changing plugs on testarossa first time.

NGK DR8EIX (don't pay more than $7.32 each)

 

I agree with using the NGK iridium. Do it from the top of the car. Very easy.

 

+2 available at any auto parts store

 

Agreed and if you can do it from the bottom of your car, you must have the engine upside down

 

Dear Ferraristi,

Change the plugs from above. Lay a large towel ( clean surface ) on the fender and work from there. Use a 18mm socket with an extender and torque wrench.

BTW

The champions are the OEM plug and available at only $2.00 each. Why does everyone recommend the NGK? What REAL difference do they make? I change my plugs once a year with the Champions. Why would the NGK's be better?


Shamile

Freeze....Miami Vice !

 

What is the torque spec for the plugs??

 

The NGK DR8EIX will easily last 30K miles. You can also buy the "standard" NGK DR8EA plugs for $1.88 each (which are very similar to the Champions you are using).

 

Shamile, The NGK the were recommended earlier in the thread were iridium plugs not standard plugs like the Champion you are probably using.

 

12 ft-lbs (12mm thread plugs) 4-valve cars
14 ft-lbs (14mm thread plugs) 2-valve cars


After first tightening the plug sufficiently to crush the crush washer...

 

Ok....but why the NGK irridium? In what way are they better? I've just always used the OEM but I've always trusted y'alls judgment.

Please let me know.

BTW,

on torquing new plugs....first to 15ftlbs, slacken, re tighten to 12ftlbs.


Shamile

Freeze....Miami Vice !

 

Well...Yes and no.

The original Champion A6G plugs have a 18mm hex. The NGK plugs do not. The NGK plugs use a smaller hex, but the size currently escapes me. This will become obvious once the old plugs are removed and compared to the newer DR8EIX plugs.

David

 

....and and why the prefered use of the NGK irridums??????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????


Can some one please tell me? C'mon Fast Radio, 91TR, you guys know your technical stuff.


BTW, Sparta49, you may need to change your avatar ( tail between legs )....LOL


Shamile

Freeze....Miami Vice !

 

I was just looking for something new.......

 

Iridium has a higher melting temperature so the center electrode can be made a smaller (0.6mm) diameter without melting/eroding too quickly -- see:

http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/products/spark_plugs/iridiumix.asp?mode=nml

and the discussion of "center electrode" here (especially the second paragraph):

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spark_plug

(the standard material center electrode is 2mm in diameter -- and nothing wrong with using the standard plug, but you might need to replace them more often as you are doing).

 

Better spark from the available voltage. http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/products/cars_trucks_suvs/iridiumintro.asp

My car ran better when I put the DR8EIX plugs in. Put'em in yours and you'll agree. IMHO it's the best $100 you can put into the car.

 

Better spark with same voltage equals better acceleration, better fuel economy, a little more horsepower. I understand you can adjust the timing to suit the iridium plugs for even more performance.

 

Would the same benefits apply to the lowly Boxer?

 

Once the fuel/ air is ignited, the flame front propagates on its own at the same rate - regardless of the quality or duration of the spark. Either it fires adequately - or not. Fouling resistance and wear resistance are the primary drivers behind the fancy plugs. Change 'em out often, and you'll see little, if any difference.

If the plugs are too hot then they can cause pre-ignition. Backing off on the advance can mitigate this hot plug induced pre-ignition. Getting the correct heat range plug will allow you to correct the timing to a more advanced (typically more power) position per the original design. Don't need fancy plugs for that - just the correct heat range.

Rgds,
Vince

 

If that were indeed the case in the real world then theoretically you'd never have to change a plug as long as it produces some spark, any spark and as long as the plug isn't fouled. Whatever, I noticed a difference immediately upon installation of iridium plugs and the plugs they replaced were Champs in fine shape that didn't need replacing. Also why do racing ignition coils produce a higher voltage if the higher voltage didn't promote a better spark and hence better combustion?

 

Voltage = the 'push' to generate the spark.
Greater voltage will push the spark across a high resistance gap due to fouling or more difficult chamber conditions (over rich, high compression, too wide a gap etc).
Once again, it comes down to; will it fire - or not?

Higher voltage will ensure that a plug fires under more difficult conditions and does nothing more. A higher voltage will help a spark jump a wide gap - which could theoretically assist the process. My words do not cover 'different' ignition systems which allow for example, subsequent downstream modifications (plug gap). My words apply on any 'given' ignition system. Will the given ignition system fire the plug - or not?

If not - change the plug.

Note that the newer ignition systems generate multiple 'rapid fire' sparks. This is not a plug feature but rather, an ignition system design. My words do not intend to cover these more advanced ignition systems - just the plugs themselves. Back to: do they fire - or not?

Rgds,
Vince