308 elec window fixed for £12 (cable replacement)

There have been several threads about 308/328 window winders, but I think this is new. Please forgive me if not.


So I have previously serviced the winder (2 years ago), stripped it down, cleaned and lubricated the motor and winder gearbox. At that time I could see the cable was looking rough and sure enough it snapped recently and for the last few weeks a timber off-cut has been holding the glass up.

A few phone calls indicated £180 for a new winder assembly, but not in stock. So I might as well have a go fixing my own. This is how I did it.


1) remove door trim and winder assembly in ususal fashion.
2) remove winder motor from unit and set aside (stip and service if so required)
3) unscrew cover to winder gearbox and set aside parts
4) remove winding captstan / wormgear unit and clean off grease

cont./...
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5) Remove the spring circlip buried in the centre of the clutch pressure plate, if you can. I could not get the dammed thing out, so cut away the washer and circlip
(the blue steel circular plate forces the plastic capstan and winding gear together so that the dog clutch teeth engage.
6) separate winder capstan, note cable threading then remove two parts of cable
7) fit broken end back together and tape up
8) measure off new cable, mark and cut off 1" (25mm long at each end). I used 1.5mm2 40Kg break steel wire cable from local HOMEBASE store, 4mtrs is required. To acheive a clean cut I used a sharp wood chisel onto a metal block and a smart blow with a hammer! BEWARE THE CUT PARTS FLY FAST - recommend safety glasses for this.

cont./ ...
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9) make two steel nipples 6mm diameterOD x 4mm long centre drilled at 2.5mm diameterID. I happen to have a lathe, making this easy, but with patience you could hacksaw and file a piece of 6mm rod, or a bolt shank, then drill the hole through. The centring of the hole isn't critical, but should be reasonable.
10) make two round taper wedges, about 1mm minimum diameter and 5 degrees taper. Again easy with a lathe, but with a little patience the a reasonable taper could be filed onto a rod.
11) string the new cable into the capstan.
12) hold the cable end, at the mark, in a vice. Fit the nipple over the wire and spread the cable fibres and let it reston teh top of the vice jaws (at the mark on the cable).
13) tap in the wedge to hold. NOT TOO TIGHT, we do not want to cut the steel wire fibres.
14) solder the nipple (may require some plumber's flux).
15) cut off the excess length of the wedge and file up neatly.

cont./ ...
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16) wind the cable onto the capstan and tape on with masking tape / insulating tape. I left a LONG tail of tape, doubled back on itself, so that once the assembly is back inside the door and strung around the pullleys I could easily get hold of the tape and pull it clear.
17) cross drill the shaft - to accept a split pin in place of the original circlip. I you find a way to save the original circlip, you're better at this than I am.
18) reassemble worm gear onto capstan.
19) compress the circular spring plate in the jaws of the vice and fit the circlip. I found the split pin takes up the same space as the original washer.
20) reassemble the capstan back into the winder. NOTE the position of the two cables either side of the support pillar

cont. / ...
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Finally onto the home run.
21) re-assemble winder gearbox, refit motor.
22) re-fit winder to door and string cable around the pulley route

I wasn't happy with the cable just being trapped under the lock nut, so I made a tab washer (folded down the edge of a penny washer and filed a second washer to suit). This contains the cable better and doesn't have the same mashing effect when it is tightened up.

23) align the glass and test.

EASY... and now I ache from kneeling at the door, I have skin missing from my arms and hands and I'm covered in Dinitrol! Anyhow, there's another cheap fix done.


Yours,

David

308GTS carb.
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I'd love to take the credit, but this is a scaled down version of the way crane ropes are terminated. ie: rope is passed through a hollow block and a wedge is fitted and driven home. As the tension comes on the rope (during use) it tends to pull the wedge in further to increase the grip.

The original termination on the winder cable looks like a crimped fitting, or solder block. I couldn't replicate that, so had to scale down the ring and wedge idea. So far it is working...


David
.
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Paul,


I'm terrible for re-drafting things, but I think what I wrote first time was near enough... so I'd leave it as it is. I just wish the pictures had come out a bit better, but they looked okay at the time on the camera's little LCD screen!


For clarity folks: When fitting the wedge...

12a) put the cable in the jaws of the vice so that it the correct end length mark is projecting 4mm above the vice.
12b) tighten the vice to hold the cable, without crushing the cable
12c) fit the nipple, this should run down the cable and sit on top of the vice jaws
12d) spread the cable fibres
12e) tap in the wedge

this way the nipple is supported at a specific position on the cable, as you drive in the locking wedge...



Now what shall I mess with? I don't have my Ferrari to play with... it has just gone to the Greatest Little Paint Shop in Wales. ie: trailer for a new thread, once I start getting pictures from the bare metal re-spray.

I'll make an adaptor mount for my video tripod, then I think I'm making a steering wheel boss for a friend's Lotus Elite.


David.