Fan speed switch 90 TR | FerrariChat

Fan speed switch 90 TR

Discussion in 'Boxers/TR/M' started by Shemmer, Apr 28, 2009.

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  1. Shemmer

    Shemmer Formula Junior

    Jul 8, 2007
    623
    Toronto
    Full Name:
    Rob
    I think my heater / AC fan speed switch is done since it only works at the full on position. I took it apart and it's pretty much a completely electronic speed controller so either I try to have it repaired or just replace it. Anyone have a line on them or better to visit the local F-pimp?
     
  2. Spasso

    Spasso F1 World Champ

    Feb 16, 2003
    14,656
    The fabulous PNW
    Full Name:
    Han Solo
    #2 Spasso, Apr 28, 2009
    Last edited: Apr 28, 2009
    Here are some part numbers of the Speed Control Unit from Table 121.
    134128 Fan speed regulation unit. For conditioner PN 134131 - Until car No. 79903, This is an early style TR AC switch with 6 wires/6 pins and external fuse holder. (Later style switches have 4 pins/4 wires, pn: 140151). No price.
    131473 Fan speed regulation unit. For conditioner PN 60955900, used on Euro 1987 and US 1990. No price.

    140151 Fan speed regulation unit. Starting from car no. 79904, Later style switch with 4 pins/4 wires, pn: 140151, PRICE 429.61

    This item is used in the following applications:
    Vehicle--- Quantity--- Table---- Location--- Parts Diagram
    512TR ---- 1 --- 122 --- 25---- INSTRUMENTS AND PASSENGER COMPARTMENT ACCESSORIES
    Mondial t--- 1--- 151--- 14--- AIR CONDITION SET
    Testarossa----1--- 121--- 21--- INSTRUMENTS AND PASSENGER COMPARTMENT ACCESSORIES (FOR US VERSION)
    (1990)
     
  3. Shemmer

    Shemmer Formula Junior

    Jul 8, 2007
    623
    Toronto
    Full Name:
    Rob
    HO LEE COW!
    Excellent Spasso thanks.
    This forum really is incredible, it's guys like yourself that make it what it is.
     
  4. Spasso

    Spasso F1 World Champ

    Feb 16, 2003
    14,656
    The fabulous PNW
    Full Name:
    Han Solo
    Thanks, pulling together on this stuff is what makes ownership of these cars more rewarding (and affordable).

    Don't go to the Dealer for this stuff.
    It's easier and probably cheaper to get it from our forum sponsor like Ricambi.
    T.Rutlands may have a used one as well as GT Car Parts in AZ (516 W Lone Cactus Dr, Phoenix, AZ 85027 (623) 780-2200)
     
  5. Steve Magnusson

    Steve Magnusson Two Time F1 World Champ
    Lifetime Rossa

    Jan 11, 2001
    26,843
    30°30'40" N 97°35'41" W (Texas)
    Full Name:
    Steve Magnusson
    I wouldn't assume that this is the case just yet -- try replacing the power transistor first (mounted in the center air outlet if a mechanic hasn't moved it). If you do a search on "TR power transistor", you should get plenty of prior threads.
     
  6. Spasso

    Spasso F1 World Champ

    Feb 16, 2003
    14,656
    The fabulous PNW
    Full Name:
    Han Solo
    #6 Spasso, Apr 28, 2009
    Last edited: Apr 28, 2009
    Thank you, I had forgotten about that.
    For 1990
    Table 127 (Table 125 for 1987)
    P/N 127014, $103.02
    Labor to change it out , "One million dollars":(
     
  7. Shemmer

    Shemmer Formula Junior

    Jul 8, 2007
    623
    Toronto
    Full Name:
    Rob
    #7 Shemmer, May 3, 2009
    Last edited: May 3, 2009
    I nthink I might have a look at that today. Others have suggested the power transistor as well. I guess the console may have to come out to get to it right, or worst case the dash hence the one million dollars? LOL
    Thanks guys
     
  8. Spasso

    Spasso F1 World Champ

    Feb 16, 2003
    14,656
    The fabulous PNW
    Full Name:
    Han Solo
    Not sure what it takes to get it out but I heard it isn't fun. One fix I heard is to move it from the factory location closer to one of the vent outlets (or something like that) so it can be changed out in the future without tearing the whole car apart.
     
