You'll have to excuse me for not trusting you on this. Remember that's what you said about the TR heads that got you here! "Pretty easy" to one guy is not easy to another!!
I can understand but this is different. It looks there are only 2 issues, the pin/oil feed on the 360 is on the top of the head vs the bottom on the QV and the 360 has 3 oil rerturns vs 2 on the QV, everything else looks like a match. It's not a bolt on, but its not TR heads on a 400 either
Mark, The TIG torch is ready to be picked up by UPS today so you might get it tomorrow. It's a WP-125 if you want to look it up at arczone.com. The amp capacity is only 160 but it will weld inside 5/8" (16 mm) I.D. tubing. An extended wand version of the same torch is also available. I think you can do something useful in your ports with this one. Wil
The trans gear adapter got started Saturday on the wire EDM and should finish up tomorrow if all goes well. Then they'll cut the cut to match and I can machine and get the stuff out to heat treat by next week hopefully. Very cool. I guess I'll move back on to the engine shaft tonigh so it's ready at the same time.
I just remembered the name of the company that makes the other electronically controlled water pump I was talking about. Go to www.stewartcomponents.com and take a look at Electric Water Pump # E558A.
Take 2 on the clutch shaft....hopefully tomorrow I'll cut the back end to the correct size this time around. Image Unavailable, Please Login
I found that pump at summit after I'd post the other one. It looks like a better deal and they claim a 10k hr life which is an OEM type life number.
If you’ve never seen what a wire EDM can do it’s a pretty cool machine. I took a couple pictures of the slugs it cut off. It will make 4 passes around and the finish dimensions will be within .0002” of perfect. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
it's a wire cutter .... it has 2 reels of wire that has small electrical charge going through it and the wire passes through the and cuts the metal...... i had the small cavallo rampante cut out of alloy so i could press into my new headrest the detail was awesome
Yes. Both the wire and the part erode but since the wire moves so fast only the part is cut. The wire over burns about .001" so the .004 wire cuts a .005 slit. After the chunks are cut the machine goes back for a couple finish passes to get it perfect. The top and bottom heads (wire guides) can move separately to make angles up to about 30 degrees. When the hub comes off the wire it will have the trans splines and splines to lock the gear to the hub. Then it will go to the lathe to get the diameters and threads cut. The plan is there will be a .0002" clearance between the hub and gear, so it will go together but won't have where to move once it is together. The assembly should act like a 1 piece part......at least that's the plan. http://www.edmmachining.com/wire_edm.htm
I finished up most of the lathe work on the new clutch shaft. The only thing left is the thread and I can't cut a metric thread on my lathe so I'll ask a friend to do it for me then I can get started cutting the splines tomorrow night. These splines need to be cut not wired because the wire is a line of sight machine that needs a straight line in one side and out the other and that is just not the way the shaft is and there is no way I can make it that way like I could with the hub. This shaft has the shorter length I need and the gear mounting section is a copy of the trans shaft to work with the trans gear. The trans gear has a longer flange than the engine gear which will put it in the wrong spot and that will never do so I'll need to cut that flange down to match the engine gear lenght. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
EDM stands for Electric Discharge Machining. The electric current coming of of the moving and chilled wire, erodes the metal of the part being cut, one tiny piece at a time. It's usually done in a climate controlled environment to keep dimensions stable. The process is so accurate that the male and female parts of a big blanking die (for cutting sheet metal car parts for instance) are often made from the same billet of steel. You get the donut and the hole piece, so-to-speak, in one pass. It's a slow process and, of course, is a Computer Aided Machining process.
Here's the hub off the wire. The gear will be off in an hour or so. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Threads are on the shaft and the nut fits right. On to the splines tonight. The torch Wil lent me got here today and just like he said it fits right into the port.....oh the possibilities Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Excuse me if I'm going over territory covered before ( I have not read all 95, or so, pages) but what alloy did you turn that shaft from and are you going to heat treat and grind it? EDM is truly amazing isn't it?
WOW!!!!!!! I think that from now on when any owner is fretting over a DIY project, they should be referred to this thread! I'm so very impressed by what you are doing Mark! This is such a cool project. it makes me want to go out and start working on my GT4. JIM
Mark- You are just unbelievable. You should have been working in the Ferrari prototype shops in the 1960s. In your element even if not making enough money to pay for pasta. Thanks for this great thread. I want to make sure I hear a video of your unique V12 firing up when completed. Should be music, and unheard music at that. Taz Terry Phillips
Thanks for the kind words guys....now I just need to learn the difference between what I can do and what I should do I got started on the splines tonight but I got off to a slow start. It's been a while since I've used some of the tools so I had to find it, had to find bolts to set it up, had to clean off some rust. Anyway it's together now and making chips. I got the first groove cut and it looks pretty good. Tomorrow night I'll start by cutting the one opposite so I can get the minor diameter measurement so I can get the cut depth just right and finish this end off hopefully. Image Unavailable, Please Login
