, which would require the actuator to be replaced. The actuator has little switches inside it that tells the ECU what position each lock is in. Or its also possible (but unlikely) that the ECU may have some logic problem. The door pins (for domelight) also play into the logic circuit... I would start by cleaning contacts, wiggling wont necessarily cause ALL the bad connections on that plug to make contact again.

 

Good thread so far, I have central locking system woes as well go figure..

I will try wiggling the wires in the foot well where you suggested, but I think mine will be a different problem...sigh

Hope all goes well for you keep posting.

 

Well, if your theory is correct, then you need to dig deeper into the AMP connectors to look for broken wires... each door actuator has 5 wires that go to it... if any one of the 3 wires from each actuator that reports positioning, is not reporting to the ECU, the whole system will act nutz! I'm afraid thats about all the help I can be without seeing the car myself and doing some testing in person.

 

I actually dont, maybe Daniel can help with that one, and I think the primer has info on that too.
I didnt trouble myself with trying to fix those stupid pins and opted to do the fix, probably within the 1st month I had the car... fixed all my lock AND window problems in 1 afternoon... permanantely!

http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=124202

 

Are you saying that somebody did the fix on your car... and used butt connectors to do it!?! I'm confused by your statements, and with as many times as I have referred to those AMP conectors, you have never mentioned that you didnt have them anymore.

So, the locks stopped working again... and no clicking relays... all it can be is a power (hot OR ground) problem. The fact they WERE working for a bit, tells me that the ECU is probably ok.
If you can chill till the weekend, i'll run some tests on mine to determine what pin/wire on the ECU does what.