348 Slow Coolant Leak | FerrariChat

348 Slow Coolant Leak

Discussion in '348/355' started by mj_duell, Mar 26, 2009.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

  1. mj_duell

    mj_duell Formula 3

    Nov 20, 2004
    1,421
    S. Glastonbury, CT.
    Full Name:
    Mike
    #1 mj_duell, Mar 26, 2009
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    O.K. the latest issue to grace my garage floor is a slow coolant leak. I had just completed all of the things I wanted to get done and now I find a nice puddle under the car. Here are the symptoms over the last week for testing and looking for the leak. The leak is slow and amounts to one drip every minute or so. This rate is not effected by the recent hot and cold cycles the engine has been put through and only happens when the engine is cold. The car runs perfectly as far as the cooling is concerned. The heater runs find and I have plenty of heat and water is circulating as far as I can tell. The engine temp runs in the 180-195 range and is steady even when idling for long periods. The fans come on at the same time and go off when the temp goes back down. This leak is not present when the engine is hot or after shut down until the engine reaches room temperature of the unheated garage. The warmer the garage, the slower the leak. As far as I can tell the leak I originally found started during the cars storage. During storage the car was subject to temperatures as low as 15-20 degrees, but had the proper anti-freeze installed. I have recently topped off and bled the system which has had no effect on the rate of drippage.

    I cannot find the leak directly even with the car on jacks. It appears to be the front of the engine toward the center under the back of the lowest pulley wheel next to the alternator. The engine is dry so it would have to be under the belt covers somewhere or at the top of the lower accessories. I have checked all of the upper hoses and the hose under the intake and they are all dry and tight. I have also tried to find the leak from under the car without success. Now this leak is new and was not present when the car was put away for storage; however it had only been kept in a heated garage before. I find it hard to believe that the engine parts metal would be subject to that much change do to the temperature of the garage, as to cause a leak.

    This is really driving me nuts, I was going to try and have the car ready to register this week. I hope it is not the dreaded water pump. I looked at the paperwork from the major done last June at Ferrari of Washington and the pump does not appear to have been changed however there is a charge for a water pump O-ring or gasket on the sheet. Is it possible to tighten the pump while it's in place?

    Oh, one last thing. This leak was a blessing in disguise in a way. When I went under the car to find the leak I found two engine cradle bolts partially backed out, not good. I checked the rest and they seem fine.

    Any input would be great. I'm sure there are other places to look up front, but I just can't see. I have atteched the pump drawing for reference.

    Thanks,

    Mike
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
     
  2. agnello11

    agnello11 Karting

    May 27, 2008
    81
    I would put money on it being the connection at '42' where the rubber hose from the header tank connects to the water jacket manifold. They always seem to corrode on the pipe stub there and then leak.... Very often find that the rubber hose is badly perished there too. Not easy to see as it is buried under the inlet manifold - also doesn't show up while running as the coolant drips onto the top of the Y in the engine then evaporates off. Have a look. Seen a good few that have had this problem now.
     
  3. mj_duell

    mj_duell Formula 3

    Nov 20, 2004
    1,421
    S. Glastonbury, CT.
    Full Name:
    Mike
    Now were talking. I will check that next! I love this board.

    --Mike
     
  4. No Doubt

    No Doubt Seven Time F1 World Champ

    May 21, 2005
    72,740
    Vegas+Alabama
    Full Name:
    Mr. Sideways
    Check connections #41 and hose #40. Might help to buy a cheap flexscope to snake in there. You want to rule out the easy stuff before focusing on the waterpump.
     
  5. rivee

    rivee F1 Rookie

    Jan 20, 2002
    3,731
    Nowhere important, USA
    Full Name:
    John
    Didn't you say the leak was in the front of the motor?
     
  6. Ricambi America

    Ricambi America F1 World Champ
    Sponsor Owner

    And the good news is the Hill Engineering #42 is now available:

    http://www.ricambiamerica.com/product_info.php?products_id=190362
     
  7. mj_duell

    mj_duell Formula 3

    Nov 20, 2004
    1,421
    S. Glastonbury, CT.
    Full Name:
    Mike
    Yes, middle front. I do not see fluid on the intake or the front top of the motor, but I am going to checkout the hose anyway.

