328 Air Condition Condensation Foam | FerrariChat

328 Air Condition Condensation Foam

Discussion in 'Technical Q&A' started by Futureman, Jul 29, 2008.

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  1. Futureman

    Futureman Formula 3

    May 16, 2007
    2,024
    #1 Futureman, Jul 29, 2008
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    OK, so I've seen that all the foam on the evaporator is gone (blown in my face). So there's no way to stop the condensation from being blown into the duct and then dripping on the center tunnel at my feet. If you look into the duct in the picture you can just see the edge of the evaporator. I've somehow got to get some more foam in there on the evaporator to catch the condensation and guide it to the drain tube. Any ideas? What kind of foam should I use and where can I get it? How hard would it be to remove the blower and pull the evaporator out? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
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  2. POLO35

    POLO35 Formula Junior

    Feb 21, 2005
    792
    Treasure Coast Florida
    Full Name:
    MATT
    Just go to Lowes or the like and buy a universal window airconditioner flilter and cut a piece and slip it through duct hole in front of the evaporator coil. This will keep the condensation from slinging off the coil. I used a tiny tape measure to measure the evaporator size...I think it was like 5x6 or close to.
     
  3. Futureman

    Futureman Formula 3

    May 16, 2007
    2,024
    Excellent idea. I was looking all around Lowes yesterday for some kind of foam to use, but didn't think to look near the A/C filters. Thanks.
     
  4. POLO35

    POLO35 Formula Junior

    Feb 21, 2005
    792
    Treasure Coast Florida
    Full Name:
    MATT
    Actually, it's located next to the window unit air conditioners.
     
  5. Futureman

    Futureman Formula 3

    May 16, 2007
    2,024
    Yep, found it yesterday. Looks almost identical to the foam that was originally in there. Since it's not very rigid, I'm wondering how I'm going to get it to stay pressed against the evaporator. Should I put adhesive on it? It will be difficult getting it in place with adhesive on it. I'll be working on it tonight so I can then install my new stereo and hopefully get the interior back in before tomorrow night.
     
  6. f355spider

    f355spider F1 World Champ
    Owner Rossa Subscribed

    May 29, 2001
    18,055
    USA
    Here is an easier way: Simply use some coarse Scotchbrite pad. I used some brown looking stuff from the hardware store. It took a little trial and error to get the fit right (trimming with shears). I installed it from the top, through the vents in the top of the dash. Be super careful as you slip it through the openings (the vents simply pull out to remove) as you do NOT want to scratch the vinyl dash with what is essentially sandpaper! But Scotchbrite worked well, and had enough thickness and rigidity to stay in place. It actually fit in the trough in front, at the bottom of the housing quite well in fact.

    No more water splashing on my legs! ;)
     
  7. Charro blue

    Charro blue Rookie

    Jun 7, 2008
    5
    [​IMG]


    Is this the foam in question?

    I have a similar issue with a leak
     
  8. bill brooks

    bill brooks F1 Veteran
    Silver Subscribed

    Jul 30, 2007
    6,086
    waynesburg,pa
    Full Name:
    bill brooks
    you could do the job a little more correctly by using closed-cell foam with a self-adhesive
    backing.
    fortunately frostex already has a product for this application. it is 1/4"thick, has a foil face,
    and a nice adhesive back. it is very conforming due to the foil and will lay in place. it is meant
    specifically for insulating metal duct work. the foil also prevents air stream erosion from occuring
    which undoubtedly lead to the oem insulation break-down in the first place.
    the rolls are 18" wide and about 10' long so you can use it elsewhere.
    about $10/roll at the depot, ace, true value,etc.
     
  9. f355spider

    f355spider F1 World Champ
    Owner Rossa Subscribed

    May 29, 2001
    18,055
    USA

    Bill, he is not trying to seal anything. The foam is open cell, and with a very open weave or mesh. It's purpose is to catch the condensation off the condensor (it is positioned against the outside portion of the condensor), and allows the water to drop down into a tray, and be evacuated out a drain hose. The factory foam is very thin and fragile...it rots away and blows out the vents. Then, with no foam to "catch" the water drips, the water blows out the vents and drips through seams and holes in the vent tubes.
     
  10. bill brooks

    bill brooks F1 Veteran
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    Jul 30, 2007
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    waynesburg,pa
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    bill brooks
    pardonez-moi.
     
  11. 328gts

    328gts Karting

    Jan 2, 2004
    84
    New Jersey
    Hi Hugh can you expand on how you put the scotchbrite pad in I have the same water issue on my 1989.I just tried to pull out one of the vents but it wouldnt budge and I was afraid to break it any advice?is there a way to release it as my dash was pulling up.Do you just take 1 out and have access or does anything else need to be taken apart?Thanks for the help Scott
     
  12. pippo

    pippo Formula 3

    Sep 25, 2005
    1,913
    FL
    Full Name:
    pippopotemus
    Good luck, future, as I have an alfa whose evap has no foam (I forgot to add it when I redid the whole ac system, stupidly), and the condensate migrated down the duct, as far as the driv area, and drips directly on top of the dang fuse box!!! Of course, I figured this out when fuses kept b;lowing.....LOL

    Too late now to fix, unl;ess I tear the dash off the cab.......I just placed a rag on top of the fuse box........
     
  13. f355spider

    f355spider F1 World Champ
    Owner Rossa Subscribed

    May 29, 2001
    18,055
    USA
    Well, there are two ways in, you can use the picture on post #1 and try and trim and insert the Scotchbrite pad in that way (requires very small hands). Or try from above. The vents should lift out, they did on my 1987 car...they should be exactly the same on yours. But be careful obviously. I popped the vents open, then inserted my fingers and sort of grabbed the vent along the outside edge, but from down inside....do not grab the moveable portion of the vent, that is fragile! I forget which vent gave the best access, I simple removed all three.
     
  14. Futureman

    Futureman Formula 3

    May 16, 2007
    2,024
    At first I tried the Scotchbrite pad idea. Then in response to this thread, I decided to get the open cell foam from Lowes for window a/c filters. It looks exactly like the foam that was originally in the evaporator. I installed it from under the dash. Of course I had the seats out and the center instrument/radio cluster out as well. So it was pretty simple to install that way. I've been on a short drive so far and it seems to have worked. Maybe it's just me but my a/c seems much colder as well. It was about 95 degrees today and more humid than I even remember it being in Houston (sort of hometown)...I'm talking brutal humid. I'm headed over to a friend's tomorrow to figure out why my radio install isn't working and why my door locks are now inoperative. We'll go on a drive through the foot hills and I'll post how the insulation is working. Thanks for all the input.
     
  15. POLO35

    POLO35 Formula Junior

    Feb 21, 2005
    792
    Treasure Coast Florida
    Full Name:
    MATT
    The scotchbrite is too thick and restrictive......air flow is already very poor. The foam is the ticket as its only purpose is to "catch" water droplets that get flung off the evaporator. They then hit the foam and trickle down and out the drain.
     
  16. f355spider

    f355spider F1 World Champ
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    May 29, 2001
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    #16 f355spider, Aug 5, 2008
    Last edited: Aug 5, 2008
    Use the maroon Scotchbrite, very coarse weave, it is not restrictive at all. It is found at hardware stores next to the sandpaper. NOT the pads used for washing pots and pans.

    http://solutions9.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/Windows/Doors/Product-Information/Products/Abrasives/Hand-Pad/
     
  17. ZOOOOMZ

    ZOOOOMZ Karting

    Aug 14, 2013
    248
    Austin, Texas, USA
    Full Name:
    Tim Cronin

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