Dino DIY - Changing Engine Oil

I changed my oil the other day, so thought I would share it with you.

You'll need:
- a warm Dino
- 12mm Allen wrench or Allen ratchet drive
- collection drain pan
- oil sample kit
- crush washer
- 8 L of oil
- oil filter


Safely jack the Dino up until there is enough vertical clearance to access the forward drain plug and then double support the Dino. The rearmost drain plug is for the transaxle, no need to touch that.

Position the collection pan under the drain plug and remove the drain plug using the 12mm Allen drive.
Collect an oil sample in mid stream and try not to make a mess.
Lower the Dino to allow the oil pan to be level and facilitate draining the remaining oil.
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Clean the drain plug and install a new crush washer.
Note: photo of plug is the wrong plug, but you get the general idea...

Package the oil sample and send it out for analysis

When the oil is finished draining out, then securely re-install the drain plug
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Remove the right rear wheel and splash panel to access the oil filter.
Spin the oil filter counterclockwise to remove and clean the oil filter seating area.
Install a new filter and mark the date and mileage on the filter top with a sharpie
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I use Castrol 20-50W, pour all 8 liters in.
Since the oil reformulation of 2005, I also add a ZDDP supplement EOS to my oil.
Securely tighten the oil filler cap and warm the Dino up. Visually check under the car for leaks during a full heat cycle.
When cool check oil level and fill if necessary/
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Scott,

Changing oil is very basic, of course, but it was good of you to take the time to take pictures and post. It helps make the site a complete guide to our cars.

Andy
Manila

PS: Since I have other sports cars I maintain myself, I always have to make sure I'm removing the right drain plug in the Dino.

 

Will you post the results of your analysis when it comes back?

Mine showed higher than expected copper so I'm woondering if that endemic to the engine (because of the valve guides) or if I have a problem.


Oh, and where do you get the "EOS Assembly lube"

 

Thats really a great idea. I can't believe I've never thought of it.

 

Scott, I found your old analysis from a couple of years ago; i see your copeer was a bit high at that time. Do you have other more recent ones to compare?

http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/showpost.php?p=136095498&postcount=7

 

After much study I decided you're better off with one of the 15W-40 oils that are also approved for diesel use. 20W-50 is really too thick to pump well at startup, even if you live in Southern California, and the 15W-40 is very similar to the Shell oil of the era recommended in the owners manual. I use the Rotella T synthetic 5W-40 which can be obtained quite reasonably at Wal Mart. The diesel-approved oils have much more ZDDP than those approved only for gas engine use, so you don't need to add any.

 

I phoned and received similar results; copper is high.

Different Dino.

 

I don't think that is the case any more (after January 2008). All diesel oil has now been reformulated to meet new US emissions restrictions. You might want to consider Brad-Penn racing oil ( http://www.bradpennracing.com/default.asp ). There is a ton of information about motor oils and ZDDP on the internet. The bottom line is that the newer oils are creating problems (mostly cam lobe wear) for older cars that are driven. An oil formulated with higher levels of ZDDP, usually racing oils, or additives, should probably be used.

Here is an older Ferrari chat thread about engine oils that contains some very good links http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=155536

 

When I looked on Bob is the Oil Guy earlier this year I read that even the reformulated diesel- gas oils still have over 1000 ppm ZDDP and should be fine for flat-tappet engines.

It is true that modern oils approved for gas engines only should not be used in older motors.

 

Forgot to post the results.
The oil analysis for Dino 05082 came back looking good, I highly recommend doing this periodically as a way to keep informed on the health of the engine.

PS - I also see that copper is high but am not worried about it as it is probably bushings.
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Scott, It looks like you've got everything but triglycerides! Good work! Fred

 

You might want to add ".....be sure to anneal the copper washer before installation...."