    --Mike
     
  8. fatbillybob

    fatbillybob Two Time F1 World Champ
    Consultant Owner

    Aug 10, 2002
    29,067
    socal
    Why guess? Just put a pressure tester on the system and pump it up to say 15 psi and look for the leak as it happens. It is very easy that way. Usual suspects are the under plenum hoses and the water pump.
     
  9. Miltonian

    Miltonian F1 Veteran

    Dec 11, 2002
    5,966
    Milton, Wash.
    Full Name:
    Jeff B.
    Mike, I'd like to compliment you on your first post in this thread. That's probably the best description of a problem that I've ever seen on FChat, and you know the expression, "A good description of the problem is about 90% of the solution."

    I'm also betting that you'll find the leak is coming from the hose connection at #42. When you get a leak here, it usually shows up as a drip from the area of the front of the motor. I had the same problem a few years ago. I was able to change the hose without removing the plenum, and I believe others here have also been able to do it that way, but access is tight, and it helps to have small hands with double-jointed knuckles!
     
  10. mj_duell

    mj_duell Formula 3

    Nov 20, 2004
    1,421
    S. Glastonbury, CT.
    Full Name:
    Mike
    ;) I did not want to get "We need more of a description if you want our help!" I will look tonight and see whats up. Anyway I just solved the 1/4 5/8 CEL issue with a couple new Bosch O2's so things are looking up!

    --Mike
     
  11. rivee

    rivee F1 Rookie

    Jan 20, 2002
    3,731
    Nowhere important, USA
    Full Name:
    John
    I had a problem with the random cel 1/4 too and changing both o2 sensors worked for me too.
     
  12. PAP 348

    PAP 348 Ten Time F1 World Champ
    Lifetime Rossa Owner

    Dec 10, 2005
    100,220
    Mount Isa, Australia
    Full Name:
    Pap
    FBB has the right idea. ;);)

    I would pressure test the cooling system and go from there. :D:D
     
  13. gidge348

    gidge348 Formula Junior

    Dec 12, 2008
    343
    Perth West Australia
    Full Name:
    Ian Wood
    If you DO find it is no:42 and have access to a lathe try making one out of brass, I made mine that way, took about 20 minutes and should out last the car.

    There were brass sensors on each side of the pipe, looked like they had been in there from day one, the brass faces were like brand new but the original steel pipe looked like a cauliflower.
     
  14. mj_duell

    mj_duell Formula 3

    Nov 20, 2004
    1,421
    S. Glastonbury, CT.
    Full Name:
    Mike
    I have checked and rechecked all of the top hose connections and not one is leaking, even under pressure. The entire top and top front of the engine is dry and I almost got my han permanently stuck to prove that. Again this morning there was the tell-tail front middle puddle. I do not see any way of actually seeing the leak pressure or not without removing the timing covers and I don't see a way of tightening down the water pump bolts. What are the possibilities of a pump being cracked? This is a real issue as the car had the major done before I owned it and I do not want to pull this motor just yet. How do you guy feel about Barr's Leak or any other type of internal sealer? Can the timing covers be removed and the water pump tightened while the motor is still in the car?

    --Mike
     
  15. No Doubt

    No Doubt Seven Time F1 World Champ

    May 21, 2005
    72,740
    Vegas+Alabama
    Full Name:
    Mr. Sideways
    I don't think that it works like that. Waterpumps have a designed weap hole that allow a drip in order to let you know that the seals or bearings are about to let go. Tightening up the waterpump wouldn't help!

    Are you certain that it is a water/coolant leak and not fuel? Your gas tank is right there where you describe the leak.
     
  16. mj_duell

    mj_duell Formula 3

    Nov 20, 2004
    1,421
    S. Glastonbury, CT.
    Full Name:
    Mike
    #16 mj_duell, Mar 27, 2009
    Last edited: Mar 27, 2009
    Yup and cross your fingers. I took today off to find this leak and there is a very small chance I just did and its not the water pump. I was feeling around again up front and I put my hand under the termostat housing and came up with a drop! I check the hose and just under it and it is dry. I just pressurized the system and I am waiting for cool down. I am now betting on the thermostat housing seal or the hose end under pressure while the engine is cold. I hope I am right, it will take a couple hours to find out. This was very hard to find because of the rate of leakage and the fact you have catch it under the right conditions. One of the harder things hindering diagnosis was the evaporation of the coolant on the engine. Please let it be the hose!

