330 P4 Restoration attempt

I was recently cleaning out my garage (inspired by the garage thread) and came accross this model that was gifted to me by a friend years ago. It is in bad shape and I decided to see what I can make of this wreck. I am not really experienced in this type of thing, I have made a few custom models before and built plenty of kits but as far as restoration goes I'm a total novice.

So I decided to pull it all apart and check out the extent of the damage, the castings are in good shape, I have soaked them in a bath of paint thinners to remove the old damaged paint, its a slow process but means I can work with a good surface and hopefully get a nice smooth finish to the new paint.

Where I will run into problems is with the plastic parts that have been damaged, the windscreen and one door glass are in salvagable order but the rear screen is cracked and the other door is missing is window all together, also the headlight covers are not in good order. I am open to all ideas on what to do to make up some new ones.

This will be a long project as I will use it to fill in spare time so progress will probably be slowish.

All help is appreciated and advice is encouraged.
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Be careful when repainting, the paint will try to REALLY bubble up. Ran across this a few weeks ago as I am restoring a old Jag XJS diecast.

 

Are you using spray can's or an air brush? I normally prime with a spray can then final coats are with an air brush. Normally I find the paint in a spray car to be too thick for external body parts, its great for seats and interior/motor components then using a brush to add the details. Bubbling paint is normally a sign of too heavy coat....

I have repainted a few diecasts this way and so far so good, but thank you for the tip, I'll keep an eye out for it.

 

Sorry for the random off topic question, but what is Jim Bean Cola? Never heard of that.

 

I would just scrap that rear glass (if you plan on taking some time on it), but you should be able to clean up some of that other plastic. You may even get a replacement rear window over time.
Are you going to repaint the interior, exterior or wheels?

This would be cool.
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Don't scrap the rear glass, you may be able to make a mold out of it and cast a new clear plastic rear window for it. People do that all the time for taillights on old cars that are scratched and dull.

 

LOL!!! Its a RTD Bourbon and cola, Jim Beam is the brand of bourbon, yummy.

I really like that photo, funny cos I was thinking yesterday while I was stripping the paint off that I would like to paint it yellow but would prefer to keep it similar to a real one, now i can have both.

I have never done any molding for model cars so the rear window will be tricky, I will cross that bridge when I come to it, finding a replacement one would be the best bet but chances of that are slim I think.

 

I never tried the testors window maker, but maybe that can hide some of the split in the window?

One thing I have used in the past is Displex, its for cell phone and PDA screens. (found on ebay pretty easy)
It has a fine enough grit in it that "some" windows shine up so well that you have to get up close to see the hairlines scratches that where there before.
Test it first though because it could be to abrasive for the rear window,it just depends on the plastic.

My bet is after you finish the car, that rear window is going to bug the hell out of you...well it would me.

 

Agreed, that window will not be going back on the car in the shape its in, that would eat me up. Probably look into getting some very thin clear lexan and see if I can shape that to the correct curve. I need to do the head light covers also so there will be plenty of learning done.

Do you have any more photos of that yellow P4? I would be very interested in copying that one.

 

I cant find one, but I will take a better look on my home pc tomorrow. I might of saved a few on there.

 

You're a brave man! I would simply enjoy the 'Jim Beam' and order a new one from GMP!
But that's just me!
Good luck!

 

I'm using spray cans. About to buy an air brush.

 

http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=139128

 

Haha, I might just order a new one from GMP anyway Its all in the name of fun...........at least it supposed to be

Thank you

The air brush will be money well spent, its more of a hassle to use (mixing paints) and clean up after use but the results are far nicer IMO/E

I remember this thread!!!! Your work is amazing, I will be super happy if I can get 1/8 of the quality you have there. How did you source your models to start the build from? eBay?

 

I think you will find the yellow car isn't a P4, but a 412P or P3. I don't think there was ever a yellow P4? Aside from the different engine the bodywork does look similar between the 412P and P4, but side by side they are a different size and subtly different in shape as well.

Regarding the restoration I think the easiest option is to convert it into a Spyder, then you don't need the rear window. Cut a rectanglular slot in the plastic part of the rear deck and using some plastic card or thin sheet aluminium make some vains to slot in. Cut down the side windows, and repaint the components. Use primer and top coat aerosols from an auto store (and matt black and silver for interior and engine etc) and finish the model exactly as you would a real car with fine wet'n'dry paper, buffing compound, and wax. Plastic card or thin aluminium sheet are available from model shops, especially those doing model railway supplies.

P.S. The easy way to tell a P3/412P from a genuine P4 (some P3 were rebodied as P4) are the thin air inlets on the nose above the main radiator intake. The P3/412P has one central inlet, while the P4 has two, each either side of centre.

 

I had a lot of these cars but none of them in good shape. For parts like wheels, bodywork e.d. I sometimes bought a car on dutch eBay-like websites

 

Yeah its a a 412P or P3, and I lied I don't have any other pics of it.
So now I'm on a mission.....

 

Amongst a jumble of other photo's there are a number showing the yellow 412P in the pages here

http://www.picsearch.com/search.cgi?q=Ferrari%20412P&start=1&cols=6&thumbs=18&t=3B55BGxwyXe8uWq1Uwi397RdtxqNzUllUMUbNpjhnaA%3D&nav1

Steve

 

http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=176081&highlight=0850

 

Wouter
Can you PM me some links to those Dutch sites?
Dank je wel,

Gerrit

 

Most likely the stripping agent...it may have left some residue.

 

www.marktplaats.nl

 

First remove the old paint completely. Then wash the bare aluminium with water and soap to remove grease and residu.
Then I rub the body with an pretty aggresive paint thinner (go outside!)

I stick the prepared body parts to a wooden stick which I can hold easily during the paint job so I can keep the body on a certain distance while painting.
It also allows me to hold it exactly how I wish without touching the metal.

I first paint it with a few thin layers of Motip acryllic car paint (light grey or white, white will be better with yellow).
I then paint it in the desired colour. Use the same type of lacquer all the time to avoid reactions between layers.

Best,
Wouter

 

Perfect advise, this it the way I have done my resprays for a while now with good results.

I did a little bit of detail stripping last night, nothing really to see just cleaning up around the edges, I hope to get some primer laid on by the end of the week.

 

In terms of converting to a spyder or painting as the yellow 412P.........the body shape differences between the spyder and berlinetta in the rear deck are considerable (and Revell did a spyder version which you might still find on fleabay). Also there was only 1 spyder originally and 3 berlinettas, though all 3 were converted to spyders for their last WC race.

The main thing is that the engine in the model is the P4 engine, while the yellow car and the other 412Ps (or P3s if you will) had the engine with intakes centrally between the cylenders rather than between the camshafts (all the Revell 1/18 have the same engine, so in the green or white versions it's wrong).

Just my $0.02......but as a P4 berlinetta it could be the #24 car at Daytona, #3 or 4 at Monza, #9 at Spa, and #19, 21 or 24 at Le Mans 1967.

Paul M