328 - starter intermittently not turning

It could be a sticking starter motor solenoid. Relay may be ok, since you can hear it clicking.

Or, it could need a starter motor relay there. I fitted one to my car and I got another .70 volts at the starter.

But.....my starter always cranked, but was a little sluggish.

Your starter is not cranking at all, which means it could be a sticking starter motor solenoid mate. If you can, get someone to crank the car, while you give the starter motor a few gentle taps with the wooden handle of a hammer. That may "free up" the sticking solenoid and you will then know if that is the trouble.

Also, place a multimeter on the starter motor to see what voltage you have there. You MAY be getting a huge voltage drop from the ignition to the starter??

I personally think its the starter motor, but you will also benefit fitting a starter relay there too mate. So sort the problem out, then look at wiring in a starter relay there.

Sometimes I wish I was in your local areas so that I could swing past and help my FerrariChat friends diagnose and repair their Ferraris.

Here is a link to when I added the starter relay to my 348.

http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=160866&highlight=348+hot+start

 

Ok, perhaps you may just need the extra starter relay there mate??

Get a mulitmeter on the starter motor and see what voltage you have there with the key in the "on position" and while trying to crank the engine also.

Can you do that and report back with the results?

 

You should have at least 12 volts there with the key on. That shouldnt really be an issue as most cars will have that.

The real trouble occurs when the car is under load (cranking), the voltage drops while cranking.........which is why you need to know the voltage when cranking more importantly than when the key is on.

Ill keep my eyes peeled here mate.

 

A starter solenoid is a magnetic force that pulls a washer down over two electical contacts, I have seen these contacts become bad from weak power to the starter. This will cause all sorts of starting demons. If you find an old type starter & alternator shop that does Bosch work they can fix it at normal car prices. (no need for KY) I had my starter and alternator rebuilt locally for about $320. Contact me if you need a source.

Larry Fletcher

 

Try this : http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=209843

Its working fine for all models 308/328/mondial.

Guido

 

Have a load test performed on the battery to confirm it's condition, clean the terminals too. Then clean and check for tightness, all the starter wiring.

I would even replace the solenoid before doing a work around with the extra relay and wiring.

 

It helped for me and whas only about 35 $. Wiring is very simple. Since I hat NO problem at all to start....

The solenoid gets maximum power directly from the battery.

Guido

 

The starter solenoid is an electromechanical device which uses a magnetic field to push a plunger rod to both close an electrical contact and (I think) to push the starter motor gear into alignment with the flywheel. (Using the solenoid instead of a Bendix gear is pretty common on '70s-'80s Italian cars.)

The starter solenoid is also mounted near the bottom of the engine. Which is a dirty environment.
A 328's starter solenoid has also been sitting there for around 20 years.

Adding a relay to put higher voltage to the solenoid coil gives it a bit more magnetic push, to overcome some of the resistance to movement caused by accumulated dirt.

Or you could just clean it. (Which, admittedly, requires disassembly, so it's not as easy as adding a relay "band-aid".)

But after a few more years, even the higher voltage might not overcome the grunge buildup.

How long will you be keeping this car?


I had the same issue on a '75 Alfetta, many years ago. Cleaning the solenoid cleared it up.

My '88 328 once in a while wouldn't turn at all. The 10v the Optima was putting out wasn't enough. It works fine (so far) on the new Interstate.
But I'll probably ask about getting the solenoid/starter cleaned at the next major.

 

That is IF........the solenoid can be pulled apart.

Most solenoids are throw away items. Some, can be rebuilt/cleaned out. I have not seen too many car starter motor solenoids that can be pulled apart. They are normally a sealed unit from the factory.

But if you can get it apart, then sweet. Take it apart and you will soon see if the contacts/plunger in there are burnt out or not. If you do get it apart, seeing as you have gotten that far, I would replace the contacts and plunger in there brother.

I would also add a relay there for good measure.

 

The solenoid can be partially taken apart. You can easily get the plunger out to clean it and the sleeve the plunger goes into. However you can't get to the electrical contacts :-(

 

Ah, thanks mate.

If he gets the solenoid apart, he can see the condition of the plunger and the contacts and they will soon tell him if they are burnt out.

Shame you cant get to the contacts to replace them.

 

Unfortunately you can't see the contacts. The plunger pushes a small spring-loaded rod which closes the contacts but you can't see them :-(

Photos shows rod that disappears into sealed solenoid coil body.

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That does make it sound like you're not quite getting enough voltage to the solenoid or that there is some "build-up"/pitting on the solenoid contacts that requires a bit more juice to make the starter motor happy (or a combination of both).

I think many people are unaware that there is a second quick disconnect on the main battery cable (this one on the + cable) near where the shift rod enters the firewall. The well known one is the ground disconnect plug near the battery. The + quick dissconnect is hidden in a little plastic tray/channel that comes off with the removal of two 10mm bolts. Normally you would only disconnect this one for engine removal.

Anyway, this connector should also be taken apart to check for corrosion or weak mechanical tension that could lead to some voltage drop. I doubt if many get corroded with the oil vapor bath things are subject to in our "oil-tight" engine compartments ;-) Worth checking though......

Second photo shows plastic channel/cable tray removed.

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