  9. Steve Magnusson

    Steve Magnusson Two Time F1 World Champ
    Lifetime Rossa

    Jan 11, 2001
    26,843
    30°30'40" N 97°35'41" W (Texas)
    Full Name:
    Steve Magnusson
    If your dash is unmodified, it shouldn't be that bad -- just requires pulling the center vent structure out (the panel beneath it should pivot open to allow you to release the clips).
     
  10. Shemmer

    Shemmer Formula Junior

    Jul 8, 2007
    623
    Toronto
    Full Name:
    Rob
    Thanks Steve and others, FYI I tackled it last night and located the power transistor, drilled out the rivets, pulled the terminals out of the connector and removed the assembly out of the center vent as you described. After examining the alluminium heat sink mounting plate I discovered that the small screw that mounts the transistor to the plate with the ground wire attached had a plastic isolation washer between the nut and the plate. As the transistor got hot, which is what it is designed to do, the plastic washer had melted slightly pushing the head of the screw up which no longer made ground contact to the top side of the transistor. I wasn't sure if damage had already been done to it because of the lo0se ground but after tightening it worked perfectly and back together it went.

    Thanks guys.
     
  11. Steve Magnusson

    Steve Magnusson Two Time F1 World Champ
    Lifetime Rossa

    Jan 11, 2001
    26,843
    30°30'40" N 97°35'41" W (Texas)
    Full Name:
    Steve Magnusson
    Glad to hear that you got it sorted without too much pain -- I'd say that you had the easiest fix so far ;)

    One thing that you can do to help prevent a future problem with the power transistor is avoid operating at 3/4~7/8 fan speed -- i.e., use any speed from minimum to ~1/2, but, for anything higher, go full speed. It's human nature IME to "turn it down just a little" as "maximum" never seems like a good idea, but, in this case, it's far better for reliability to run at maximum (which puts the large fan motor current thru the relay) rather than just below maximum (which puts the large fan motor current thru the power transistor).
     
  12. vincenzo

    vincenzo F1 Rookie

    Nov 2, 2003
    3,373
    Please clarify - is it correct that the leather panel hinges on the bottom and the top portion adjacent to the vent should tilt out and away from the dash? Just pull out at the top of the leather panel?

    The panel on my 1990 seemed pretty well 'fixed' in place - just want to be sure before I induce that dreaded snapping noise!

    Thanks to all,
    Vince
     
  13. Steve Magnusson

    Steve Magnusson Two Time F1 World Champ
    Lifetime Rossa

    Jan 11, 2001
    26,843
    30°30'40" N 97°35'41" W (Texas)
    Full Name:
    Steve Magnusson
    I wish I could. Mine was very poorly modified into a "fixed" mounting before I purchased it -- so you are right to be cautious IMO. I had to remove the knee pad brace below it to be able to remove that lower panel and replace my power transistor rivets.
     
  14. curtisc63

    curtisc63 Formula 3
    Owner

    Dec 13, 2005
    2,290
    Maryland
    Full Name:
    Curtis Campbell
    +1 The shelf had to come out of mine prior to me being able to get it to open.
     
  15. Spasso

    Spasso F1 World Champ

    Feb 16, 2003
    14,656
    The fabulous PNW
    Full Name:
    Han Solo
    Thanks for the clarification.
    Mine is still working correctly but nice to know for the future.
     
  16. Shemmer

    Shemmer Formula Junior

    Jul 8, 2007
    623
    Toronto
    Full Name:
    Rob
    The brown leather panel below the center vent on my 1990 had a screw on either side underneath. Once they are removed the panel easily pops out then a spring tab on either bottom corners of the vent need to be pushed up in order to release the vent so it can be pulled out. Once out you can feel the power transistor plate down in and to the right.
     
  17. vincenzo

    vincenzo F1 Rookie

    Nov 2, 2003
    3,373
    Thanks for all the input!
     

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