308 Antifreeze & Coolant Hose Replacement | FerrariChat

308 Antifreeze & Coolant Hose Replacement

Discussion in '308/328' started by Joe_CT, Dec 29, 2008.

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  1. Joe_CT

    Joe_CT Formula 3
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    #1 Joe_CT, Dec 29, 2008
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    I started working on changing out the antifreeze and replacing the coolant hoses today and thought I would document the process. I got the front end of the car complete today. I replaced the "twin" hoses leading to and from the radiator and the lower radiator hose (the upper radiator hose & the long hose had been done before I took ownership of the car last year). I got the NAPA (Gates) gold stripe hose #633 (3 feet of 1-5/8" hose) to get me started. I replaced a few of the 2" clamps and cleaned and reused a couple others (as they were in good shape).

    I will be moving back to the engine side in the coming days and will keep posting. I think this is where things will get interesting (hoses under the intake). I also need to refinish the expansion tank as there is a lot of rust on the outside. Here are the steps I took so far with a few pics. All in today, this process took me about 2.5 hours, including cleanup, and there was a mess ;) More to come...

    1) got the car partially up in the air (the lift makes all the difference here)
    2) removed the front access panel
    3) removed the long hose from the lower "twin" pipe to drain the system
    4) removed the "twin" hoses support clamp then removed the hoses
    5) removed the lower radiator hose
    6) cleaned clamps to be reused
    7) cut the new hose to size
    8) installation was the reverse of steps 2-5
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  2. Jdubbya

    Jdubbya The $10 Trillion Man
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    You should check the heater hoses while you're in there. Mine were in pretty bad shape. It's not an easy job but replacing the big hoses is really only half the job.
     
  3. Joe_CT

    Joe_CT Formula 3
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    #3 Joe_CT, Dec 30, 2008
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Agreed, plan to do all the hoses over the course of this winter project.

    Unfortunately did not get much accomplished today other than to pull the hose off the expansion tank to sand down all the rust on the nipple. I sanded it all down and topped it with Eastwoods Rust Encapsulator. I'll respay the entire espansion tank with high temp paint at another date. Other than that I just started researching and mapping out how I am going to get to all the hoses in the engine bay.

    Tomorrow, I'll be pulling the water pump and assembly off as it looks like that is the only way to get at the hoses under the intake plenum. If all goes well tomorrow, I hope to have those complete. I'll than have to order the thermostat (& gasket), the O-ring, and the water pump gasket prior to reassembly. I hope this is not to bad of a job on an '85 308. I see some posts that say the water pump comes right off and I see others that say the timing belt covers need to come off (and that takes some work for the front bank). Any thoughts / comments from the group would be appreciated (I'm a little intimidated right now).
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  4. Steve King

    Steve King F1 Rookie

    Feb 15, 2001
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    Joe just a little future hint here. The 3rd picture taken from under the car showing the heater hose nipple. When I replaced hoses I installed a TEE in this line. You can get it from one of the local auto parts stores. It has a water hose fitting at the tee. So in the future when you need to do the anual antifreeze replacement all you need to do is remove the cap in the tee and you can dump almost all of the AF in one shot with little or no mess. FYI
     
  5. 308 milano

    308 milano F1 Veteran

    Jan 15, 2007
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    Steve, really good idea! I wish I had done that as I've had to dump the antifreeze twice in the last 16 months to address maintenence issues and both times its been a PITA. So goes the life of a first time owner!
     
  6. Joe_CT

    Joe_CT Formula 3
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    Thanks for the heads up. I will pick one up the next time I am at the auto parts store. I think it is going to be a while before I get the fluid back in the car. The hoses in the engine bay are a little more difficult to access than I originally anticipated. It will be nice to have a "clean" way to drain the fluid. My eyes and shirt thank you. ;)
     
  7. Steve King

    Steve King F1 Rookie

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  8. pad

    pad Formula 3

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    Early 308s required removing the timing belt covers to remove the water pump. Not so with the QVs
     
  9. Birdman

    Birdman F1 Veteran

    Jun 20, 2003
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    Joe,
    get yourself a cheap hose cutter at NAPA for $20. It will slice the hoses cleanly, easily and neatly. Lose the utility knife before you lose a thumb!!

