Belt Change / Valve Adjustment / Electromotive Install

About a week ago I developed a noise that I think I've narrowed down to the tensioner bearing. Being paranoid and not wanting to lose a belt, I decided to go ahead and dive into a full out belt/tensioner change, valve adjustment and cam timing check. I'm also seriously kicking around ordering and installing an Electromotive while I'm at it. (We'll see...)

Yesterday, I removed the hood and that was about it. Tonight, I've removed the airbox, engine brace as well as the distributors and spark plugs. (MAN are they easy with no hood!!!!) All has gone well so far. I'll get up in the AM and start on the A/C compressor (its coming out for good.) and the belt covers.

Side note.....When I very first got the car, I drove it for a few hundred miles and changed the spark plugs. While doing so I found that the front bank plugs looked horrible! I figured that some lazy mechanic did not want to get back there and blew it off. Well, I think that I was wrong on that one....The last pictures show that the front bank plugs look terrible, especially when you compare them to the fronts. Any ideas here? The #8 plug was somewhat loose, but otherwise the only thing that I can think of is that the car was washed a couple times and water got down the front of the motor... The car runs exceptionally well despite these ugly plugs.
Thoughts?

JIM
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Keep the photos coming Jim. Those plugs do look a little second hand thats for sure. I note you mentioned the A/C compressor is coming out for good. Does it not get hot where you live?

Looking forward to following this one.

 

95deg. F today and HUMID!!! The AC just does not work well. Here's how I describe it.....Drive the car on a day like that and stick your arm out the window, no AC on. Then roll the windows up, turn on the AC....that's the coolest its going to get in the cabin. The nice part is that the area of the country that we live in is very seasonal. We get all 4 seasons here, so its never that hot/humid for long...

All the plugs were changed by me last year. I did have the issue with with missing after the car was washed. The culiprit was damp spark plug holes. I wonder if the introduction of water down there discolored the plugs like this?

JIM

 

Yes the water did that, the holes were full at one time....or more than once. Aside from washing the engine I would bet washing the car would have contributed too, or driving in the rain. Im not familiar with the GT4 body seals but there must be something to stop water ingress under the back window area like a seal or a shield where the lid meets the body.

 

Jim,

Good luck with it.

I got to hand it to you man, when you do a job it gets done.

I like your thinking on the AC and Electromotive. My AC works but i never used it. I was thinking of taking mine out too. It will clean out the bay area and you will lose like 20lbs maybe?

 

It was detailed last year after the repairs were completed. They really used a TON of water! My trunk seals don't do their job 100%, so it was plenty damp in there. Several days of a high speed fan blowing in there. I'm sure the front bank got it then and one other time I wasn't paying attention and let water run off the roof, down the back window. That's when I had a misfire and found the #5 plug hole was wet. Otherwise, no rain and no washing above the beltline.

JIM

 

I've got early distributors and am thinking of selling those as once I go electronic....there aint no going back!!!!!!!!!!!
A/C pump is worthless and I have to move it to pull the front belt covers, so now is a good time to just remove it! I bet it weights *atleast* 20lbs!!!

JIM

 

Jim,
For what it's worth, Verell helped me convert my 308 to R134a a couple years ago and it works pretty well. No, the cabin is not arctic, but the AC is a hell of a lot better than the windows being open on a hot hot day. I have to top it off every other year though.

DO NOT sell your distributors. They are part of your car's heritage and the next owner might want to put them back on for originality. Please, put them in a box with some good packing material, tape it up and stash it for the next owner.

Birdman

 

It's hard to be sure from the photo angle but your plugs look pretty rich to me While your at it post better pics and also run it by in the plug reading thread.

 

Jin I might suggest you make up a channel at the top of the front firewll just under the engine lid hinges.I custom made one out of stainless and nomore water enters the front spark wells.Here is a pic.I once posted the dimensions but can't seem to find it
http://img210.imageshack.us/img210/5561/p1100637tx3.jpg

 

On Friday night I removed the distributors, wires, etc..., got RR wheel off, shroud out. I managed to get the A/C pulled last night along with the belt covers. Tedious work. I had to double nut a couple of the studs to pull them as there is not enough clearance to pull the rear cover due to the frame. Now I understand all the labor involved and why Major Services are pricey.
Coolant is drained, parts are bagged up and now I just have to pull the valve covers and I'll be ready for the 'meat' of this project.

