Electrical Advice needed for Radio Installation in 308 GT4

I gave up. I put the entire setup on ebay if anyone is interested. It sounded great fit under the seat but I could just not get rid of the ignition noise. It would be great for any later car not running solid core wires!!!!I know you guys wont believe me but I put in a set of NGK resitor plugs (BPR6ES). The plugs were gapped at .030”. When I went to start the car the tach and speedo started spinning wildly and the car would not start. I had a new set of non resistor plugs put those in and the car ran fine. Thanks for all your help and sorry I wasted so much of your time.

 

Well,

It turned out the subwoofer amp drained my battery somehow. I have one of those rare 308's that left alone for 6 months the battery still works. I thought the resistor plugs were causing the problem
but i replaced the plugs and the car would still not start. I hope the only thing I ruined was the battery. I spent around 96 hours working on this so I just could not give it any more. Greg was kind enough to
offer his help and a solution but by that time I was flummoxed to use a polite term! I still might need that filter as I may install a new stereo head, however my forays into experimental wiring on this old car is over!

I have not given up on more bass and left 2 stereo live wire behind the seats if I can get a small enough 6x9 speaker enclosure I can bypass the whole separate power amp battery hookup!

This is me without the robbery, guns, crashing, or any other illegal activity. Hey he's actually robbing my bank:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zmzTNuVa2MM&feature=related

Or here without the beer, the Barbara Streisand music, dirt road or one handed driving!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ItPo4j0l4Rc&feature=related

 

Friends,

So here is what i did. I sold the whole subwoofer system on ebay, which I regret as it sounded great (with my engine off) I then bought two SL95 Boston Acoustics 6X9' speakers, bought a set of carpeted boxes on ebay cut them down so that they would fit right behind my seats. I cut a slot in the enclosures for more bass and hooked them up in parallel with the 4" rear 2 way Alpine speakers. They sound great but because they are hooked up to the 4" speakers in my rear I cant add bass without breaking up the 4" speakers. I know that you can add capacitors to tweeters to make them reject bass frequency's. Is there a capacitor that i could hook up to the 4" 2 way speakers so that they would function as a mid and tweeter rejecting lower bass notes. That way the 6x9"'s can supply the bass and the 4"'s can supply the mid and highs sort of like a poor mans component speaker system?? I think this would make the system sound great. Thanks in advance for any help remember I am illiterate so explain in detail!

Rob
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I looked up a capacitor of that value on line and they are 7" long does that make sense. Is a capacitor the best way to do this?

Thanks for the help remember i was a drummer, so I did not have much electrical book lernin

Rob
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I am looking for a somewhat small crossover I can hook up to my rear 2 way 4" Alpine speakers

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_500SPS400/Alpine-SPS-400.html?search=alpine+4+speakers

so that I can turn up the bass on my 2 rear 6X9" Boston speakers without have the 4" speakers break up. GL suggested 600 hz. I am hoping that these two speakers at my rear ear level will supply the mids and highs while the 2 6x9"'s on the floor behind my seats can supply the bass and whatever highs can make it out of there. Once again I wish I had the $$ and expertise to put in a great sounding stereo but since i am limited also by the head unit I have, I am just trying to get a little more bass. Everything sounds great now except when i turn up the level or bass the rear 4" speakers start to break up. GCalo you have been way too patient with me and once again I cannot accept something for free. I would however like your advice on what I need. I noticed a small capacitor on the tweeter side of the 4" alpine I am assuming to filter out lower frequencies you need something more than that.

I am also trying not to do too much damage to my pretty original and award winning GT4. The PO had the 2 small black grill 4" front and rear speakers installed. I would have never cut the speaker holes in the front or rear replacing the factory perforations in the door leather. I was hoping someday I could have the door leather replaced and put a larger (6'?) speaker behind new perfs for bass and maybe a stealth tweeter in the place of the pop out manual window crank plug. Until then all I want is some bass! I will take a picture of the boxes I fixed up for the rears they are pretty trick and can be unplugged in 2 minutes for show time. In the band we had 18" Cerwin Vega speakers in folded horn cabinets with front firing 12" speakers. I really miss those cabinets I sold them when the band broke up

Thanks for all of your suggestions and help.
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As you know Ive been trying to tackle a better stereo in my 75 GT4
with mixed results. I have not found a CD player that would mount
vertically but have found a high power Kenwood
KDC-MP342U which has a USB port that I can plug a micro thumb drive in
that works great. I recently placed one in my driver a 1998 Isuzu
Rodeo. I am really happy with every aspect
of this head unit but know I will have to take out my center console
and do some cutting to make it fit.

Here is my question.. This unit needs to be turned off at the ignition or it will slowly sap the
battery (something that makes no sense to me). The
75 GT4 has several devices, antenna and radio which work all the time
and are independent of the ignition being on. Is there some way that
I can tie on to another fuse or set up some kind
of relay to make this happen. Remember this is not my area of
expertise, and I just spent 3 months with a small subwoofer which I
failed to get working and tossed the whole setup. I was
thinking of a toggle off on switch but thought something simpler that
I would not forget to switch off would be better. Any suggestion will
be highly appreciated.

I want to do what is safest for the car with the least amount of hassle and
modification.

here are a picture of the 6x9's I put behind my seats. I just installed some 6" 2 ways
in my from doors. I really did not want to do this but the PO already cut of the leather so I figured some day when I have the door panels redone....

So here is my plan

6" in the doors
6x9" behind the seats (cant even see them)
and the 4" in the rear will be mid/ highs

The real sticking point is the head unit it sounds like crap. I am wondering have any of you cut your console and mounted a vertical CD player
I think it is a DIN?

Rob
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Scott.

I am concerned about how I need to cut the console to slip in the metal bracket for the DIN unit. What was the name for the stock 2 knob unit? I wish I had the money to let you guys do this but I am pretty protective of this car like a child. If you can offer any insight I would be appreciative. I know my console has 2 holes and a cut out for the cassette hole. My concern is cutting the material of the console to the exact size and securing the unit. I could not fine one manufacturer whose CD units would play vertically so I ordered a Kenwood KDC-MP342U which I installed in my other car and it rocks, It has a USB flash drive so if the CD does not work oh well. I have a show car so there is only so much I want to do to it. Mounting the 6.5 Boston SL65's in the door was painful enough....

 

I still need some advice on how to hook this up so that it is turned off by my ignition instead of being on all the time. I received this info from Kenwood.

The current draw in standby is roughly 500 mA, when powered off (holding the SRC button down or by removing the faceplate) the current draw is less than 10mA, and when powered off by removing ACC the current draw is less than 2mA. Basically rewiring the vehicle is best.

I am confused as to what to do next, please excuse my ignorance.

Rob

 

Scott, Can you post a picture of that piggyback connector. I am familiar with the ignition switch as I have replaced it however i do not know which wire is which. Tapping in there wont cause a problem if the stereo shorts or overloads will it? This is a pretty powerful head unit with 4x22 watts RMS. Would I connect the yellow wire which in my kenwood diagram says is the memory wire I assume that works the clock and settings to the current wire supplying the unswitched power. BTW the figures quoted by Kenwood above is the 2Ma memory draw enough to drain the battery. My car has been one of the unusual Ferraris that even if sitting for 3 months the battery has never drained. I sure dont want to change that good behavior.

I can Thank you guys enough for all the help.......
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