Magneti Marelli BKL 3B

Dear Ferraristi,

Does anyone know a good source for a Magnetti Marelli BKL 3B module that sits on top of the coil on my 91 Testarossa?


Yeah, it was quite a story to get to be able to ask this question.

Here's my story.....

http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?p=137852562#post137852562


I would appreciate any assistance



Shamile

Freeze....Miami Vice !

 

Hi Shamile,
This link is for the part you are looking for... Ferrari #124273M Marelli BKL 3B
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/New-Ignition-Coil-Electronic-Module-4-Ferrari-328-TR_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1742Q2em153Q2el1262QQcategoryZ33689QQihZ012QQitemZ220254984394QQtcZphoto

 

Oh sure....now I get the link.

Well, with the help of Norwoods Performance, he led me to your website anyway. I ordered it from y'all ( Serio was great help )and just got it.

Put it in my TR today and all 12 cylinders firing! ....yeah, Freeze...Miami Vice !


Shamile

Freeze...Miami Vice !

 

For the future, Trutlands has them in stock, $126 bucks. I keep the damn things on the shelf.

 

How come Rutlands are so cheap for these when Riccambi list them at well over $800 USD.

369 GBP out of Eurospares, but if Rutlands has then at $126.00 then I'll put two in mine and it should be all sorted. Can anyone verify this price please.

 

Seems there are two numbers for the coils.

Mine is a 1988.5 UK car with no cats and KE Jetronic / No lambda sensors.

The numbers appear to be 124273, yet T Rutlands lists the following:

124273M for Testarossa 1985 - 1991 @ $154.65

but they also list:

124273 for 1985-1991 Testarossa to Assy. #82964 @ $651.98

Can anyone please shed some light on the difference between these two units, apart from the obvious $500 bucks!

 

It's okay, I was having a weak moment. Seems it's the module only.

Righto,

I've been having similar issues to Shamile. Car dies for a few seconds then it's okay again. Yesterday I ran for about five miles before it came good. I was sure it was fuel pump issues, but then it sorted itself out again. Makes it hard to diagnose.

Tonight after fitting the new oil cooler fans I took it to the video store to warm up and make the fans run. Came home and left it idling, and wham, dropped one bank while I was standing there. Great.

I took leads off drivers side (RHD) coil and no difference. Took leads off pass side coil and it would't run at all. So, problem solved, I have a coil issue.

So I look for a new coil. OMG - over $1000 Ozzie. Merry Bloody Christmas I'm thinking.

Then I start locating old threads (search is your friend) and stumble upon Shamilles issues and also the Rutlands thread.

Is there some way to test the coil and/or module to verify that the module has failed and that the coil is okay?

Was this module used on other cars, Alphas, Fiats etc, as I may be able to source a part locally down here in Melbourne if it was used on anything else?

 

Yes, if your TR is a F113B engine, you can use the fact that the fuel pumps will run only if the 7/12 bank ignition is working (which closes the tachometric relay - which closes the fuel pump relays - which run the fuel pumps) -- i.e.,

If the 1-6 bank ignition stops working, but the engine stays running on the 7-12 bank:
Swap only the modules -- if the engine now dies completely = bad module (that you just moved to the 7/12 side); if the symptom stays the same = bad coil on the 1-6 side (or some other 1-6 issue).

and similarly,

If the engine dies completely:
Swap only the modules -- if the 1-6 bank ignition stops working, but the engine now stays running on the 7-12 bank = bad module (that you just moved to the 1-6 bank); if the engine still dies completely = bad 7-12 coil (or some other 7-12 issue).

Two hints:

1. Label the components before you start swapping them around -- very easy to mix up who's who, and

2. get some fresh thermal heat sink compound to put on the underside of the modules -- yours will probably be pretty dried up/hardened/not fresh.

 

Is that the same white goo that goes under a CPU in a home PC?

Where do you normally get that stuff?

 

Yes -- I picked up a small tube at my local electronics store (Radio Shack). I think either of these, or somethiing similar, would work OK:

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2216880

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2295069

 

The higher prices quoted are for the module and coil assembly, complete with heat sinc. The module themseleves fit a number of cars. I think there is a Bosch number cross over but I haven't had the chance to look into it.

 

Dragging up an old thread.

At the time of the previous I replaced my 1-6 module with a second hand replacement part. Yesterday I fired up the old girl to go for a drive and she's running on 6, so I pulled the plug out of 1 - 6 side and no difference, so I figure the second hand part didn't last very long.

I plugged it all back in, wiggled a few wires around and started it again and it came up on 12. So off I go on the drive. Later in the day I'm a long way from home and fire it up outside a coffee shop, 1 - 6 is dead again.

I had taken a spare with me so I changed this on the side of the road and then fired it up again, still dead on 1 - 6 bank. Nothing I could do so I decide to limp home.

I basically idled the car in first gear for three hundred meters out of the car park, and just as I was turning onto the main road, whoosh, she fires the 1 - 6 bank and ran perfectly all the way home.

I thought changing the module would have been an immediate effect, not take a few minutes to start working.

Any ideas on this blokes or is it time to start looking for a replacement coil?

 

Robert if you are after a replacement module only here is an aftermarket one thats cheaper than the original Marelli
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=370196446829&viewitem=&_trkparms=tab%3DWatching