leak down test procedure please

I was going to do a leak down and compression test over the weekend but all I could do was the compression test. The results came out better than when I had it done a few months back by a shop. All cylinders were between 182-205psi on a warm engine and later cylinders were cooler given the time that went by. I'm not sure how much cooling affects the results but the last 4 cylinders were all around 190.

I had trouble trying to perform the leakdown test, however. I was unable to figure out a good way to turn the crank to get each cylinder to TDC. Bumping the starter proved difficult and it took a lot of retries. I wouldn't want to do this for several cylinders and wear out the starter solenoid. I also tried turing the flywheel by accessing it through the bottom opening and wedging a screw driver in there to turn it but that didn't seem like a smart idea so I stopped.

What would be the procedure to turn the crank for this? I would do it during the upcoming engine out but then I can't warm it up and I think keeping it warm is more critical during this test.

 

How is it done at the F-dealer?

Is the motor turned by the crank pulley thereby necessitating the removal of the under panels?

 

Standard procedure it will be.

One thing of note: I did try to put it in gear and move the car but I wasn't thinking and I put it in 1st. DUH

I'll try it again and if the procedure isn't feasible I'll go ahead and take apart the shielding underneath - it's about to come off anyway.

 

Good point. That brings up another question.

I'm assuming because this is a 180 degree crank two pistons will be at TDC and two will be at BDC on one side then 90 degrees later the same thing will happen on the other side (please correct me if I'm wrong). Of those TDC pistons one will be on the end of the exhaust stroke transitioning to the the intake stroke the other will be at the end of the compression stroke and transitioning to the ignition stroke (I think that's what it's called). Can I do the leak down on both cylinders or will I run into the situation where both valves are slightly open transitioning from exhaust to intake? I'm almost certain this will foil my plan.

Another idea; if the above won't work, what about determining which ones are in the compression stroke and doing it that way, then turning 90 degrees, doing the next two, repeat, repeat? I'm under the assumption that the piston doesn't have to be at TDC - just that the valves have to be closed. I could have someone hold the crank bolt (at the pulley) in place if the crank has a tendancy to turn under the air pressure.

The theory of all this being I'd only have to move the crank one rotation 90 degrees at a time.

Also, I found the firing order. But I didn't find a chart with the cylinders numbered. I only have the labeled ignition pack on each side to go on. Based on this I believe 1-4 were on the USA passenger side, 1 being at the rear of the car, and 5-8 were on the driver side, 5 being at the rear. Was I correct?

 

OK. Got the leak down done. Admitedly, I'm a DIY'er so keep that in mind. Also, I did this with the engine cold.

I pulled down the sheilding underneath and checked out how much room I had to get to the crank bolt -laughably small so I resorted to another tactic. Going on the advise of putting it in 6th gear and untilitizing the fact that the rear was in the air, I decided to put it in 6th and have a friend hold one wheel while I turned the other. A third friend would tell us when the cylinder was at TDC. We zero'd the gauge at the begining of each cyinder test.

I believe my results came out pretty well. I don't have my notes with me on wheich cylinder did what but I remember the numbers:
two at 3%
one at 10% (I'll discount this since there could have been some debri on a valve or maybe it wasn't quite at TDC)
one at 7%
four at 5%

Now I can get on with the 30k. Has anyone here ever done it with the engine in the car? As you all know it's "supposedly" possible.