328 dash speaker removal

Can i get some help how do remove the dash speakers do the grill pops out? how are the held in .thank you

 

To remove the speaker, you need to remove the dash as there are two screws from the dash underside holding the speaker.

 

Sigmacars,

You DO NOT need to remove the dash! I replaced mine ('88 328GTB) with MB Quart speakers last year and was able to remove them from under the dash. You'll have to contort your body a bit but it's certainly doable (sp?). The passenger side was a bit tighter due to the fuseblock but both dash speakers were out within 30 minutes. I don't recall if they were attached using screws or nuts on bolts, but I'll check tonight (I still have the old dash speakers for reference). There were also 'tangs' on the dash speakers that helped affix them in the leather/vinyl dash. You will need to first unbend these slightly from below, then you can push the speakers up and out of the dash. I left the old wiring harness there and just ran new wires to the dash speakers from the crossovers which I placed under the seats.

Also, not all 6.5" or even 5.25" door speakers will work due to depth issues. I had to fabricate spacers out of mdf for mine to get them to work and not hit the bottom part of the window channel. I did try some older JL Audio VR600 (6") speakers from my other car and they seemed to fit without spacers. Wish I had known this before I bought the MB Quarts! I wrote down the exact door inset, hole dimensions, and depth info for future reference and will post these tomorrow. Hope this helps.

Vincent

 

Sigmacars,

Last night I checked the old dash speakers I removed from my 328. The speaker itself (see pics) is square and is removed from below. Again, you DO NOT have to remove the dash. Each dash speaker is held on by two threaded posts with (6mm or 8mm?) nuts. These posts are attached/welded to the underside of the dash. Only two of the holes in the speaker flange were used to secure them under the dash. I remember using both a small closed/open-ended wrench as well as a nut driver to remove these. The speakers come out easily after these nuts are removed. You can also use these same posts to attach new speakers. The new dash speakers I installed were circular and didn't have the square flange of the old speakers. They did have a threaded hole on the bottom which came in handy. I fabricated two thin metal bars and attached one to the underside of each dash speaker with small screws that came with the speakers. I then drilled two holes in each bar towards the ends that allowed me to just re-use the original threaded posts still under the dash. Trying to hold the speakers and getting the nuts onto these was a bit of a challenge but didn't take too long.

There is a grill cover for each speaker attached to the dash as well (see pics). To remove this you just have to bend the tangs slightly and push the cover up through the hole. The tangs are the only things hold them to the dash. Take your time and be careful not to tear the dash material when you do push them through. Depending on your new speakers you might not have to remove the old dash grill covers. The MB Quarts needed to protrude through the hole which mandated removal of the grill and using the new grill covers.

Also, my car had the following measurements for the door speakers. The diameter of the actual hole cutout is 5.0625" (129mm). There is a larger indent in the door that holds the frame of the speaker. The diameter of this indented section is 6.5" (165mm). The old, original door speakers are quite shallow in comparison to newer aftermarket speakers. If you want your speakers to fit inside this indent then make sure their maximum outer diameter is less than 6.5". Similarly, the largest part of the speaker that protrudes into the door through the cutout hole cannot be larger than 5.0625" in diameter or you'll have to either use extension rings or enlarge the door hole. I also measured a total of 2.375" (60mm) depth from the hole edge to the window regulator bar inside the door. If the speakers extend into the door more than 2.375" from this opening then you may have problems with the magnets hitting the regulator. A few of the speakers I researched were quite deep and had large diameter magnets that were too deep to fit without using an extension ring. If yours have a small diameter magnet they just might fit even if they extend more than this depth.

Good luck.

Vincent
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But can i get the grills out from the top or from the bottom also.

 

the pics realy helped it is very clear now if i had to remove the dash i would turn the radio of for good lol

 

Just curious Sigmacars, I assume you are replacing the speakers. If so, what brand, type etc... are you replacing them with?

 

Wow, Vincent... That is great reference material. Thank you!

