Here's the pictures of the gear for yesterday. It just needs a little counter bore front and back now and it's done. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
"She Blinded Me With Science- (Thomas Dolby) keeps popping through my head when I read this thread.............................................
How else do you think so much gets done in such little time! Mk e from 6 months ahead is coming back in time to help! I'm just wondering - Is the to do list getting shorter now, or does it still continue to grow (it's about time for another, what if.... or while I'm at it...)? I'm guessing that it might be the latter now you have the new port torch! It goes without saying, but this is absolutely stunning work, and great entertainment!
The 6 months from now me is still up to his eyeballs in ferrari v12 and refuses to help today me Rushing me just exploded the only cutter I had for the splines.....2 new ones should be here tomorrow. The list hasn't really gotten shorter becasue the items were just big overview items that aren't really done yet. It may get longer, I just interviewed with a company that makes....carbon fiber stuff Image Unavailable, Please Login
Mark you lunatic I just can't get enough of your mad project. I really hope this thing puts down some big time power once your done with it.
When you want to know stuff, Wikipedia is a pretty good place to start: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wire_edm
Splines cut and the gear fits on nicely. Now to get the clutch to fit on the other end. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Mark, If it has been discussed already I missed it, but why did you significantly reduce the size of the clutch-shaft on the gear end? I also see that you're wearing a wedding ring in the latest pics: do you want to make us believe that your wife is still with you in all this madness???
I am switching the engine and transmission drop gears. The change will both reduce the torque going to the trans and raise all the gears to ratios better suit the new engine. The down side is I had to either cut out the trans gear hub to engine shaft size or reduce the engine shaft size. I chose to leave the trans gear alone since I had to make a new shaft anyway. The diameter reduction is not as bad as it looks. The minor diameter of the trans gear is 1.024” but the minor diameter of the clutch spline is 1.000” so the clutch area should still be the weak link. Also, the diameter works on the trans input shaft with no problems and I’m going to be putting just about the same torque though it that it saw with my supercharged engine….I think it will be ok. She is very understanding......as long as I only work on the car when she's not home and never speak of it when she can hear
I finally got a little time in the shop today and has able to cut the clutch splines on the new shaft, it fits nicely in the clutch hub. Now I just need to cut a couple notches on the end for locking the gear retaining nut and it's ready for heat treat. Friday the guys in the shop finished the outside of the new trans gear hub and made the ring nut that locks the gear on. The gear is a very light press on, nice. I still need to bore out the ID of the hub so the trans nut will fit down inside to finish the hub up. The gear is wating for counter bores on bother sides and the ring nut needs a hole pattern drill so it will accept a spanner so there is some way to tighten it. Hopefully I can finish all this stuff up tomorrow so I can ship it all out to the heat treater Monday. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
I got the notches cut in the clutch shaft and the trans gear hub ID bored out today. The hub fits gthe trans shaft nicely. I tried boring the counter bores on the trans gear but mainly only succeeded in removing material from my boring tooling I think that was due to the interupted cut and hopefully when I set it up on the rotary table tonight I'll have better luck with a carbide end mill then I did with the boring tool. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Mike, This project is awe inspiring. I'm glad you are back on the job, and follow it with interest. I was going through withdrawal there wondering if you were ever going to post again! (Ha ha) Thanks for including so much detail and the good pictures. I love your approachs to every problem/issue. Can't wait for more. Jon
Thanks Jon. Here's a second post for the day to help with the withdrawal. I got the rotary table set up tonight and cut the counterbore into the first side of the gear. The endmill cut without a problem. There are some burs around the splines I need to remove before I can do a test fit, but the gear material is too hard to file with a standard file. I know one of the guys at work has a set of diamond files so I'll barrow them tomorrow and see if I can get a picture with the bellhousing and gears in place. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Fchat went down last night about the time I was ready to post my nightly update so you're getting yesterday's news today. Side 2 of the gear is now counterbored and all deburred. The nut fits in the gear properly, the gear fits on the hub properly, the new shaft appears correct, the hub appears to fit on the trans shaft correctly and the all the gear appear to be in about the right spots. I think its looking pretty good and it sure feels like I'm winning the battle this week. Tonight I need to put the spanner holes in the nut and make a spacer for the trans shaft. The spacer will combine the features of the stock spacer and stock bearing race to put the gear hub in the correct spot with just one part instead of 2 and since Im no longer using a bearing in the stock location having the race on the shaft would just look silly/Mickey Mouse. Then off to the heat treaters with the new bits and I can get cutting on the bellhousing to finish that up. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Thanks Tonight I popped the spanner holes into the gear retaining nut and made a spanner minus the pins becasue it turned out the pins I had were soft steel and useless. I'll see if I can track down hardened pins tomorrow......everything just takes longer than it should it seems. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Drill bits may be cheap but if you mean standard HSS (high speed steel) or cheaper drill bits, the round, un-fluted end that fits in the chuck isn't hardened. Try it with a file. Universal joints, new or old, are a good source for hardened bearing needles which make good small drive pins in a pinch. Looks great Mark!
I decided the handle was too wide to be comfy and look stupid besides so I cut it down. The tool now works, and the nut goes on as it should. I spoke to a couple heat treat shops today trying to decide exactly what I wanted to do. I'm thinking I'll have the shaft nut and spacer done max hard which will be RC 52-56. That is a little soft for the hub since the rollers of the bearing will be running on it, normally we want 58-63 for that.....but I do have way more bearing than I actually need because I had basically fixed dimensions I hard to work with so it would probably be fine. Or I can nitride it to RC 60, but that drops the core hardness to about RC 33 which means less strength, still probably fine though. Or I can carburize it to get RC60 on the outside and still have a 54-56 core but the core doesn't get tempered properly really so it's a little less tough. Appearently 8640 would have been a better choice for this part but is a little hard to come by. I'm leaning toward carburizing to give me the highest tensile number but that is not a real common treatment on 4340....I've still got a few day to think about it.....honestly I'm sure any of the options will work but I'd like it to be the best it can be. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
I made the spacer today and it looks right. Next I'm going to back track just a little. I left the pins that align the engine on the trans a long and it seems like I egged the holes a bit lifting the block on and off....kind of stupid. So, I want to back and fit larger pins so everything fits right again. Also on the kind od stupid list is the end cover for the trans. Originally it had 1 pin in the trans and 1 in the engine. What I should have done is mounted the v8, mounted the end plate and drilled another pin into the trans since the engine pin location was getting cut off.....but I didn't so now it only has 1 pin and I need to figure out where straight is before I can install a second. After that I can start cutting the bellhousing Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
As a complete distraction from what I'm actually working on, here's a couple pics from teh TWM web site. Ferrari v12 set up and there new high mount injector set up....it seems I'm not the only one wanting 2 injectors per cylinder to get optimal injector placement. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
