355 ENGINE OUT (with 4 post hoist) THE SAFE WAY with pictures | Page 3 | FerrariChat
Buy

355 ENGINE OUT (with 4 post hoist) THE SAFE WAY with pictures

Discussion in '348/355' started by cf355, Mar 1, 2009.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Page 3 of 7
  1. cf355

    cf355 F1 Rookie

    Feb 28, 2005
    4,208
    Full Name:
    chris
    #51 cf355, Mar 15, 2009
    Last edited: Mar 15, 2009
    Thanks Jay, I'm in the home stretch now
     
  2. cf355

    cf355 F1 Rookie

    Feb 28, 2005
    4,208
    Full Name:
    chris
    #52 cf355, Mar 15, 2009
    Thanks Scott,
    Nothing nuts about being creative and the serger thread cone makes the stretching oring issue a 'non issue'.

    I'll post photos of the marrying of the body to the powertrain including how to install those difficult hoses without breaking a sweat.
     
  3. marinelo

    marinelo Formula Junior

    Jan 18, 2004
    309
    Toronto
    Full Name:
    Rob
    #53 marinelo, Mar 15, 2009
    Great Job Chris , lots of credit to you , I dont think I could tackle such an intimidating job ! You'l be on the road soon ....
     
  4. cf355

    cf355 F1 Rookie

    Feb 28, 2005
    4,208
    Full Name:
    chris
    #54 cf355, Mar 15, 2009
    Thanks Rob,
    I look forward to driving her again now that the weather is decent again.
     
  5. cf355

    cf355 F1 Rookie

    Feb 28, 2005
    4,208
    Full Name:
    chris
    #55 cf355, Mar 15, 2009
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    At this point the motor is completed with the cam covers installed, tbelt covers installed, new waterpump installed plus the new auxillary belts on.
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
     
  6. cf355

    cf355 F1 Rookie

    Feb 28, 2005
    4,208
    Full Name:
    chris
    #56 cf355, Mar 16, 2009
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Installed new gas filters (2) with new seals.
    Note: when you first take the motor out you should leave the gas cap open (1/4 turn on) to prevent pressurization of the fuel tank and subsequent leaking of fuel out of the fuel filters. You need the leave the cap on a bit though to prevent fumes in your garage. Despite this I still found a little dribble periodically and had to empty the plastic bags I attatched to the fuel filter lines (again fumes). What you should do, is take off the old filters and drain them and just reinstall them till you are ready to install the new ones. This stops the drips completely (and I also bagged with elastic bands the fuel line ends for fumes).
    And you should also run your tank down to low before you start your service.

    Installed all new hoses on firewall with clamps except for 2" L hoses (2) and S hose (1)

    Position Ypipe (exhaust) vertical for clearence for dropping the chassis
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
     
  7. Mr Dobermann

    Mr Dobermann Karting

    Jul 31, 2005
    162
    #57 Mr Dobermann, Mar 16, 2009
    Are you not gonna clean the engine and enginebay before you put the motor back in?

    K /// Sweden.
     
  8. cf355

    cf355 F1 Rookie

    Feb 28, 2005
    4,208
    Full Name:
    chris
    #58 cf355, Mar 16, 2009
    I am concentrating on the mechanicals on the car but once the car is put back together and running I will fully shampoo and detail the engine bay. I'll post some photos when its done.
     
  9. Mr Dobermann

    Mr Dobermann Karting

    Jul 31, 2005
    162
    #59 Mr Dobermann, Mar 16, 2009
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Ok. By the way - nice work you have done there.

    I have worked on my engine/subframe/chassies the whole winter. Had a lot to do. But now its getting time to put it back in, very soon. Just gonna replace the fuel lines and couplings, and then its going in. After that im gonna build a new exhaust.

    Here are some pics.(Borrowing your thread, sorry).

    Regards, Kimmo /// Sweden.
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
     
    Buckets likes this.
  10. cf355

    cf355 F1 Rookie

    Feb 28, 2005
    4,208
    Full Name:
    chris
    #60 cf355, Mar 16, 2009
    Last edited: Mar 16, 2009
    Very sweet ride.
    What make of headers are installed on your car?
    Did you powder coat the subframe?
    I'm interested in hearing about the exhaust your going to build.
     
  11. Mr Dobermann

    Mr Dobermann Karting

    Jul 31, 2005
    162
    #61 Mr Dobermann, Mar 16, 2009
    Last edited: Mar 16, 2009
    Thank you...

    My Headers are still the factory ones. They have been replaced ones, but i founded a small crack/hole in one primary pipe, so i have gone trough them, and welded them one last time. They will last the summer, then its time to replace them too. I have also wrapped them in exhaust-bandage.

    The exhaust im gonna build is gonna be SS-steel, of course. 2 small Mufflers after the "main-cats" and then free flow over 3500-4000 rpm, when the bypass opens. No mufflers then, after the bypass valve.

    Replacing the bypass with a Capristo one. All flanges and such are gonna be lazer-cutted.

    I think the exhaust will be very nice. I have drawed it already, just waiting for the parts to start building it after i have got the engine in to the car.

    This winter i have also made new fully adjustable Anti-sway-bars in front and rear. Thats the yellow "knife" with the shiny drop-link in one of the pics. Gonna be interesting to see how they perform.

    Kimmo /// Sweden.
     