    Birdman
     
  10. doug328

    doug328 Formula 3

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    #10 doug328, Dec 31, 2008
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Good that you are changing out the cooling system hoses, It's a cheap way to improve the reliability of the car. At least you won't have to worry about a $5.00 hose or clamp letting go on the highway. When i replaced mine last year, I also took out the radiator and had it boiled/cleaned out and pressure tested, cost $95.00, more cheap insurance. Also replaced the thermo switch for the fans and a new thermostat & gasket. Took one of the smaller heater hoses off and checked inside for crackes/ect. It wasn't bad so i just replaced it, It looked like a big job to replace them all, especially the long one from the engine to the front heater boxes, save those for another day. The only 2 hoses I didn't replace were the 2 under the intake plenum. I will do those 2 this winter, after I get myself prepaired to take the plenum off. Good luck with the rest of your project.
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  11. Joe_CT

    Joe_CT Formula 3
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    #11 Joe_CT, Dec 31, 2008
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Okay, today was a fun day. Got the water pump off (4 bolts and it slides right out, assembly and all).

    Steps:

    1) remove rear tire and wheel well liner
    2) drain the block (I used the worse funnel you will ever see... I folded cardboard in half and cut to length... the coolant ran down that and dripped into the catch pan... not pretty but worked great... no fluid where I did not want it... pic 1)
    3) remove coolant tube running down side of motor (attaches at the thermostat and by the lower passenger side fire wall... pic 2)
    4) loosen bolts on water pump belt tensioner (pic 3)
    5) loosen clamps on hoses behind water pump assembly
    6) unbolt 4 bolts holding on water pum & assembly and it slides right out (pic 4)
    7) two coolant hoses can be removed by getting you hands in under the plenum and loosing the clamps and the hoses slide right out (pic 5 & 6)

    Probably a good time to replace the small hose coming from the expansion tank to the header pipe under the plenum as that is the easy way to get to the clamp and fitting... see last pic) It is NAPA part #10100 (5' of 3/8 ID coolant hose)

    I just ordered the all the necessary parts frm McCann's today (O ring, Thermostat & Gasket, Water Pump Gasket) so hopefully they will be here on Friday so I can keep moving. I'll spend tomorrow completing the hoses on the drivers side of the engine and cleaning all the crud on the engine.

    Birdman, thanks for the tip. Going to NAPA on Friday morning to pick up more hoses, I'll see if they have one there.

    Doug, you do not need to pull the plenum to get the hoses off, just pull the water pump... see below.

    I hope this is helping for those who are considering doing the job themselves... pretty easy so far.
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  12. Joe_CT

    Joe_CT Formula 3
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    #12 Joe_CT, Jan 1, 2009
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    I don't know if I am just getting tired, it was cold, or had too much to drink last night, but these two hoses seemed to kick my butt today. I got the two hoses on the driver side, one right under the rear bank distributor cap (very tight access) and the one that attaches to the other end of that pipe (lower drivers side firewall).

    I am hopeful the parts will come from McCann's tomorrow so I can get everything put back together on Fri / Sat, get her filled with fluid, check for leaks, and call it a project.
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  13. Corsa308

    Corsa308 Formula Junior

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    Yep I'd agree to that one, I have been doing some work around the front of my car lately.
    The main hoses are OK, but have a good look at the small heater hoses that run from the heater valves and to the heater heat exchangers.
    I bet they will be original. Just because they are a small hose doesn't mean they aren't important. A leak is a leak.
    Never thought about replacing mine until I saw them.
    Also, check out your heat exchangers and clear out all the foliage. I found heaps of leaves and bugs etc jammed in mine.

    Steve

     
  14. RGigante

    RGigante F1 Rookie
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    #14 RGigante, Jan 2, 2009
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Since it is so hard to get at most of the larger coolant hoses, I've replaced them all with silicon hose.
    You can get it in black if you want to keep it looking original, but the blue was readily available.
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  15. Joe_CT

    Joe_CT Formula 3
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    Anyone know the appropriate torque settings for the four (4) water pump housing to engine bolts and the three (3) water pump to housing nuts? I was using 20 ft/lbs on the four bolts and 15 ft/lbs on the three nuts and snapped the lower stud. PLEASE HELP. I thought I had the right torque settings, but obviously I was wrong! AHH!

    Thankfully the broken stud came out easy with a set of vise grips.

    Thanks, Joe
     
  16. branko

    branko F1 Rookie
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    Silicon hose? Is it better than the NAPA hoses?
     
