Rebuilding 365 GT2+2 Water Pump

Hi - I'm not directly familiar with the 365 2+2, but I think you may be talking about 6mm diameter studs, threaded into aluminum. If that's the case, the tightening torque is typically 2.5ft-lbs. Since I have an inch-pound torque wrench for smaller bolts and studs, I would use it at 30 inch-lbs. If your studs are actually 8mm instead, you'd use about 18ft-lbs, but I think yours are 6mm.

Especially in a water system, I'd feel comfortable using hi-temp (permatex black) silicone RTV on your gaskets. Just use the thinnest of coatings on your gasket. An alternative with a gasket, or when not using any gasket is to use HondaBond, since a lot of people seem to swear by that. I haven't used it, though. By the way, I would normally tighten all studs "in sequence"... kind of like tightening a head or valve cover, if there are not specific torque sequences in your workshop manual. Tighten from the inside or center studs towards the outside, to allow the parts to expand if necessary as you tighten, and not get "kinked" which could cause a bit of gasket surface warping between studs.


PS - have you ever attended the monthly Scottsdale Cars & Coffee? Here's a thread with details for this coming Saturday.
http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=210114

 

FandLcars got it right but for me, water pumps are a place that I frequently use Hylomar on the gasket. It seals a water system well and is no problem to disassemble later. Water pumps will ultimately fail (hopefully not right away) and will need to be removed again.

 

Thanks for the tip on the Hylomar, Tim. I've heard of it before, but wasn't aware it was a lot easier to disassemble. Sounds good to me!

 

Hi Scott! I remember seeing a 365 there, so it must have been you On torques, the torques are given for fastening a nut on a stud which is mounted (threaded) into an aluminum block or other part that the stud is mounted in. This torque on the nut would also be transfered through the stud to tighten it into the aluminum block, or part.

Maybe I'm missing what you are talking about, but if you just have a bolt that passes through a hole with a nut to fasten or clamp something, I'd probably use the same torque on your car, but you could go a bit higher. The limit on fastening torque will be the risk of stripping out the aluminum threads in the block.

Years ago I did that on a couple valve cover studs I was tightening on a 275GTB that I owned. I was using torques I got from the 275 manual (English translation of Italian), which apparently had the wrong value. I think I was using 10ft-lbs on a 6mm stud. Unfortunately, even the 348 manual is not perfect... don't ask an Italian manual translator to convert degC to degF.

Hope to see your car when done! You'll probably be done before I have my 348 together again

 

Hey Scott- it was good to see you on the 6th for the Cars & Coffee. Great Event, plus we scored Hats at the Jeweler sponsoring the breakfast! I appreciate you letting me know about the Loctite 510 gasket maker or gasket sealer, and decided to order some. I also found it was difficult to find, but the local RS Hughes division here was able to order it and get it here the next day. Not sure who you used. www.rshughes.com

I made the mistake of first ordering some from website I found on froogle.com, and they won't have it to me until the end of this month! But I'll have some from RS Hughes tomorrow. I plan to use it on any gaskets. They sure are proud of it, though! $$$