  12. Mr Dobermann

    Mr Dobermann Karting

    Jul 31, 2005
    162
    #62 Mr Dobermann, Mar 16, 2009
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
  13. cf355

    cf355 F1 Rookie

    Feb 28, 2005
    4,208
    Full Name:
    chris
    #63 cf355, Mar 16, 2009
    When you get the exhaust built you need to post photos of it and a soundtrack.
    Will you be building new headers next winter or are you going to go with something like fabspeed or tubi?
    And those adjustable sway bars would be excellent for track use.......you need to post the results after you have put the car back on the street.
     
  14. ernie

    ernie Two Time F1 World Champ
    Lifetime Rossa Owner

    Nov 19, 2001
    22,620
    The Brickyard
    Full Name:
    The Bad Guy
    #64 ernie, Mar 16, 2009
    I noticed those, VERY nice! Did you also use a thicker bar?
     
  15. Mr Dobermann

    Mr Dobermann Karting

    Jul 31, 2005
    162
    #65 Mr Dobermann, Mar 17, 2009
    Yes, i can post some pictures when the exhaust is ready.

    I used quite thick pipes for the sway bars. 35 mm in fact. Not solid bars, but Chrome Moly bars with a wall thickness of 3 mm. The OEM mounted sway bars are way to thin for track use. Also turnable knives, uniballs and adjustable droplink.

    I also had my shocks completely redone. Opened and revalved + new Proflex/Demerde racing springs. The shocks are now optimized for clubracing/track. Apx 50/60 % stiffer than the factory settings.

    More pics will come, in another thread.

    Regards, Kimmo / Sweden.
     
  16. ernie

    ernie Two Time F1 World Champ
    Lifetime Rossa Owner

    Nov 19, 2001
    22,620
    The Brickyard
    Full Name:
    The Bad Guy
    #66 ernie, Mar 17, 2009
    That must be really harsh to drive on the street, but sweet on the track. Are you going to lower the car also, or did you accomplish that with the new springs?
     
  17. Mr Dobermann

    Mr Dobermann Karting

    Jul 31, 2005
    162
    #67 Mr Dobermann, Mar 17, 2009
    Personally i think that the OEM 355 suspension is too soft and "non performing" even for the street. There are so much that can be taken to a higher level with these cars.

    Im gonna lower my car, i ordered the Proflex springs shorter and harder.

    I think the car is gonna be like a new car efter these mods.

    Kimmo /// Sweden.
     
  18. johan6504

    johan6504 Formula 3

    Jun 28, 2005
    1,168
    Sweden
    Full Name:
    Johan
    #68 johan6504, Mar 17, 2009
    Looks like you have been busy, it is all looking very nice :) looking forward to see you on the road soon...
     
  19. cf355

    cf355 F1 Rookie

    Feb 28, 2005
    4,208
    Full Name:
    chris
    #69 cf355, Mar 17, 2009
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
  20. cf355

    cf355 F1 Rookie

    Feb 28, 2005
    4,208
    Full Name:
    chris
    #70 cf355, Mar 17, 2009
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    and watch the clearence for the bypass pipe. Once the frame is totally lowered, you pull it into position.

    p.s. all the electrical cables are gently tied out of the way
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
     
  21. cf355

    cf355 F1 Rookie

    Feb 28, 2005
    4,208
    Full Name:
    chris
    #71 cf355, Mar 17, 2009
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
  22. cf355

    cf355 F1 Rookie

    Feb 28, 2005
    4,208
    Full Name:
    chris
    #72 cf355, Mar 18, 2009
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    The 2 inch L hose and the s hose can be a pain to install if the chassis is fully down....so what you do is........

    Lower the chassis till it is about 2 inches above the FULLY lowered point.
    Install the small 's' hose and the right 2" 'L' hose so that they just rest against the firewall connection.
    Then slowly lower the car till the chassis is married to the powertrain and the 2 hoses will slip on their fittings.
    Next install the left 2" 'L' hose on the thermostat and bolt the thermostat cover down.
    Install the hose clamps and you are done in no time.
    The power streering lines that go over the bulk head are also hooked up at this time.
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
     
  23. Mr Dobermann

    Mr Dobermann Karting

    Jul 31, 2005
    162
    #73 Mr Dobermann, Mar 18, 2009
    Nice work there... :)

    I see that your gas/throttlewire is in place in the last picture. Seems to be as tight as it should. When i took my engine out i found my wire loose/slacking with apx 10-15 mm, wich is not good at all. Some people say it should be pretty much slack in this wire, otherwise the car can be very "stressful" or aggressive to drive, but i find it hard to belive. If the wire has alot of slack, you are gonna loose some throttle respons, wich in my opinion is worse...

    Kimmo /// Sweden.
     
  24. cf355

    cf355 F1 Rookie

    Feb 28, 2005
    4,208
    Full Name:
    chris
    #74 cf355, Mar 18, 2009
    I concur that too much slack is not a good thing and 10-15 mm sounds like a lot.
    I just re-assembled it the way it came off making sure the throttles are fully closed at rest.
     
  25. cf355

    cf355 F1 Rookie

    Feb 28, 2005
    4,208
    Full Name:
    chris
    #75 cf355, Mar 19, 2009
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Install 8 frame bolts at rear of subframe and 12 bolts at firewall.
    Jack car up an inch using hydraulic bottle jacks and install rear tires.
    Remove dollies and reinstall ramps and push car back onto main hoist.

    Note: the dollies are from princess auto . They allow one to easily roll the motor anywhere in the garage and are inexpensive. The wood is bolted to the dolly.
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
     
Page 3 of 7

Share This Page