Replacing of transmission mount on 360

Anyone did this job by himself? I plan to do it and if there would be any advice for easiest way how, would be great. Mine was still not replaced and its of course cracked.....Picture of part attached.
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I made a tool to do mine. Here is a picture of it when I thought I could it manually. I've since adapted it to use a hydraulic ram.
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Or.... get the Hill Engineering tool:

http://www.ricambiamerica.com/product_info.php?products_id=258512

11 pounds of brute force.

 

VERY nice tool mate!

 

I've had mine done twice (I didn't do it), but was told freezing the part helps to get it in.

 

We also had some difficulty to remove the bushing with a screw type puller. Had to use lots of penetrating oil like WD-40, let it soak in, then use some heat on gearbox casing around the bushing to help along the removal.


Heating the casing and freezing the bushing will help installation.

Oh, for Challenge cars we switched to solid bushing for both gearbox and engine mount.

 

How long have you had that? I looked before I built and didn't see that.

 

About a year.

 

Guys, thanks a lot for your feedback. the tool is great however good for some mechanic, i dont think its best choice for my one time change.

Can you provide me with basic info how to proceed? I mean one thing is remove old and put new - thats clear. But what should i do to access the area and which parts i have to take out, unscrew or how to unmount the transmission. Ferrari told me its neccessary to remove the frame in engine area, etc.... is it correct?

 

That tool is cheap to make. Just measure the bush and have a tube cut slightly longer than the bush. You need a "cap" to fit over the end, and one that's slightly smaller than the outside diameter of the bush, a piece of threaded bar, some nuts and washers. I made mine up in a couple of hours, unlike the genuine Ferrari one it doesn't have bearings to spread the load, but liberall aplications of c.v grease over the washers works just as well. I've done loads of those with it now, it works a treat. Spend the time heating the gearbox casing around the bush with a hot air gun and it will come out o.k. When refitting, make sure you use the Tapered edge of the bush to start it, otherwise it will never go in. I also clean the gearbox casing where the bush sits with scotchbrite and apply a liberal amount of lubricant to help with the refitting.

 

Thanks, i will check what i can do. If i will have some difficulties i will get back

 

Just replaced mine. (360)
Had a go myself using a potable hydraulic press and it broke the threaded rod!!
Would not budge.
Got F dealer to do it during service. Very, very hard to get out on most cars according to F-mechanic.
They had to heat up the casing to get it out. Only way apparently.
Don't have to unscrew the tranny. Just support it and yes, remove airbox and frame etc.
Andrew

 

Thanks, good to know. I will give it try.

 

I used a front wheel bearing removal tool kit. It has the strength and sizes you'll need to get the job done quickly. Some outfits rent them.

 

Did you get it out?

 

ok, after some time i finally decided to change my broken transmission mount. I do not have any special tool. I used long screw and two pipes to imitate little bit the original tool. It was very helpful to get it out even it took me few hours - realy crazy job. But i just had no idea that the worst thing is waiting for me - get the new one in. I spent whole afternoon to put new one in but no chance. I just can not get it in that damn hole. Used lot of lubricant and also trying to used my fabricated tool but just no way to do it. The biggets problem is that the mount is always going inside sideward instead of 90 degrees. No chance to adjust it straight and i am afraid to push it sideward to crack the body. Any advice that to do?

 

There is a beveled lip on one side of the mount which must go in first, but I am sure you know that.

I would bet it's mostly the distribution of force on the mount from the tool you made. You might try a large socket that fits the diameter of the outer ring of the mount body.

Try this one: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/FWD-Front-Wheel-Bearing-Puller-Remover-Installer-Tool_W0QQitemZ250388636649QQcmdZViewItem

Here's their direct site: http://kinetikautotools.com/

Here's the tool on their site: http://kinetikautotools.com/product_info.php?cPath=22&products_id=42&osCsid=6fe9a21760385a6d8f8e0d479a0df160

 

Many mounts are out of round. They also have a very tight interference fit. The combination can be very bad.

 

I came across this tool rental place that may have an applicable bearing puller set.

See: http://www.germanautoparts.com/Tools/Audi

 

thanks for the advice on the tool, i have similar one.

I tried the old mount and it goes in much better. Thinking to machine the new one.Just very little the surface so this could help......

 

They should press in mate! If you have the right tools, it shouldnt be too much of a hassle.

I press bushes in at work ALL the time. Some can be a pain in the ass, most times with the right press tools they go in quite easily.

I probably wouldnt machine it. The last thing you want is for it come loose and move around in there. They are a tolerance fit, taking the slightest amount of material off the bush is not really good for it.

The trick is to get it squared up. Once you do, it will go straight in.

I am sure you understand what I have just posted, but its your call mate.

 

Put the new one in the freezer overnight, then try to install it. Dont machine it.

 

I also had it in fridge and heated the body but it did not help.

But i just finished the work today. I machined just edge of the lip. I adjusted the original lip and machined first 1 cm by 0,3mm down. I did not touch rest of bushing. This gave me chance to adjust 90 degrees and i put it int easy on first attempt. Actually "easy" is relative, i cracked 2 times my tool when i was almost at the end and i had to used spring compressors to finish it. Generaly crazy job but i am happy at the end

 

Did you per chance photograph the edges as you machined them?

 

unfortunately too late, its already on car. But as you mentioned before, there is bevelled lip (about 0,3 cm) on one side of bushing. So i just extended this bevelled part so it was 1 cm long. I took off 0,3 mm on first 0,8 cm and than 0,1mm on 0,2 cm. So i was able to put manualy by hand this 1 cm inside (althought it was still very tight) - this gave me guarantee i am in 90 degrees position. than i used my tool and it went in. Since i did not machined all part there is no danger of anything. I got this advice from my friend who use this solution for similar bushings for lot of cars.