Is this from the CV joint?

Are you sure it is greese and not grease? could it be from the flywheel area?

 

That sucks--Hopefully it won't be a major expense to repair..

 

It'll cost very little if you DIY. It should be OK to drive some, just not 500 miles. The CVs are pretty hardy, and obviously not dry. This happens all the time to CV boots. IIRC they are the same as 90's Porsche. At a good parts store, or from one of our suppliers (Daniel). They're not terribly expensive, but if you take it to she shop, it's for sure they'll sell you new CVs as well-bigger bucks. YOU CAN HEAR THEM IF THEY'RE BAD, AND THEY MUST NOT BE because if they were you'd be asking about the "clicking" sound bad ones make. It's not a hard job, but a little greasy. Unbolt the CV at the tranny and at the hub (the other end) and remove the axle. Once unbolted, the CVs will come off. You'll cut off the old boot, put in a LIBERAL amount of new CV grease, and affix a new boot with the straps provided. Make sure you know which axle came from which side, and which end is outboard. Bolt it back on good and tight. Notice as you're putting it back on that a flat on the nuts is retained by a groove in the axle hub. If you get in a jam, just post the problem and we'll get you through it. New boots= $50 or so DIY. New CVs and new boots at a shop $500 or so. I recommend latex gloves from Harbor Freight! (I'm gonna get flamed for this, I'm sure)

 

Vegas, just replaced both boots on PX axle. I wrote up a little blurb about the easiest way to do this. You will want to get the boots from Porsche, might be a week or so out,....also get a bearing puller, and exterior snap ring pliers, shouldnt be that hard. If you have trouble with my method, try removing the cats, will give you more clearance, if your caliper feed lines dont have enough slack, then unbolt them. Its not that hard and if the joints are OK shouldnt cost more than $60 and that includes the pliers, puller, and boots. $90 for both axles.

http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=194127&highlight=cv

 

Yes, what he said!

 

Mmmmmm, CV grease, may i suggest you wear some very old clothes, there is a good chance you will want to throw out what every your wearing when your done with this job. Never tackled this on a F-car but i have on plenty of front wheel drivers, take your time and you should be fine.

 

The big hassle here is getting the bolts loose and then tightened properly when you're done.

 

Reg, I wanna be like you when I grow up! I talked to "your mechanic" today too, about doing my cooling system flush. I got the usual "i'll have to look at what I have going on, and get back to you on that" thing I always get. Anyway, your issue is way more important, and I would have graciously stepped down for you anyway.
Cya on Saturday! I'm lookin forward to it... altho i'm gonna feel kindof stupid hangin out in my LVMS "Official" garb.

 

Isn't that the truth!

Those things are on gorilla tight, but they will come off. The easiest thing I found was to slip a screw driver into the cooling slots on the edge of the break rotor to lock the axle in place. The screw driver will lock against the caliper, then you can torque off the allen bolts. Just be sure you have them ALL the way in the allen hole so you don't strip it. I also had to put a cheater bar on the end of my long handle ratchet to get enough leverage on the bolt. Those sucker were on TIGHT!!!

It isn't a hard job, just really messy.

 

Well, you're a good guy Reg, and I would voluntarily bump something like a dumb coolant flush for your critical problem anytime buddy
I didnt see where I was required to RSVP, but I will call Reed 1st thing in the morning. He practically begged me to participate when we were at the Hooters thing, I told him I couldn't... but I figured out how I can make it work, but I gotta go straight to the track when its over.

 

Its an easy, messy job.

But I deal with grease every day at work, so it would be a walk in the park for Pappy.

You should have seen how greased/oiled up I was after yesterdays shift.