  17. Hans

    Hans F1 Veteran

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    #17 Hans, Jan 3, 2009
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    While you are at it, you might want to take a look at oetiker clamps: http://www.oetiker.com/content.asp?l=4&idNavig=25

    I have these on my airplane (Subaru engine - water cooled) and would not have anything other than those on it. They can be a PITA to install - you need to have the EXACT good size and even then they can be hard to slip over the hose - but once they are one, they will NOT leak. These worm clamps always seem to leak and in need of just one more twist. The oetiker clamps will expand and re-compress, always leaving tension on your hoses.

    You see the same clamps on plenty OEM applications, including on fuel injection systems. They're pretty cheap too...

    Hans
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  18. RGigante

    RGigante F1 Rookie
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    Yes, they should last longer and resist higher pressures than the rubber ones
     
  19. fastradio

    fastradio F1 Rookie
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    On the 8mm bolts (13mm hex size), 18-21 ft-lbs is appropriate.
    On the 6mm nuts (10mm hex size), 6.5 ft-lbs (or 78 in-lbs) would be correct.

    Regards,
    David
     
  20. Joe_CT

    Joe_CT Formula 3
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    Thanks David. I just checked the 10mm and they were at 7 ft/lbs (I did just one light tug after snug... learned the hard way about over tightening). I know I did the 13mm at 18 ft/lbs so looks like I am in good shape.

    Joe
     
  21. Joe_CT

    Joe_CT Formula 3
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    #21 Joe_CT, Jan 11, 2009
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    I put the water pump and housing back on the 308 with all new gaskets and the pump leaked. I took the unit back off the car and have it apart again. I tried to short cut the stud I broke with a bolt. Now that I have it apart again, I want to get the right parts. I need to get part #18, #19, & #42, but can't seem to locate them. McCann's, T Rutland, & Italian Ferrari Parts don't even list the parts. Ricambi list the parts, but does not carry them. Any ideas? I am mostly concerned about part #18 (part #11500721 - stud), the rest I can improvise on, but this one I really need. Picture of part is in the attached word file. This turned out to be a nightmare of a project. Thankfully winters are long here in New England and I have time to fix my mistakes (I also over tightened the 5/8" hose in the front of the car and collapsed the aluminum tube and had to order a new one at a cost of $215).

    Any thoughts from the group?
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  22. Jdubbya

    Jdubbya The $10 Trillion Man
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    Try one of these places, they may have what you need, or be able to find it.........

    http://www.tacomascrew.com/

    http://www.metricmcc.com/

    If Ricambi lists it, did you ask them if they can get it? Just because it's not in stock doesn't mean Daniel won't be able to get it. Maybe you already asked??

    If all else fails find a local machine shop that can make one for you, it's just a double threaded stud.
     
  23. Joe_CT

    Joe_CT Formula 3
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    Thanks John. I am going to call Ricami in the morning. They list the part but indicate "contact us" on price. I am hopeful that they can track them down for me. I am trying to find alternatives it that fails. Also have a call into the dealer to see if they have it.

    Also, for those of you who have removed and reinstalled the water pump and housing, did any of you use any type of peratex? or did you just use the gasket and O-ring?

    I am not sure where the small leak was coming from... I just saw a small amount of fluid under the car and got larger each day (there was a small amount of fluid coming off the bottom of the water pump... but could not see the point of origin).
     
  24. thecarreaper

    thecarreaper F1 World Champ
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    #24 thecarreaper, Jul 5, 2009
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    wish i had seen this earlier. i removed my warm up regulator, and replaced both of my plenum hoses in about 40 minutes. no need to mess with the water pump or disturb the plenum and expensive gaskets. i just finished replacing the front hoses yesterday. i use a 1/4 inch drive ratchet with a socket, and a long thin screwdriver to get to the clamps when they are in tight spots. i also use a SMALL amount of Vaseline on the metal pipes to facilitate the new hoses sliding into place. my local NAPA did not have the 633 hose, so i ordered the hoses from Superperformance. now all the cooling hoses are done , and the system is served and bled. next up : the fuel hoses!

    i will add the info in the gas strut thread, but i went ot Advance Autoparts and bought the two Strong arm gas struts for my rear decklid and replaced them too. perfect fit, and around $25.00 ( dont remember exact price).
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  25. thecarreaper

    thecarreaper F1 World Champ
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    ps, 3 bottles of Water wetter, 1/2 gallon of antifreeze for corrosion and water pump lube, and the rest distilled water. car runs super cool in Georgia summer.
     
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