I do have one issue, however.... On my rear bank distributor cap, the middle contact point is stuck in position. (pic) I pulled it to remove the piercing screw and put the spring loaded contact back in place. Well, it pushed down and is stuck. Any ideas on how to get that little bugger out???

I did not get any more done today as the weather was beautiful and I was *forced* to golf, and then a spontaneous neighborhood party broke out in our driveway..... The real progress on this project (as with the suspension rebuild) will come on weekdays as my Wife works nights and it gives me time to tinker once the girls are in bed. Usually from 9 or 10 until 1am or so...

BTW, the A/C compressor weighs in at 26lbs!!!
JIM
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Try putting a small drop of light glue (not epoxy or krazy), or silicone on the end of a blunt stick and attaching it to the carbon button.

 

try heating the dist cap and give it a little tap. the heat should expand the cap and the tap should dislodge it.

 

Next question:
Is there a trick to removing the bolt that holds the drive gear on the distributor end of the camshaft. The dist. is off and I need to get the aluminum piece between the motor and the distributor... I bent the tab back and put a wrench on it, but it looks like the cam will want to rotate so I stopped.

JIM

 

Post a picture Jim. I am not familiar with what you are asking about. The drive gear slips over the cam-shaft and is held in place by a pin.

 

I'm referring to the other end. I have a very early distributor. Ill post a pic tonite...

Jim

 

Hi Jim,

This is the same set-up as the BB. You're trying to remove the aluminum mounting adapter that the distributor bolts to/through (the head) to replace the oil seal...yes?

Typically, I use an air wrench to shock that bolt off, while holding the cam either with a wrench, if you have "flats", or with a pair of vice grips, if you don't. The use of the air wrench pretty much ensures that the bolt will come off, versus the cam turning.

Regards,
David

 

Thanks David!!! I don't have 'flats' however I do have air tools and vice grips! I'm assuming the threads are standard direction.

TIA,

JIM

 

Jim,

Yep...Standard thread direction. You'll find that a thin wall socket will just fit into the recess.

I've never liked this set-up, as it always made me a bit nervous tightening the bolt. I believe that the WSM states a torque of 70-80 ft-lbs. In that there's no appreciable load on this bolt, other than driving the distributor, I just put a dab a loctite red on the threads and hit the bolt (qucikly) with a 3/8" air wrench.

And pressing the seal "backwards" into the distributor housing is another "joyful" job!

Good luck and call me if you need moral support...LOL!

Take care,
David

 

Plugs were rusted from the water for sure... front bank under the window drip line, do you have the early style seals? They can dry and crack, then leak..note later ones became a totally different design! Ineed to replace mine also...

I am always up for buying a salvage YORK compressor....talk to me!


When you toss the distributors, I'd be interested also......that's a big step though....

I see the black seals on your wires now, looking....that's the style my early GTBs use....

 

I find that anytime I want to remove tight things from the cam shafts, I have to remove the shafts, put them into a vise, and then use impact air tools.

 

Uh..... I need an update. Sadly, this is the only form of entertainment I have time for now. If I can find some time, I want to drive over to Jims to see the progress.

 

Enzo,

Call me tomorrow. I'll be up by 6am. I'll give you an update and a tour of a 1/2 torn down motor.

I have the rear cam cover off ...pic in a little while.

JIM

 

Well, I got the rear bank valve cover off tonight and that was about it. Unfortunately, my socket does not fit the front bolt very well. Not sure why, but it held the rear better. Tomorrow, I'll go out and pick up a new socket and get that bad boy off....

I have to order more parts and a new Electromotive ignition tomorrow. !!!

JIM
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BTW Jim, whats an Electromotive unit?