Rear spoiler removal

4 nuts. 2 are up inside the buttress, will take some acrobatics to get to them.

 

Tom,

Are you removing for paint or removing alltogether? I'm lookng for one.

Best,

Jack.

 

How do you restore the louvres without taking them out of the lid? No need to remove the wing.

 

Not to be a detail ******bag, but I think the original finish was anodized black, not paint. If you don't care, no worries then.

-w-

 

My Euro has the 4 holes under the buttress only two nuts appear to be holing it - the two closest to the rear of the car (???) Flexing the spoiler, I can see nothing dropping through the forward areas either.

 

Did anabody figured out how to remove this darn roof spoiler.I see the 4 bolts but how do you get to the front ones?
Did Ferrari used a special tool or what?
Thanks all for your help

 

Hi Big Red,

My car has three punched out access holes on each side, implying that some spoilers may have had three studs on each side. But my spoiler only has two studs each side (no fronts) and there was no evidence it ever had them. The body topside only had two holes each side too. (???)

The hardest access (for mine) was the middle stud(s). I was able to do mine by using a 1/4" drive short socket on a 1/4" "U" joint and a long extention and just patiently "work it". The angle is steep but I found it doable. It's all in the wrist. Just be careful not to let the socket, nut or U joint fall inside the frame's hollow sheetmetal passages when you go to extract it (guess how I know). THAT'S the real bear. A small telescoping pickup magnet was my friend there.

Putting it back is almost harder in that to get the nut back on, I had to insert a shaped piece of rubber vacuum line into the socket so the nut would stay up top of it. Also, wrap a piece of tape around the socket and catch some of the nut to keep it from falling off while fishing back onto the spoiler studs.

BTW - I installed new stainless steel Nylox nuts and flat washers to really keep them from ever getting loose by themselves.

Good Luck!!
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Thanks Bob.Realy appreciate your help.

 

I have some builds to chairpilot’s post on aerofoil installation. I can easily remove and install my wing now in 30 minutes or less with the engine cover in place. Mine has four M6 nuts, 11mm OD lock washers and 18mm OD flat washers. I used a 4” long ¼” drive wobble extension, 1” long ¼” drive extension, ¼” universal joint, two 10mm sockets, 1” piece of thin-wall ½” OD 3/8” ID rubber tubing (e.g. surgical tubing), and duct tape.

I ground down one of the sockets so that the M6 nut sits flush with the surface, slipped the tubing over the U-joint to keep it upright and limit its motion, wrapped a 2” x ½” strip of duct tape around the socket leaving ¼” extended above the surface, and sliced the exposed tape creating 5 tape “ears.” I then cleaned the flat washer, bent back the tape ears, inserted the nut/lock washer/flat washer, then pressed the tape ears to top surface of the flat washer and trimmed off any excess. This results in a stable, controllable way to direct the nut and washers onto each stud without dropping anything.

Regarding access, each side of the engine cover has two 20mm holes facing down and one 30mm hole on the side. For all 4 studs, insert the tool up through the rear 20mm hole and guide it by watching through the 30mm hole with a mag light. Once on the stud, spin the nut on half way then remove the tool by tugging on it which will separate the tape from the flat washer (you will need new tape for each flat washer). Finish tightening the forward nuts by using the tool with a normal depth 10mm socket. The rearward nuts are easiest to tighten with a 10mm open end wrench through the 30mm hole.

Pictures show the tool assembly (Harbor Freight), nut and washers held onto the socket, and the nut being spun onto one of the forward (hardest to access) studs.
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Typical Ferrari engineering.

Anyone tried to remove the oil pressure pedestal on a carb car?