    --Mike
     
  17. mj_duell

    mj_duell Formula 3

    Nov 20, 2004
    1,421
    S. Glastonbury, CT.
    Full Name:
    Mike
    Alright now this is getting weird. After letting the engine cool for 5 hours there was no sign of a leak. Not one drop. I checked the water neck and hose, nothing. I wake up this morning and I have the tell-tale small puddle on the ground again. It was fairly warm out yesterday and I believe this delayed the leak in some way. One other thing, the size of the puddle is getting smaller as the weather gets warmer. When the temp gets low enough it drips, around 40 degrees. What can this be? It is driving me nuts! It does not drip when hot, running or even when cold at idle. It only drips for a few hours when cold enough then stops. Everything in the cooling system is working fine! It is coolant for sure, light green and slightly slick. Could a rubber seal be shrinking during cold temps? Why am I not losing coolant under pressure when cold? If this is a weep hole warning, then why is it not constant? I have never seen this kind of thing before on any car I've ever had.

    --Mike
     
  18. G.Simpson

    G.Simpson Karting

    Mar 31, 2008
    103
    Alberta, Canada
    Full Name:
    Gary Simpson
  19. MarkJ

    MarkJ Formula Junior

    Sep 10, 2006
    729
    NW Arkansas
    Full Name:
    Mark Jones
    I once had a similar problem on a car I owned which also had an aluminum engine. The colder it was, the greater the flow of the leak. Eventually, I discovered it was a head gasget and the reason it leaked faster in colder weather was that the aluminum was contracting more, which in turn, caused the gap between the mating surfaces to become wider.
     
  20. fxdwgs

    fxdwgs Formula 3

    Aug 22, 2006
    1,016
    Sjobo, Sweden
    Full Name:
    Bengt
    Mine was leaking at no 19.......the water inlet.

    Just tighted the screw of the "ring" and no leak no more.

    Ta da.......

    //B//
     
  21. mj_duell

    mj_duell Formula 3

    Nov 20, 2004
    1,421
    S. Glastonbury, CT.
    Full Name:
    Mike
    Tried that, no difference. I heard from another member that their 355 has the same exact issue as my 348. The dealer told him "that the hoses can contract when very cold. The hose clamps will seem tight when the engine is hot." This would seem to make sense. I don't believe I have a head gasket or water neck seal issue, but the search goes on.

    --Mike
     
  22. FandLcars

    FandLcars F1 Rookie

    Aug 6, 2006
    3,057
    Tempe, Az
    Full Name:
    Rick Schumm
    Hi Mike, if you're not sure where the leak is coming from, you can get a Tracerline kit. These kits come with dye that you can add to your coolant which leaves a fluorescent residue that you can see with the included black light and glasses. Many of these kits come with dyes for oil, coolant, and freon. Hope this helps.
     
  23. Miltonian

    Miltonian F1 Veteran

    Dec 11, 2002
    5,966
    Milton, Wash.
    Full Name:
    Jeff B.
    I believe I have read here that it is quite possible to crack the water pump housing when pressing a new bearing in. Hope your problem can be fixed without pulling the engine. I would never consider putting Bars Leak into the system.
     
  24. G.Simpson

    G.Simpson Karting

    Mar 31, 2008
    103
    Alberta, Canada
    Full Name:
    Gary Simpson
    I have been having the identical issue with my 355. Today I pressure tested the system while the car was cold. Ambient temp was about 4 C or about 38 F. Pressure held at 14.5 psi for about 10 minutes with no pressure drop at all, and no leaks. I put some fresh spill pads under the front of motor and will check it again tomorrow. If all holds true as before, there should be a few fresh drops of coolant on the spill pads. I plan on checking all the hose clamps in the area near the water pump, which means removing/setting aside the cover, the power steering reservoir and a couple of the fuel lines. I will let everyone know what I find.
    Gary
     
  25. mj_duell

    mj_duell Formula 3

    Nov 20, 2004
    1,421
    S. Glastonbury, CT.
    Full Name:
    Mike
    Hmmm.... Lets hope not. I do think that would have happened and been addressed before the last major, the water pump was not changed last time. Only going on event logic, I would rule that out. I think a Tracerline kit as FandLcars posted, will be the next course of action. I've ordered a borescope as well. This is getting interesting. I am really suprised that I haven't found the source yet. It could very well be the water pump, but I am going to try everything else first ;).

    --Mike
     

Share This Page