Miura, the original supercar

3850

 

Iota SVR 3781
http://www.hobidas.com/tv/archives/2005/08/lamborghini_jota_svr.html

 

Nice video, thanks for posting.

 

http://www.flickr.com/photos/48696860@N00/2850147111/

 

Restored SV voted car of the year at Auto Italia Sunday 14th September
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Ex Rod Stewart,factory restored,one of the finest Miura in the world?
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How come the last 2 SVs ^ don't have the gold trim? I thought they all did?

 

Just remembered the 'high heel in the roof'-story on the ex-Rod Steward car :hehe:

 

Trivia:

The model in the picture's name is Farah.

Anyone get the connection?
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Work progresses.
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Both are my thoughts exactly.

Hi-Res images would be fine!

 

Just finished doing mine. The problem was very obvious. Appearantly it could not handle 7000 RPM. It worked fine until I started having fun. With the new clutch it shifts cleaner than it did before. Now it shifts about as well as a modern car but with the rifle bolt feel you get on the older cars that do not have all the rubber dampners in the linkage.

Cheers Jim
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Your picture tells a tale.

Miura has a unique clutch design.

The first time I took one apart I was glad I marked all the parts before disassembly. I wondered why all the small parts in the pressure plate were numbered separately.

 

Jim:

Were dropping the clutch or something? This isn't just from normal acceleration is it? Looks like you got your money's worth out of it. What did you do, reline the one you had or buy a new one? Any special material (kevlar) on the new one?

Alberto

 

Once you figure out how the darned thing comes apart (you need a big gear puller), a Miura clutch is a pretty easy repair. Once you have it to where Jim has it pictured, the disc slips right off. Just be sure to keep track of how it came apart or you'll have trouble later setting the timing.

The last time I did one of these, new parts weren't available. I was able to get a "good used" disc. There are shops that can reline it (I've done this with a Countach) and this is probably what I'd do here if I couldn't get new.

 

LOL, no I did not drop the clutch. Just a normal upshift from 2nd to 3rd under brisk but not heavy acceration. It was the first time I took it to 7000 RPM though. My heart sank at the time. Tearing into it I found the clutch had been rebuilt fairly recently. Unfortunately they did not do it correctly. At the very least it should have had a reenforced organic material for the friction disc instead of a plain disc. I chose to reline the disc I had since it was in good shape, I went with kevlar because I could not find a reenforced organic material in the size I needed. The kevlar disc is metal backed so their is no way it will have the same issue as the old one. So far I am really happy with the Kevlar, however I have only put about 50 miles on it so it is to to early to say how it will hold up long term.

Cheers Jim

 

Yes, it is one of the easiest cars to do a clutch on, no need to remove the engine or the tranny. The hard part is figuring out how it works so you can do the job correctly without damaging anything. Fortunately it is very similar to a classic Mini so I was already familiar with the concept. As Tim said, the hard part is getting the pressure plate off the crank adapter. It is a tapered fit so it can be tough to get off. Fortunately I already had this tool from my Mini experiences; it made the job a breeze. Note I left a nut loosely on the end the crank adapter to catch the tool and stop it from hitting the rocker when it broke free, it does come off with a bang. In regards to marking everything, Tim is right it is easy to get the flywheel off and mess up the timing marks. It will also mess up the balance. On the bright side the factory parts were all marked with "0" on the flywheel, pressure plate and diaphragm to aid reassembly.

Cheers Jim
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That's a pretty cool puller, I've got the jack, I'm gonna make one.

 

It works well, four pumps and the Miura flywheel was off. I used slight smaller allthread in the four corners on the first one I made, it did a great job of stretching the allthread but didn't do a thing to pull the flywheel off (a Mini, the flywheel was really stuck on). Also the jack handle/pump needs to be at the bottom when you use it, otherwise the jack oil drains out of the pump and it no longer works.

Cheers Jim

 

I'd be interested in your comments on the clutch engagement once you have a few more miles. Did you take pictures of the redone clutch? Who did it for you and if you don't mind what did they charge?

Be sure to put it back together correctly (including detent that keeps gears from sliding into the case). I recently (about a year ago) lunched the tapered shaft because the previous owner/rebuilder failed to do it 100% correctly (can explain but too long to write it), the woodruff key broke because things were wobbling, causing scoring on the tapered shaft and other stuff. Was told tapered shaft was not available new. Found it at the factory (how many do you want, we have 8 !!; WTF?). Back in business after some ($) pain.

Alberto

 

There's no substitute for patience and attention to detail when working on a nearly priceless work of art.

It's interesting the things that you can find if you find the right person to ask.