Rear spoiler removal

Although there appear to be 2 access holes on each side I can only see one nut. Is the whole wing held down by just 2 nuts or am I missing something?

Thanks

 

4 nuts. 2 are up inside the buttress, will take some acrobatics to get to them.

 

Tom,

Are you removing for paint or removing alltogether? I'm lookng for one.

Best,

Jack.

 

Hi,

I'm restoring the rear deck louvres and screen so taking the wing off will make it a lot easier.

 

How do you restore the louvres without taking them out of the lid? No need to remove the wing.

 

You have 2 options. You can remove the entire louvre/screen assembly and refinish it off the car, but that requires popping a whole bunch of rivets. Since mine are all solid with no vibration or noise I've elected to repaint without removing. All you need to do is carefully mask off where you don't want paint to go, both on the topside and underside. THEN you have to mask off the the open areas you want to paint on the top side and respray from underneath. Then when dry mask off the underside (I also covered the engine) and spray the top side. I've found Krylon paint (HI TEMP) as well as others which perfectly match the various blacks on the car (flat and satin semi-gloss). Also, a BMW touch up kit of Schwartz (sp?) is an excellent match for the original Ferrari black for small chips.

 

Not to be a detail ******bag, but I think the original finish was anodized black, not paint. If you don't care, no worries then.

-w-

 

Thanks for the input. What I do is look around at pics or actual cars if possible, then try to replicate the finish/look to match the way it was originally. I have about a dozen test patches of various blacks in flat, lustre, satin, etc. etc. From those I pick the one that most closely matches the original.

Of course, I want the car to look like when it was new, but I confess that my #1 priority is driving. Appearances are great, but none of my cars are garage queens. I love to drive and that's my focus. At 52 years of age it's the driving that does it for me. I have a kid to clean, detail, and wax. When I was 16 applying 3 coats of wax was a labour of love and I enjoyed doing it. Now... it's just labour. (-;

 

My Euro has the 4 holes under the buttress only two nuts appear to be holing it - the two closest to the rear of the car (???) Flexing the spoiler, I can see nothing dropping through the forward areas either.

 

Did anabody figured out how to remove this darn roof spoiler.I see the 4 bolts but how do you get to the front ones?
Did Ferrari used a special tool or what?
Thanks all for your help

 

Hi Big Red,

My car has three punched out access holes on each side, implying that some spoilers may have had three studs on each side. But my spoiler only has two studs each side (no fronts) and there was no evidence it ever had them. The body topside only had two holes each side too. (???)

The hardest access (for mine) was the middle stud(s). I was able to do mine by using a 1/4" drive short socket on a 1/4" "U" joint and a long extention and just patiently "work it". The angle is steep but I found it doable. It's all in the wrist. Just be careful not to let the socket, nut or U joint fall inside the frame's hollow sheetmetal passages when you go to extract it (guess how I know). THAT'S the real bear. A small telescoping pickup magnet was my friend there.

Putting it back is almost harder in that to get the nut back on, I had to insert a shaped piece of rubber vacuum line into the socket so the nut would stay up top of it. Also, wrap a piece of tape around the socket and catch some of the nut to keep it from falling off while fishing back onto the spoiler studs.

BTW - I installed new stainless steel Nylox nuts and flat washers to really keep them from ever getting loose by themselves.

Good Luck!!
Image Unavailable, Please Login
Image Unavailable, Please Login
Image Unavailable, Please Login
Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

Thanks Bob.Realy appreciate your help.

 

I have some builds to chairpilot’s post on aerofoil installation. I can easily remove and install my wing now in 30 minutes or less with the engine cover in place. Mine has four M6 nuts, 11mm OD lock washers and 18mm OD flat washers. I used a 4” long ¼” drive wobble extension, 1” long ¼” drive extension, ¼” universal joint, two 10mm sockets, 1” piece of thin-wall ½” OD 3/8” ID rubber tubing (e.g. surgical tubing), and duct tape.

I ground down one of the sockets so that the M6 nut sits flush with the surface, slipped the tubing over the U-joint to keep it upright and limit its motion, wrapped a 2” x ½” strip of duct tape around the socket leaving ¼” extended above the surface, and sliced the exposed tape creating 5 tape “ears.” I then cleaned the flat washer, bent back the tape ears, inserted the nut/lock washer/flat washer, then pressed the tape ears to top surface of the flat washer and trimmed off any excess. This results in a stable, controllable way to direct the nut and washers onto each stud without dropping anything.

Regarding access, each side of the engine cover has two 20mm holes facing down and one 30mm hole on the side. For all 4 studs, insert the tool up through the rear 20mm hole and guide it by watching through the 30mm hole with a mag light. Once on the stud, spin the nut on half way then remove the tool by tugging on it which will separate the tape from the flat washer (you will need new tape for each flat washer). Finish tightening the forward nuts by using the tool with a normal depth 10mm socket. The rearward nuts are easiest to tighten with a 10mm open end wrench through the 30mm hole.

Pictures show the tool assembly (Harbor Freight), nut and washers held onto the socket, and the nut being spun onto one of the forward (hardest to access) studs.
Image Unavailable, Please Login
Image Unavailable, Please Login
Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

Typical Ferrari engineering.

Anyone tried to remove the oil pressure pedestal on a carb car?