Dumb questions about Mondial fuses

Where can I find the rating for the Mondial fuses.

I have looked in the owners manual and the electrical diagrams books.

The only thing I did see was a8 and a16 on the fuse cover, are these any indication?.

Its just when seeing some pics of Mondial fuseboxes on here the fuses are a completely different rating to the ones that are in mine. I've never had a problem but as I am in the middle of contemplating making my own fusebox this is a good place to start.

Any help would be appreciated.

 

Sometimes there are variation depending on year/model/version.

If you mean a standard (euro) Mondial QV, the fuse values are shown in the 241/82 OM pages 101-102. I don't have the corresponding wiring diagram book for that year/model/version, but the fuses (and relays) are usually shown in the first few pages (like pages 3-5).

 

Careful you have the right cover/owners manual with the right fuse box. Ran into that a few weeks back.

read http://ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=213035

 

Thanks for the reply Steve.

It is the 241/82 OM that I have but the only numbers that are there for the fuses are A16, A8 or A5. Does this mean 16Amp, 8Amp & 5 Amp?. As the ones in my fusebox are mainly 15 & 20 amp.

Example from 241/82 OM

A16 RH Main Beam

A8 LH Dipped Beam

A5 Front Lights-Rear Lights

 

Thanks for the reply Dave.

To be honest that was the thread (3rd pic down) that got me thinking about previous owners fitting incorrect fuses.

 

Yes, A"X" = "X" Amps. Now, whether or not there are errors in the OM is a different issue

 

Thanks Steve. Thats answered what I needed to know, although there are a couple of fuses in the OM with no numbers next to them.

I have never seen an 8 or a 16 amp fuse. Would I use the next size up or down i.e. 7.5 or 10 instead of 8 and 15 or 20 instead of 16?.

I have intentions of having a more basic fusebox inside the car in the passenger footwell as some relays and fuses are now redundant from the removal of the aircon/electric windows/mirrors etc.... To make things convenient I was looking at these:

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=120313040124&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT&ih=002

 

Generally, you would only go "up" in current rating -- i.e., replace 16A with 20A and replace 8A with 10A, but there are two exceptions (that can be deduced from later model OMs):

1. For the (same) fuel pump, they went from 16A to a 15A rather than 20A, and

2. For the (same) cold start injector, they went from 8A to a 7.5A rather than 10A,

so you should probably do the same for those two positions.

With regard to not having some values shown for some fuses, I could only see that they left out the value for fuse #18 in the English column -- but it's the same value as shown in the other languages = A16.

With regard to substituting resettable circuit breakers for the non-resettable fuses, it depends on the "speed" of the circuit breaker. When you switch "on" an electric motor, the initial current inrush can be much higher than the steady-state current because the motor is at zero RPM (so it's not generating any back EMF). This high inrush current only lasts for a very short time, so even though it's technically higher than the rating on the non-resettable fuse, the fuse doesn't blow (since the fuse has some non-zero mass and takes a little time to heat up and blow). However, since this supplier is suggesting these resettable circuit breakers are good replacements for non-settable fuses, they may have already taken this into account. Bottom-line is if you try the circuit breakers, but they seem to keep tripping a lot when you turn the corresponding gizmo "on", you might have to go back to a (slower) non-settable fuse, but otherwise, I don't see why they wouldn't be OK.

 

What a great summary. I really appreciate all the time and effort you put into helping others on here.

As you stated earlier I presume things are different in the various manuals, in the 3rd pic on the China syndrome thread some of fuses are quite a bit varied to mine, i.e. one is 15 when mine is 7.5, another is 30 when mine is 20 and for the fuel pump its 25 when mine is 15.

As to the circuit breakers they are proper motorsport ones which would be fine.
http://www.gprdirect.com/OnlineShop/Product.do?c=225&g=1383

 

Excessive current events come in two flavors...catastrophic and intermittent. Intermittent type can be current spike of a motor or frayed wire touching chassis. Catastrophic is where a part goes bad and stays in a high current condition. For temporary type, a circuit breaker auto reset makes sense otherwise non-resetting circuit breakers are best. At one time, many US cars had self resetting type breakers in headlight circuits which makes sense as generally lights fail open and self resetting keeps you driving (I've had this happen).

Steve already gone here, but I feel the need to emphasize it. Changing the protection system can be tricky because you don't know the characteristics of the devices involved. If you change to circuit breakers you are gambling instead of engineering. And I'm not sure that Ferrari actually engineered them to start with.

Buying at a auto parts store can be a crap-shoot. That said, I changed two of my fuses to auto-reset breakers successfully (radiator fan). !! But be prepared to experiment !!

Think I read somewhere above a difference in headlights between 8A & 16A...they should both be 16A (15) for original lights. And know that incandescent lights also draw high inrush current when they are turned on.

 

Thanks for your input Paul.

I had just presumed that a 15a circuit breaker would be fine and as a direct replacement for a 15a fuse. I am 99% that they will be fine and they are sold through various well known Motorsport (similar to Summit) specialists here in the Uk.

Here are a couple of links to the website about their specs:

http://www.e-t-a.com.au/uploads/prodb/D_1170_e_060808.pdf

http://www.e-t-a.com.au/au_thermal_cb+M570d4e0d499.html?&type=98

 

Yes, the current-time graph in the .pdf file shows that they are designed to prevent nuisance tripping from high inrush currents.

 

The 8a is for the dipped beam and the 16a was for the main beam, so I presume that is correct as there would be less current draw. I will be replacing those with 10a as Steve suggested going up.

 

Thanks for reading that. I did go through it afterwards and see that part.