Randy

 

Nice reference and pictures. I've been wanting to change the tweeters. Anyone know where the cross over is? I installed MB Quarts speakers in the doors a few years ago, direct fit, no spacers. Good speakers, they just need a lot of power to really get the sound out. All that said, not sure why since I never listen to the radio. The eight cylinders in the back are all the music I need usually.

Alberto

 

Well, judging by the cap on the back of that factory tweeter in the picture and by the fact that these cars didn't even come from the factory with a headunit in place, I'd say there are no other crossovers anywhere else.

 

Glad the pics helped. You're right Alberto, there are NO crossovers anywhere in the stock system. The small capacitors in the tweeters are the only things keeping the LF from turning them into toast. I'll try to take some pics this weekend of the simple metal brackets I fabricated for the tweeters just in case they may be of interest. They were very easy to make and still keep the same mounting points.

BTW, the two crossover units that came with the MB Quarts (I think they were model RCE216) were too big to put in the doors or under the dash so I just ran wires through the center tunnel and placed them out of sight under the seats. I used velcro to keep them from moving around the floorboard. If I had to do it over again the JL Audio VR600s seem like a much better fit since they are only 6" in diameter and don't need any extension rings. Not sure if they sound better or worse though but they're just about the only 6" OD speaker that you can find these days. I have the JLs in my MR2 and they certainly are loud/clean enough for my tastes with a basic head unit.

I agree with you though, the engine makes much better sounds than any stereo can hope to achieve!

Ciao,

Vincent

 

i have to take the old ones out and see what size theare and the i go shopping the old ones are broken the play but the rattle a lot.i let you know when i got them out.

 

By the way, how come no one is arguing against changing the speakers because it's not original!? Heresy I say!

 

and if someone wants to chang back so the can, but if the dont work and you can not fix them what is the point.

 

Anyone have Model numbers/ brands of speakers that fit & look oem?...I may do the same as listed here...

 

Check with ricambi and see if factory originals are availabe. No changes should ever be made to a Ferrari, if you change the speakers to aftermarket the car won't be worth fifty bucks. There feel better now?

 

How about original air in the wheels? The original oil in the engine? The unfarted leather on the seat?

 

I am not opposed to putting in aftermarket speakers..

So I'll ask again:
Anyone have Model numbers/ brands of speakers that fit & look oem?..(flush mount)


Mike

 

I've just started to install my stereo system and I got these:

http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Product/Item/Main.aspx?g=410&i=136VR600CS&tp=106

I've always liked JL products and these were a direct fit, no mods in the doors. The tweeters will need a little mod but I'm leaving the stock cover and sticking just the tweeter without a mount up into the hole and rig something between the mounting posts under the dash to hold it place. When done, nobody would know it was different from stock(except the sound of course).

One question I have is where are you all putting amps and what power source can be used if mounting in the back? Concerns I have with mounting in back is the heat, and running power, ground and speaker+other wires. Where is a good power and ground source for the amp?(using 8 quage wire). Where can the speaker wires be run to easily get through the firewall without cutting? If I went to the front, power obviously I'd get directly from the battery but would grounding to the main battery ground post be OK or somewhere else? Then from the front what's the best way into the cabin with the speaker wires and remote wire? The amp is too large for the interior. Thanks for the suggestions in advance.

 

Thanks Jeff,

I have my amp & 'stuff" under the dash..it is a tight fit!... I had some work done by Dave Helms..& he noted on my service record that there was alot of after market stereo wiring... It caused the tight fit & some wire chaffing... My feeing is that under the dash is best but "tight".. in the alternative I would opt for the front bonnet area, under the tire surround... Sorry don't know the Technical name but you know that fiberglass "tub"...under that...LOL

 

jonesdds


The link to Crutchfield shows 6 1/2" speakers. I thought they had to be 6" to fit.
Please clarify.
Do they fit into a 328 both, width and depth wise?

 

No problems with both and no mods done. Four holes in the speakers lined up perfectly with the door's holes.

Tweeters fit perfectly as well. Did have to remove the grill on the stock unit and enlarge the black plastic outer ring to slide over the new tweeter, then placed back into the stock unmodified dash space. Most difficult part was removing the tweeters, everything else was very easy.

Jeff