 

I just googled "anneal". So can you describe the proper procedure to anneal the copper washer? I was going to do my first oil change on my Dino soon. I've done it on my other cars and have never had to do anything but R & R. I'd like to know more about the proper care for the Dino. And any special treatment such as this.

Also, what size copper washer is required? I'd like to get everything before starting the job. I hate having to run out mid-job to get something.

Thanks for any info,

Manny

 

New copper washers are already soft so you don't have to anneal them. If you re-use copper washers, heating them cherry red with a propane torch and then quickly quenching them in water will make them soft again (this process is "annealing"). Often done with triumph motorcycle head gaskets so they can be used again.

 

Racerboy - actually, as I review my old metallurgy books, I recall that quenching will actually harden the copper. The annealing process is to heat it until glows, which allows for reorganization of the crystalline structure. As it slowly cools, it reforms bonds and settles in an organized lattice. This leads to a "softer" metal, which is what I suspect a copper washer should be. Slow cooling is part of the annealing process.

By quenching, one hardens the material. Without further study or testing, I cannot comment on whether such hardening will lead to fracture of the washer as it is compressed and torqued.

I should think that we would want a soft washer for sealing purposes. But I am anxious to be educated.

Jim S.

 

Jim,

That was my take on it as well. To slowly cool the metal. I've seen enough sword making movies to assume that dipping in water hardens the metal.

PS. What size washer do I need?

 

Sorry - I don't have one on my desk. I suspect around 17mm-19mm, but only a guess.

Jim S.

 

You are correct that you don't need to quench the red hot copper gasket. This from the Australian Steam Engine website:

In annealing of copper, the heating is the important part. The rate of cooling is immaterial.Whether you allow it to cool naturally or drop it into water makes no difference to the final softness.
.Traditionally, we drop it into water because that's what we were told, but
it is not necessary. It's only a matter of convenience.

The copper gasket is cooled this way so you can handle it immediately!

 

Not recommended to add EOS at every oil change. EOS is for breaking in new engines only. It also has very little zinc/phosphorus.
You do want to add 4 oz. GM cam and lifter prelube p/n 12345501 at every oil change to replace the lost lubricants in new oil (zinc and phosphorus). Cam and lifter prelube great for flat tappet engines.

in the middle of my oil change right now so I thought I'd post an important detail.

New GM EOS and alternatives? - Bob Is The Oil Guy

or you can go with ZDDPlus at every oil change.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CRO-86092/

 

Correct for the modern formulation, but not the old version which is why I stockpiled.
Proven to have a great amount of Zn/Ph as witnessed by my oil analysis results!

 

To add to Scott’s useful thread, which I read once again before servicing the Dino this morning (thanks, Scott!), the new UFI filter is numbered 23 162 02. The last one I used was 23 162 01. The filter is fits a number of other Ferrari models.

I filled up with Redline 20W50. I live in the tropics.

Andres
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Thanks for this great old thread that I am dusting off! I found it very helpful! I am adding my experience here:

1) The engine drain plug was 10mm allen key (the transmission drain plug is 12mm)
2) The crush washer is 22mm ID.
3) If you are using an enclosed oil catcher container, don't forget to leave a port open (ie loosen cap) for the air to vent when the oil enters the container, or it will spill all over the place (I learned this on my 993 years ago). (and make sure it has enough capacity of course)
4) After draining, my Dino took ~7 liters, not 9L indicated above. I poured in the entire 5 quart (4.73L) jug, checked the level, and I could already see oil on the indicator, and so I added another liter or so to get to the middle of the fill zone. I started the car & let it idle for a few minutes, turned it off, and is seemed like it was at the middle. I then checked the level the next day and it was at the lower end of the fill zone (oil must have settled), so added more until it was about 3/4 to the top. All in all about 7L.
5) I used the same oil that the prior mechanic used a year prior, which was 20w-50 Valvoline VR1 synthetic racing, oil high zinc.) The filter I used was the Baldwin B253 (it apparently has a check valve).
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